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Old 07-10-2019, 12:04 PM
The Brad's Avatar
The Brad The Brad is offline
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Originally Posted by KCTurbos View Post
Unfortunately that is not a realistic expectation. EGTs on the dyno are typically not even close to the street. Kinda like testing how much boost your truck makes by revving it in park?

The dyno run will last 3-7seconds depending on the load. It is hard to gets egts up very high during a run that short... compared to pulling a 20k trailer up a hill for 10 min.

I can tell you on a tow tune on the dyno the truck has a hard time breaking 900-1100egts no matter what the combo is on the turbo/inj...
Not unrealistic at all! With the right dyno, you can simulate different loads and driving conditions while changing nozzles, tuning and turbo configurations.

Iím sure thatís not in your budget and do appreciate the time, money and efforts youíre putting into all of this testing.
2000 CCSB 4x4, 6in lift, 315/75-16, Joe Shmoe built 4r100, 3.73, 200/80s, CSD T4 SXE364.5/74/.91, Comp 910's shimmed, Smith Bros push rods, live tuned, Riffraff boots and plenum insterts, FRx, 6.0 Trans cooler.
Old 07-10-2019, 01:31 PM
KCTurbos KCTurbos is offline
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Originally Posted by The Brad View Post
Not unrealistic at all! With the right dyno, you can simulate different loads and driving conditions while changing nozzles, tuning and turbo configurations.

I’m sure that’s not in your budget and do appreciate the time, money and efforts you’re putting into all of this testing.
Not sure how often you spend time on the dyno... but I do it for a living and have traveled all over the country using different dynos. You cannot hold a vehicle simulating a heavy trailer for minutes at a time with the amount of hp/tq we are working with. Not possible.

Not saying you can check hp/tq on the dyno. But simulating a 10min pull with a 20k trailer to see what kind of egts you are going to see just won't work.

Standard tow tune on the dyno won't crack 900-1100 because you can't load the dyno hard enough or long enough. Boost/ebp is also typically lower on the dyno than the street. Measuring setups for realistic towing egts EGTs using a dyno is just not gonna happen

Last edited by KCTurbos; 07-10-2019 at 01:39 PM.
Old 07-10-2019, 02:56 PM
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BS Hauler BS Hauler is offline
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Thanks KC. I watch these dyno pulls and these guys that brag about the hp they make and all I think is for what maybe 1 or 2 seconds. That doesn't mean sht to the guy out on the road pulling loads and actually using their truck. You know how we dyno Ag tractors. We start at wide open and pull them down to see what they can make for hp.. Lets try that with some of these trucks and see what happens. Because that is how they are run with a trailer on them on the road in the working environment.
2002 F-350 DRW 4x4 6 spd CCLB
2006 F-350 CCSB Auto 4wd
Old Yesterday, 01:12 AM
INFRNL INFRNL is offline
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Thanks for all the testing you are doing.

I had some things i wanted to mention as i read all 20 pages, but have lost some of my thoughts.

I want to say that many of you that live near sea level or low elevations and in humid climates have it made compared to some of us. I live in Colorado at around 6500' with practically no humidity....very little air here, so we struggle with high egt's among other things.

Many people seem to get caught up in boost numbers as well, from my experience; that doesn't mean everything. Here in Colorado we won't see the boost numbers that others see either. I hear people say what they can hit for boost on the same setups as me and that's just not possible here.

To me, I chose to go the T4 route just so turbo swaps would be cheaper and there are more options (in theory) not because it's a better setup, etc. The best my truck has ever been was with the stock setup and aftermarket turbo.
As long as everything is in order, there is nothing wrong with the stock setup. as far as egt's issues go, a lot has to do with the tuner.

