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Old 02-14-2017, 04:49 PM
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Ive been tossing around the idea of swapping out my 6.0 for a 5.9 or 6.7 common rail. What is the preferred engine between the 2 engines and if I go the 6.7 route can the exhaust brake be made to work? Also how well does the 5r trans do behind it or is it still better to do a 4r swap? Im not looking for any crazy horse power so keep that in mind, im thinking 450-475 rwhp MAX as this will be going in my 450 that just tows all the time. What is the average total cost that some of you guys have spent doing this yourself? I kinda have an idea what all the major destroked stuff will cost but the smaller stuff i have no clue what all is needed or what a used engine is bringing these days.
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Old 02-14-2017, 05:09 PM
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I put a 5.9 cr in my buddy's truck with a built 4r and a 6.7 in mine with a 4r. Both trucks ran extremely good and had a pcs for trans control. I'm biased towards the 6.7, spooled better and had more low end IMO. The big cost was finding a good engine. I went completely through mine where we kept his bottom end untouched. Most all the little misc stuff was just hoses and fittings that I sourced from my local hardware store. Back then you couldn't keep cruise control but you can now days so that's a plus. I just bought another 6.7 a while back for my dad's Mack truck project and got it for 3500 with 50k on it. I got a good deal but normally I see them around 5k ish.
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  #3  
Old 02-14-2017, 08:18 PM
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I wouldn't bother with a 4R, just do the 48RE and you wont have to get the adapters.
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Old 02-15-2017, 10:12 AM
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I'm curious as to why you want to do this? Tired of 6.0 issues or reliability? I have no problems with the swap I'm just curious.
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Old 02-16-2017, 12:20 PM
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The biggest thing so far is i cant figure why the coolant temp spikes when accelerating or climbing big hills loaded. It spikes enough that it pukes and then when the fan finally kicks on the temp just drops to 200-205 until the fan shuts off. Then goes back up to 220, maintains there and waits for the next hill. Pisses me off, theres no damn reason that this thing should run down the road at 220 loaded and 190 empty. I want it to be able to sit at 205-210 all the time. Ive swapped radiators, thermostats, clutches multiple times, different tuning even stock tuning. It does the same crap even if its 30* outside or a 100*.
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Old 02-16-2017, 12:37 PM
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Could be a clogged cooler causing it. If the coolant can't circulate are decent rate, when it's under load temps are going to climb.


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Old 02-16-2017, 12:39 PM
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what are the oil/coolant deltas? Could you try replacing the oil cooler with a Ford one?
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:44 AM
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The engine is only a year old, ford oil cooler. I havent checked the delta in awhile, but all summer it good. I towed with it last night, never saw temps above 210. Maybe i just got several ****ty fan clutches or could have been the snow plow package clutch did the trick.
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Old 02-17-2017, 11:31 AM
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It sounds like tuning has come a long ways with the 5r using an sct. I believe some guys have actually got the BD tapshifter to work as well.
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Old 02-22-2017, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Short Bus View Post
The biggest thing so far is i cant figure why the coolant temp spikes when accelerating or climbing big hills loaded. It spikes enough that it pukes and then when the fan finally kicks on the temp just drops to 200-205 until the fan shuts off. Then goes back up to 220, maintains there and waits for the next hill. Pisses me off, theres no damn reason that this thing should run down the road at 220 loaded and 190 empty. I want it to be able to sit at 205-210 all the time. Ive swapped radiators, thermostats, clutches multiple times, different tuning even stock tuning. It does the same crap even if its 30* outside or a 100*.
Sounds like you lost your water pump impeller...
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