7.3 Combo: Clutch, Injectors, Turbo. Opinions and comments wanted

Vek

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Truck: early 99 with zf6.

Goal: reliable beater tow pig. No drag racing or sled pulling! No 4000rpm clutch dumps! I want the truck to like to work.

Current state: stock except for SMF w/ stock replacement clutch, 4" exhaust, and big air filter.

Plan: new clutch, new injectors, modified turbo

Injectors: Rosewood 160/0 or 200/80. I like the idea of a nozzle that isn't extrude honed to size, but can be swayed otherwise. Stock 15° HPOP is healthy, so small single shots or hybrids are appealing. I figure that one of Rosewood's favored tuners can make them behave.

Turbo: Rebuild with 360° thrust, new fancy compressor wheel, and new KC 70mm turbine wheel (which I have in hand). I also have a non-WG 1.0 A/R turbine housing, but for a 68mm turbine wheel. Plan is to have the 1.0 housing machined for the bigger turbine wheel. For the compressor wheel, the BD-type non-stepped wheel is appealing, because the factory wheel is LOUD, and I seem to gather that the WW2 and the 4/4 riffraff wheels are noisy too. The factory WW is way too shrill.

Clutch: I don't know where to go here. I want single disc so my syncros don't get hashed. Most clutch discussions on this site seem to focus on 3200-4000 rpm loaded launches pulling sleds or drag racing. I'll be doing nothing of the sort; instead I want to get a big load moving off-idle in low gear without shaking the truck apart, and have the clutch hold the tow and daily tunes. If it can hold more, great!

Other mods: riffraff fuel crossover and some sort of HP oil crossover. Gauges for EGT, boost, and maybe fuel and HPO pressures.

You guys that have been down this road before...any comments or recommendations?

Thanks
 
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My E99 6spd is similar to yours in how you are wanting to set it up. My set up is, 4" exhaust, better air filter with DIY intake, got rid of the oil crossover, factory Bosch 17* hpop (the *15 went bad at time of upgrade), stock turbo with a new wicked wheel (I think the E99 have them already, mine was just showing some age), Stage I injectors from Bean's along with there chip/tuning and this clutch...
https://www.amazon.com/Valair-NMU70...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00HUFKENG

I have pulled loads weighing a lot more than I should and have and never had this clutch slip, shake or rattle. Nice soft peddle and smooth release. The sales guy (Gary at the time) said it should do anything I want it to except for a 2nd gear burn out, LOL. So far he is right. The tires have always broke traction before this clutch even thinks about slipping. I am sure there are better, more expensive clutches out there, this one just happens to be the one I went with and so far, I would not hesitate to buy another. Side note, I did have my flywheel re-surfaced before the install just to make sure it wasn't warped.
 

euroford

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on clutches...

i've stuck with south bend, i've been happy with both the units and the customer service.

You can stick with a single disc if you want, but if you go with those 200cc injectors you'll have to be cognoscente of the fact that it won't last all that long. maybe you drive easier than me (i do some drag racing and enjoy driving it hard in the mountains), so that will help but you'll certainly be on the edge of a single discs capabilities.

After going with some swamps hybrids (great stuff!) my single disc put up with that for about 15k miles (and about 20 passes down bandimere).

then i went with south bends "street" dual disc. it lasted about 20k miles until i lost the front main seal on my ZF6 and got oiled down.

This clutch was doing well, but after about 10k miles and a visit to the drag strip it was feeling pretty funky and i had a lot of drivetrain slop. when i pulled the clutch out i found that the damping system added to keep the "street" dual disc quite was totally destroyed. both the little rubber dampers on the center plate and the rubber dampers in the clutch plates.

so for my 3rd clutch, south bend set me up with what they call the "super street" dual disc. its the same as the regular street dd except the damping system is eliminated, it uses a solid center plate without the rubber bumpers and the clutch plates have all steel springs.

yes, you can hear it just a bit when you push the clutch pedal in, no it doesn't bother me at all. this is a no cost option, but you have to call them to get a custom unit assembled. highly recommended. having rubber dampers in your clutch is a dumb idea, they heat up and get destroyed. its like having a failure point built into an otherwise solid setup.

a dual disc does shift just a tiny bit slower. adding new hydraulics, the heim joint mod on the clutch pedal and Redline MT-90 oil in the trans all helped keep things shifting smoothly. the tiny bit of slowness in the shifting only bothers me when drag racing, for normal driving and towing it shifts perfect and smoothly.

you'll have a pretty solid setup, mine is very similar. i just dropped in a KC38r 63/73/.84 (one of the first for e99) and initial impressions are GOOD, so count me as a fan of KC Turbos.
 
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Back woods

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I have two of the KC turbines, a .84/68mm and a 1.15/70mm. Running the non stepped BD style 9+0 on both of the turbos. One of them has an ATS housing (the 70mm turbo) and the other is stock 3" inlet. The turbo with the stock compressor housing is SUPER quiet. Basically no whistle but you can hear it moving the air. Just went 1200mi towing at 2200-2400rpm and am very happy with it. The other turbo with the ATS is a little bit louder but in a good way. Runs very well with the 1.15 housing and have no complaints about spool. Starts making boost around 1500rpm and pulls hard on the top end.
 

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