my first chip was a dp tuner. power was good as was economy but I always had egt issues. This was on stock injectors. I couldn't even run a qtr mile without sky high temps. I checked everything over and over for leaks. only found some very minor leaks from the plenums and fixed them but no change in egt's.
I eventually decided to try php tunes. still had egt issues but they were a lot better than what I had with Dp tuner. I also like the tuning of php tons better. I knew something was wrong but I could never find it. Almost gave up, then one day i took everything apart and took extra care to make sure everything was just right. You couldn't see it with the naked eye, but the fitting from the turbo to the down pipe was not quite seated right. Got that fixed and egt's were never an issue. I could run WOT to 100mph fully floored and not break 1250.
Everyone on the forums seemed to think that my egt's were normal, but i always felt that they were way off.
I know someone here mentioned egt's being an issue with stock injectors. I'm just saying there could be a minor leak somewhere that's been overlooked causing the problem, or it could be in the tuning.

as far as t4 turbos go, I'm waiting for the 366 comparisons especially on larger injectors. I agree that the 369sxe is more for play and I am considering the 366sxe but feel it may not be a good enough improvement, at least in my case.
when I ran the stock setup with aftermarket turbo, I had pretty much zero lag. Ever since i switched to a t4 setup i have had a bunch of lag. Granted I now have 250/100 injectors, I started with a pius LASb which i believe was before the BASB. it's not supposed to have lag supposedly but it does. Now I am running the 369SXE per recommendation from Dusty. It's actually supposed to go on my project which will be running 250/100 and zf6.
The 369 moves a bit more air than the LASB, has more boost, more lag, but SOTP feel is not much more compared to the smaller LASB. Either setup, I always have to watch my EGT's no matter what tune I'm running. Some of egt's I can understand being the larger injectors. I have not done any actual testing, but i have learned some ways to deal with the lag and egt's but trying to drive this way is inconsistent.

I can see where the 364.5 and 366 would be better candidates for towing and general daily driving. I plan to get the 366 to try in comparison to my 369. Maybe I just need some live tuning. I think i definitely want the 366 for my zf6 though as I want to minimize lag, especially when shifting. I don't drive a whole lot, nor do I to a lot but I do tow up to 15k on occasion but also like having as much power as possible that my pmr's can handle for the fun times. I haven't been on a dyno, but I should be around the 500 pony mark from what Bill told me years ago with my initial setup.
If I am really near 500, it's fun and i probably don't need it, but sometimes even more might be more fun. In reality stock injectors or something like what being tested would have been fine.
almost forgot, Probably the only one as i have asked others in the past; but ever since i switched to t4 and 250/100 injectors, my fuel economy has dropped 1-2mpg.
stock injectors, php tunes and aftermarket drop in turbo I was getting 14-15 in town. now I only get 12-13. I talked to people in the past and they said they were getting the same mileage when they switch to similar injectors and even slightly better on hwy mileage. who knows, luckily i don't drive my truck a ton and i grew up on crappy fuel mileage.

Last edited by INFRNL; Yesterday at 01:15 AM.
Old Yesterday, 08:28 PM
cjfarm111 cjfarm111 is offline
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Who’s injectors? And how is your icp?
Old Today, 12:22 PM
INFRNL INFRNL is offline
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My injectors are FFD, both sets. I can't remember when I last monitored icp, but it used to be fine. It would push 2800-3200. I know i was recently looking at pw, so i might have had that along with icp. Trying to remember where i put my edge , i can probably get some fresh data.

Another thing i forgot to mention is now i see more people talking about hazing at idle. Back when I first got my 250/100's i mentioned my hazing issues but don't recall anyone having the same issue. Now it seems many people have similar symptoms but mine are a bit worse.
Even right now during summer at first startup , sometimes I get a slight haze. During colder days, you don't want to be around my truck. When it's cold out, my truck will haze with fumes that make your eyes water for as long as the truck is sitting idling. I have to drive it for a while before it clears. Sometimes even when it clears, it will still have a slight haze when parked or idling at a light. I have had a couple people try to resolve it but no luck. My latest tunes from 1023 and gh seem to be a tiny bit better but we will see when winter starts to set in. It's embarrassing. My truck has no issues on stock injectors.

I recently put in my new ffd 250/100s in for comparison. They still haze too. Also my new injectors don't feel the same power wise. They don't throw you back like my originals do. Seem like they have less a55 to them.

I've been really busy, so i haven't looked into anything. I have lived with the hazing, but has driven me nuts every winter.

Done rambling for now

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