what luck

I was given a 98 7.3 long block, bad comp, lots of blow by. It was pulled and replaced with a ford crate.

Guess I'll spend the next year building a forged motor !

Bored over , (what ever machine work it needs)
Mahle piston rebuild Kit
cryo forged rods ( I got forged rods = )
ARP s through out
Comp 910s
Hand polished heads
Fire ringed
Someones push rods
I seen a 500$ girdle on here somewhere ?
Farmer 160/100
irate kit S472 ? S372 ? S366 ????????
T500

be a good starting list.....

under pressure said:

Bored over , (what ever machine work it needs)
Mahle piston rebuild Kit
cryo forged rods ( I got forged rods = )
ARP s through out
Comp 910s
Hand polished heads
Fire ringed
Someones push rods
I seen a 500$ girdle on here somewhere ?
Farmer 160/100
irate kit S472 ? S372 ? S366 ????????
T500

be a good starting list.....

Click to expand...

S468 and you don't need a fire ringed head.

:whs:

All that work and you're only going with 160/100s? Why not 250/100s?

considering a cam?

Cloverleaffarm said:

considering a cam?

Click to expand...

No, not really, I'll take a look though.

The goal here is reliable and strong, I'm happy just getting away from the pmr's.
I dont tow anything anymore which is why I bought it.
Im not into drag racing, we're having our first all Diesel Dyno Day tomorrow that I put together, and hoping to put a sled pulling event next year as well as 2 more dyno days.
We rarely have performance Diesel events, when we do its drag racing.

So thanks for any and all input.


"quote" All that work and you're only going with 160/100s? Why not 250/100s?

I was going to run 160s in the currently motor, and I've seen respectable numbers out of them.
Its not in stone, but with the rite turbo and tune sounds strong and reliable.

For 160's?

Rebuild it, studs and spings and throw it in...

Fire rings? Come on man...

If going with 160/100's I would stay with a 366. If you have plans on going bigger than consider a larger charger. But if that is what your going to run than you will have better drive ability with the 366.

38r over an s366 all day long...

CSIPSD said:

For 160's?

Rebuild it, studs and spings and throw it in...

Fire rings? Come on man...

Click to expand...

I was thinking the same. A lot of work and $$$ just for those injectors

Build the piss out of the bottom end but skimp on injectors? Wtf

Groomzybanshee said:

38r over an s366 all day long...

Click to expand...

No gate, go with a 38r if you have a gate save your money and rock a 366

Lang said:

I was thinking the same. A lot of work and $$$ just for those injectors

Click to expand...

just me, I currently don't see the need for more fuel, my goal is small compared to most.
I just want it to hold together. I haven't done anything bigger thus far as I don't enjoy playing with fire. I'd rather overbuild now than deal with something later.
Will see what it turns into as it goes together.

I'm leaning on the 366
-and if I build now, I can go big later.

under pressure said:

I'm leaning on the 366
-and if I build now, I can go big later.

Click to expand...

There is a reason why so many people go with a 366 and not to mention the ease of the T4 footprint. Just be sure to use a gate and you'll be more than happy with it.

IMHO, save yourself some time and just have some 250s detuned if you don't want the power. They'll be less oil hungry than the 160s to make equal power (way less) and need less/ about the same when turned up. L

sent by the beard

Not to mention if you crave more power you just get em turned up with a tune. Easy peasy

sent by the beard

Why do fire rings if you don't need to and take the risk of them leaking later on

Buffalo444 said:

IMHO, save yourself some time and just have some 250s detuned if you don't want the power. They'll be less oil hungry than the 160s to make equal power (way less) and need less/ about the same when turned up. L

sent by the beard

Click to expand...

Learn something new every day ! Less oil is good.