Evans waterless coolant

CAT35niner · Mar 3, 2014

No prob. Just remember to flush the system out with distilled water and drain the block and back flush the heater core. Get all the coolant out before you put it in. Don't want to contaminate this stuff at that price. When you drill the hole in your cap the remaining water will boil and evaporate out of the system. Just keep adding til the level stops going down. Then your good. It took mine a couple days to find a happy level.

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Fordtrucks · Mar 3, 2014

Ooh nice, thanks again!

CAT35niner · Mar 3, 2014

Anytime. Glad I could help out.

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njjeep · Mar 3, 2014

Here is a thread I found from a couple years ago

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9295

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6.4 Stroker · Mar 3, 2014

Been in mine for over a year, love it so far!
Dad also runs it it in his Corvette!

GSchretter · Mar 3, 2014

Fordtrucks said:
http://www.evanscooling.com

Thanks guys for posting this..

One question:
I currently am using one of those coolant filters.
You think it would be a good idea to leave in to ensure no more sand?

Thanks!

CAT35niner · Mar 3, 2014

GSchretter said:
Thanks guys for posting this..

One question:

I currently am using one of those coolant filters.

You think it would be a good idea to leave in to ensure no more sand?

Thanks!

Yea you can leave it. I've been running mine for two years. Should be nothing in the system by now. But I leave it on just in case. I don't need any issues.

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buck russell · Mar 3, 2014

Blcksmk08 said:
Lmao yea well that's because of a so called mechanic doesn't know how to catch all of the coolant after I told him 10 times.

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BMN FTMFL.

neverkickn · Mar 3, 2014

buck russell said:
BMN FTMFL.

In ingles por favor.

grimrippy23 · Apr 23, 2014

quick question. I have a leaking radiator right now that I am waiting to fix over the summer when I can make some more money, hard to work a lot when going to college, but I was wondering if I should go this route instead of getting an aftermarket radiator? Since it runs at 0 psi the plastic tanks should be okay right? I want it cause of the other parts of the system it helps last longer but I can't afford aftermarket radiator and to put this coolant in too. Trying to save money while keeping my truck healthy at the same time

CAT35niner · Apr 23, 2014

Depends on where it's leaking. Gotta remember the weight of the coolant pushing down on a crack or loose crimp on the tanks it still will leak. I had a couple leaks cause of a loose clamps and it leaked just from the weight of the coolant.

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grimrippy23 · Apr 23, 2014

I'm saying if I got a stock replacement would I be paying for a new one again or not?

CAT35niner · Apr 23, 2014

If you get a stock one and put Evans in it you won't have any issues. Thought you meant using the same one.

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Fordtrucks · Apr 23, 2014

I just bought a Mishimoto rad and it was only 100 bucks more than an OEM. if your really in a pinch for cash maybe a rad shop can fix yours for cheap, or you can find one at a junk yard. After that, switching to the Evans should keep it from leaking due to the lack of pressure. I would NOT waste the $300 bucks on the Evans if your rad is leaking now though.

Cknox121 · Apr 23, 2014

Food for thought....

How would you tell if you had blown gaskets? Would the coolant still puke/blow out the hole/ top of degas bottle?

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CAT35niner · Apr 23, 2014

Cknox121 said:
Food for thought....

How would you tell if you had blown gaskets? Would the coolant still puke/blow out the hole/ top of degas bottle?

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It would still puke out cause it's pressure forcing it out. Small hole can't let large amounts of pressure out quickly. Or you can use a combustion gas tester.

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6.4 Stroker · Apr 23, 2014

Cknox121 said:
Food for thought....

How would you tell if you had blown gaskets? Would the coolant still puke/blow out the hole/ top of degas bottle?

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Nope, headgasket cure in a bottle!! haha

Just kidding, it will still puke with the Evans if gaskets are compromised.

B585Ford · Apr 23, 2014

Blcksmk08 said:
It would still puke out cause it's pressure forcing it out. Small hole can't let large amounts of pressure out quickly. Or you can use a combustion gas tester.

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You disappeared after Sandy for a long time....good to see you back. What did you end up doing for the clutch....last time I heard you were going to swap the older version 3850 for the newer version.

Sorry for the derail.

CAT35niner · Apr 23, 2014

B585Ford said:
You disappeared after Sandy for a long time....good to see you back. What did you end up doing for the clutch....last time I heard you were going to swap the older version 3850 for the newer version.

Sorry for the derail.

Lol yea I had some time off from here. Had to take care of a bunch of things. Good to be back tho. Things have changed a lot. But I ended up going with the new slipper style 3850. Works well but makes horrible noises letting out. Get a lot of looks.

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B585Ford · Apr 23, 2014

Blcksmk08 said:
Lol yea I had some time off from here. Had to take care of a bunch of things. Good to be back tho. Things have changed a lot. But I ended up going with the new slipper style 3850. Works well but makes horrible noises letting out. Get a lot of looks.

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Thanks. Does it shift any quicker?