Dana 60 at last

13fist

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2018
Messages
131
Reaction score
12
Location
MT
Finally got myself an '06 front axle. I'm pretty excited about this project. I've been putting it off for too long. Going to be taking my time cleaning it up and rebuilding it. I'll try to get pics as I go along.

Any downsides to having a truetrac up front? I installed one in the rear a few years ago and love it. Inside my head it sounds like a good idea.

Once it's ready to install, I'm thinking 4 link. But whats up with this track bar? I'd like to fab up something to do away with the ball joint here. Education on getting the geometry correct to do this would be a big help.

Need schooling on coil springs. What is a good coil spring?

Thanks!
 

Connor M

Youtube Certified Master Technician
Joined
Oct 12, 2016
Messages
693
Reaction score
6
Location
Masshole
Unless you have a real special reason for getting rid of the ball joint I just keep it for an on road truck ball joints are much better than heims. Heims squeak and they’re overkill for a street truck.
 

13fist

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2018
Messages
131
Reaction score
12
Location
MT
I disagree on hiems. I've had the PMF track bar for years now and never heard anything. if it was compatible with the new axle, I'd keep it.
The solution doesn't have to be hiems joints, just not a balljoint.

Sent using Tapatalk
 

Lt.Dan

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
421
Reaction score
1
Location
Visalia, CA
Been running heims with no noise. A good quality heim that is kept clean and lubed should not make noise.

I hate ball joints too...
 

13fist

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2018
Messages
131
Reaction score
12
Location
MT
I would really like to never ever have this fight again.

trackbarbj.jpg


This one Ball joint took the crown as worst ever.

On a good note, this axle looks great on the inside.

diff.jpg


Going through the tearing down and cleaning process. I found 1 inch lift pucks under the spring mounts. None of the seals appear to have been compromised.
 

Lt.Dan

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2015
Messages
421
Reaction score
1
Location
Visalia, CA
Ball joints on these d60s are a bear. I broke a vice AND ball joint installer/removal tool on my 02' D60, I cursed at it for 2 days!
 

13fist

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2018
Messages
131
Reaction score
12
Location
MT
Can anyone tell me about the differences in the 10.5 between 01 and the 05+ years? Specifically the caliper brackets and the mounting bolt spacing. It looks like swapping hubs would work.
What I can't find out is will I need to change the anchor plates to install the bigger brakes. Not sure it matters as i can't find part numbers for the anchor plates anyway.
Hoping to get the correct backspacing without resorting to spacers. Fabricobble may be necessary.

Parts are gradually coming in for the D60. I missed a few minor things like caliper bracket mounting bolts that I need to order.

Decided to go with the truetrac. Shimming that thing is a pain. Made setup bearings and all that, but getting it in and out of the center section while trying to hold the races on is a finger eater.
While doing this I noticed it looks like I messed up installing one of the inner seals. Not sure how, but a sliver of rubber was loose between the inner & outer part. Like it was pinched off.

I also chose to treat myself to RCV axle shafts. Since I'm keeping this rig forever, other than cost, I could see no down side.
Those should be here Friday. I am a bit excited about the ability to steer in 4wd without binding ujoints.:rockon:
 

Addicted4

New member
Joined
Jul 28, 2012
Messages
685
Reaction score
1
Why aren’t you just swapping the rear axle to a newer one for the width and brakes?? Also rcv axles are great for an off-road application but a set of 1550 u-joints and axles would give you more strength over stock and turning at a 1/10 the cost. Never had an issue with u joints binding while turning just saying.
 

13fist

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2018
Messages
131
Reaction score
12
Location
MT
I've done 1550s before, they are beefy, but absolutely bind like all ujoints do. RCV is pricey, but other than that, I can't find a single reason not to.

as for the rear. I already have it built up like I want. The width of the newer axles is from the wheel flange being further out on the hubs. every thing else is the same. I just can't find info on the brakes.
I guess I'll get a cheap brake from a box store and do a mock up.
much easier to swap the outer parts than deal with a whole axle imho.


Sent using Tapatalk
 

13fist

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2018
Messages
131
Reaction score
12
Location
MT
atlast1.jpg


I'm finally getting it done. she should be drivable tomorrow. All that's left is the drag link and master cylinder swap.
I need to adjust the links for caster an axle location. I could be wrong but it looks about 1-1.5 inches too far back. The tops of the sway bar links are leaning forward too much for my liking. Priority was get it done, then adjust.

Shout out to PMF for the quality parts. The 4 link is beefy. the spring buckets are beefy. Seriously I could dub Ministry "Jesus built my hot rod" to "PMF built my truck". Will always be my first stop for this kind of thing.

Very special thanks to Baja customs for the tracinator. I researched every option on the market. Being a fair hand at dipping tungsten, I strongly evaluated going DIY. In the end the tracinator won. Glad I went this route.

Anyone in MT want a D50? only 375k on it :D
 

ComVet42

New member
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Any chance you can take more pictures of the whole setup?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

13fist

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2018
Messages
131
Reaction score
12
Location
MT
I'm trying to organize the pics and information.
kinda kicking myself in the backside. I forgot the front drive shaft is too long to use with the D60.
I'll need to shorten it about 2 inches from the looks of it.
 

