mikeeg02
New member
Yea, to keep vacuum in the block, and keep most oil from returning into the turbo
CCV catch can location
- Thread starter psdguy95
- Start date
The Brad
New member
The Brad
New member
Based on their sizing, the 200 model is good for 250kw (335hp), I’d go with the 400 model which will handle over 600hp.
Attachments
Plzstrokeme
Member
I have the 200 model and it works fine. I assume the 400 model is huge and would be pretty hard to find a place to mount it.
Garbage_Mechanic
Member
Peroni has a nice write up on his with pics. I used his basic layout but didn't have access to a beautifully machined bracket to mount it to the IDM so I used a nice aluminum plate attached to the two holes originally used for a gasser or IDI cruise control, puts it in the corner in front of the IDM with nice hose runs.
I tried a ProVent 200 ($160). It removed about 80 percent of the oil, required draining and discarding the oil AND increased crankcase pressure. I sold it after I checked the difference with my manometer.
I welded a ss tube into the bottom half of my Diamond Eye down pipe. No smells, no drips and no more bs.
I welded a ss tube into the bottom half of my Diamond Eye down pipe. No smells, no drips and no more bs.
ja_cain
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2013
- Messages
- 4,597
- Reaction score
- 2
The only thing I would be worried about is the vapors condensing in the tube to the down pipe. Might be a non issue since there should be plenty of heat coming off the back of the motor to keep this from happening. Also, might want to incorporate an opening with a filter in the filler cap to keep from creating a vacuum in the crankcase. Otoh, routing it to the intake might have the same effect sense you are still creating the venturi effect. This might negate some of this since it is routed to the intake though. Need to think on that a bit more.
Those are all good points.
I removed the ccv doghouse and welded a fitting in when doing the injectors. I routed the hose up over the engine along with the other hoses and wires, then down along the passenger side fender liner. I welded the tube in right after the bottom bend in the down pipe. I checked, the entire area around the hose rout is always warm, as soon as the engine is warm. I made sure their are no "bellies", where condensation could collect and freeze when the engine is not running for long periods. I have no concern for freezing condensation here in NE Wisconsin.
The snow melted over the weekend, so I will throw a couple of pics up today.
As for creating a vacuum, I didn't create a venture. I welded the tube flush with the wall of the down pipe at a 45. I had my son start it and run up the rpms while I had my thumb on the ccv end of the hose. I could feel no vacuum. I could have hooked my manometer to it, but that's good enough for me and an old engine designed for delivering kids, boxes and things.
Side note:
My oil pan weeps slightly from the passenger rear corner. Eliminating the catch can (ProVent 200), cut the amount of leakage about half.
I removed the ccv doghouse and welded a fitting in when doing the injectors. I routed the hose up over the engine along with the other hoses and wires, then down along the passenger side fender liner. I welded the tube in right after the bottom bend in the down pipe. I checked, the entire area around the hose rout is always warm, as soon as the engine is warm. I made sure their are no "bellies", where condensation could collect and freeze when the engine is not running for long periods. I have no concern for freezing condensation here in NE Wisconsin.
The snow melted over the weekend, so I will throw a couple of pics up today.
As for creating a vacuum, I didn't create a venture. I welded the tube flush with the wall of the down pipe at a 45. I had my son start it and run up the rpms while I had my thumb on the ccv end of the hose. I could feel no vacuum. I could have hooked my manometer to it, but that's good enough for me and an old engine designed for delivering kids, boxes and things.
Side note:
My oil pan weeps slightly from the passenger rear corner. Eliminating the catch can (ProVent 200), cut the amount of leakage about half.
Last edited:
sootie
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2012
- Messages
- 11,854
- Reaction score
- 29
Bad idea. The crankcase will never make enough pressure to overcome the cross flow of the exhaust in the downpipe. You have effectively blocked your ccv.
That is just opinion and is wrong. It's been working since September. Last year I built a crank case pressure tester, basically a Ford knock off. Hooked my manometer to it after my vent to exhaust mod. All is good, I'm not concerned. The sky is not falling.
You will hear no more form me.
Disclaimer:
I'm an old engineer. If anything I say or do frightens any of you? DON'T TRY ANYTHING I SAY OR DO AT HOME!
You will hear no more form me.
Disclaimer:
I'm an old engineer. If anything I say or do frightens any of you? DON'T TRY ANYTHING I SAY OR DO AT HOME!
sootie
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2012
- Messages
- 11,854
- Reaction score
- 29
Testing at idle shows very little. Load and rpm changes results drastically. Maybe you did live data testing and can prove me wrong.
It was 26 degrees this morning and no problems. I have put over 1000 miles on since I vented to exhaust; grandpa driving, a few rollons and about 650 miles pulling the camper. Not one issue.
IT F**KEN WORKS!
I will reiterate one important point. Make sure their are no "bellies" in the hose route where condensation might collect? Bellies are not possible if you route over the engine and down to the bottom of the down pipe. Frankly, I believe this is a mute issue since the hot crank case vapors will carry any condensate out of the hose and into the exhaust.
On a side note; this thread did teach me something. I knew some people are aural learners and some are visual learners. I learned that their are also a few who require a hole drilled and knowledge poured in.
Have a good evening from the Lake Wobegon area.
