New from BC Canada 06 F350 6.0l looking for help

Ray Steel

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Hey all,

I have a06 F350 that has been sitting for awhile now. Had the egr done but Im thinking it needs new head studs. Im looking to add some hp and wondering whats the best way to go about this, Im new so type slow ;-)

I see APR has studs for thew 6.0l, is there a threshold I need to hit on my build to get the higher tensil?? or is the 220,000 good enough for the avg guy/build?

Anyway Im looking to finally spend some $$$ on this truck and Ive had it since new so I owe it this at the least....whos got some good ideas to add hp without going to crazy. Im going to pull the cab off in the next coming weeks so its time to plan and prep now.

Thanks all.
 

Decker

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Arp are fine for the average build. Depends on your goals a d how much you looking to spend. But Since you in there can go with better springs and rods. Though start with the basics - intake exhaust tuner and go from there. Fuel pump, regulated return, ported intake injectors, turbo.
Get a way to monitor your temps and egt and fuel pressure you will be set.
 

RoadWarrior

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Hey Ray, Welcome to the site!

Arp will do just fine. As Decker said, if you are going to dive in and do studs, I would upgrade the springs and pushrods. Also, I would recommend upgrading the lifters as well. That will insure you wont have any valve train issues. Then the list goes on.....

Oil cooler upgrade
Fuel pump
regulated return
Turbo
Tuner
Intake and exhaust
Gauges or some way to monitor temps, fuel pressure, etc

It all just depends on your hp goal.
Hope this helps!
 

Ray Steel

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Thanks guys, I am thinking not going to crazy so sticking around 600hp or so, I dont want to add a 2nd mortgage either on having a little fun with upgrades so if I was to stick around the 600 hp arp would be fine or should I look at something else? Where does a guy find some good pricing on the gear I will be needing?
 

Decker

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At 600 HP your gonna need all said above done with at least 190/75 or set of 205s with large non vgt or stage 3 vgt. Then include a trans because it will most likely not last long. But ARP would be fine. But for pricing look at vendors here they should be able to set you up.
 

DEEZUZ

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I wouldnt bother pulling the cab.

to change the lifters, which you SHOULD be doing, the rear cover has to come off. You can do it in frame, cab off, but why fight it with having to drop trans with cab off.

Yank her out the front, install OE lifters, quality prep job on deck, send heads out for flatness, crack checking, AND valve guide inspection, use quality gaskets.
 

Ray Steel

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Thanks CTC, so instead of pulling the cab off you think its wiser to pull off the front end and pull it forward? Ive been contemplating which way to go and I thought since I have a excavator to can easily pick off the cab that would be the way to go but if the trans has to be dropped which I didnt think of then yank it out the front would be easier?

Also anything specific brand as far as lifters/rods/springs/gaskets or any sort of specs for these? Again I am new so trying to absorb and understand all this quickly.
 

DEEZUZ

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I haven't pulled a cab in a long time. The only time I do is when customer denies lifters. Which is rare since I can usually sell them on it since they are the absolute Achilles heel of these motors.

ARP for studs, I stick with oe pushrods, which I think super cede to same part number as 6.4. check with sunrise Ford on here for all oe gaskets/parts. Head gaskets are Victor reinz.

And if you're serious about that much power, I'd invest in rod bolts. I personally think 450hp is plenty and reliable.
 

Ray Steel

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450hp might be a better option....how long do you think it would take 3 newbie's to take it out the front? I have no idea, I was told expect 7 hrs for the cab to come off. Thanks for this info I will be looking into your recommendations.
 

DEEZUZ

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Hard to judge other people but this took me 3 hrs. Pistons were still hot. LOL

3h8TWsj.jpg
 

sootie

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Going slow, for the first time, with beer breaks-took less than 3 hours
 

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