13fist

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2018
Messages
131
Reaction score
12
Location
MT
A few more pics. I'm going to have to retake a bunch as the originals taken during the project got lost in the sauce.
Between work and returning wrong parts multiple times, this entire project took 15 times longer than it should have.
Couple shots from below.
ds4link.jpg

ps4link.jpg


For the rear axle I did things a bit differently. I rebuilt my rear not long ago, bearings, seals, truetrac, etc.. everything except the parking brakes.
I really did not want to do it all over again if I did not have too. The axle shafts for the 10.5 are the same. I cannot speak for the '08-up.
but the '05-'07 is the same width as the 99-04. The wider stance is all in the hubs.

Here is a shot of the rear being mocked up with the '06 caliper bracket.
Bolt spacing and alignment is the same, just need to ream out the anchor plates to fit the 16mm bolts. As seen here, it's just resting on the old bolts.
rearbrkmockup1.jpg

rearbrkmockup2.jpg

Chasing it out with a 5/8 bit barely takes a shave off the ID, and the new larger bolts are a slip fit.
And here is the extra width with fresh paint, shoes, and springs.
rearbrknewhub.jpg

The parking brake kit I got from ford almost nothing looked like the old parts other than the shoes. Quite the puzzle first time around, but it seems to work.


On the front end, PMF shock towers are just wow. One thing to note is the shocks sit a good bit back away from the spring at the top compare to the bottom. I'm guessing this is to allow for larger shock bodies.
there is a noticeable slant.
shockslant1.jpg

I'm still reusing the old shocks for the time being. Fox makes a great shock, but these are valved for leafs and it shows. Leaning toward bilstein 5165's.
I'm thinking these bits from ruffstuff will work to even out the spacing.
shockslant3.jpg


It wont take much to fit these up and Tig them on.
Added bonus of better access to the lower shock hardware.
Not a fan of the fiddly hidden nut that ford uses down here.
shockslant2.jpg


Took a chance on the Long arm 4 link. I was 90% sure it would fit. The frame mounts did require trimming the trans crossmember.
tcm4link.jpg


Both front and back sides on the crossmemeber needed about 3/8 - 1/2 removed. the variance is in the lap joint and how much overhang there is.
transcmcut.jpg


I've got about 600 miles on so far. about half of that is just daily commute.
Could not be happier with a truetrac in both ends and the RCV shafts up front.
4WD is buttery smooth turning lock to lock, and she just pushes and climbs over everything.
 

13fist

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2018
Messages
131
Reaction score
12
Location
MT
A few more terrible pics. I tried to get the baja customs tracinator in better detail.
orange boot goodness
frontcenter.jpg


I don't think track bar & draglink could be more "on the same plane" than this.
frontleft.jpg


No bump steer, no wobble, no shimmy. NO BALLJOINT!! :D
frontright.jpg


I don't have steering stabilizers yet and she handles better than to old setup did with a dual stabilizer.

Drag link & Tie rod will get swapped with PMF... eventually.
 

13fist

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2018
Messages
131
Reaction score
12
Location
MT
Well just spent half a day trying to help a buddy do the swap on his 2001 f250 and the rear brake swap didn't line up. Not sure whats up.
The caliper bracket lines up with the bolt holes, but not the rotor.
Fortunately, we were doing a mock up and the only loss was a hub seal. We were both certain all the 10.5s were the same.
 

lincolnlocker

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
27,824
Reaction score
134
Location
Central Michigan
A few more terrible pics. I tried to get the baja customs tracinator in better detail.

orange boot goodness

frontcenter.jpg




I don't think track bar & draglink could be more "on the same plane" than this.

frontleft.jpg




No bump steer, no wobble, no shimmy. NO BALLJOINT!! :D

frontright.jpg




I don't have steering stabilizers yet and she handles better than to old setup did with a dual stabilizer.



Drag link & Tie rod will get swapped with PMF... eventually.
What track bar setup is that?

live life full throttle
 

rescuejg

Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2020
Messages
44
Reaction score
2
On the front end, PMF shock towers are just wow. One thing to note is the shocks sit a good bit back away from the spring at the top compare to the bottom. I'm guessing this is to allow for larger shock bodies.
there is a noticeable slant.
shockslant1.jpg

I'm still reusing the old shocks for the time being. Fox makes a great shock, but these are valved for leafs and it shows. Leaning toward bilstein 5165's.
I'm thinking these bits from ruffstuff will work to even out the spacing.
shockslant3.jpg


It wont take much to fit these up and Tig them on.
Added bonus of better access to the lower shock hardware.
Not a fan of the fiddly hidden nut that ford uses down here.
shockslant2.jpg


.


Do you have any more details and pics of what you did to the lower shock mount?

And what parts from Ruff Stuff that you used.

Thanks
 

13fist

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2018
Messages
131
Reaction score
12
Location
MT
I haven't had the time to do this yet. It still annoys me every time I see the shocks. I've just been too busy fixing planes.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/SBSIDEMT.html

I was planning on narrowing the stock mounts so these would slip over, then run a pass all around. The shock bolt would go through the original hole, putting the nut where the shock used to be.

In my mind, this should work.
 

rescuejg

Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2020
Messages
44
Reaction score
2
13fist,

Were there any instructions with the PMF parts, such as the front spring towers?
 

Latest posts

Members online

Top