EGR cooler/valve?

Justus

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I know this has been talked about here before, I have read a lot about this issue, but I am still confused and wanting to settle the process once and for all for myself. So here is what I have.

My current situation is I have my cooler installed, my EGR valve installed, but turned off by my SCT X4.

Here is my current thought process... correct me if what I am saying is wrong please.

So my Delta T's are between 6-8 degrees almost all the time, sometimes reaching 10 degrees when it is really cold out. My engine oil temps are usually around 190-198, my coolant temps are usually between 184-192.

With that said, I think my EGR cooler and oil cooler are good to go. So do you think that it would work for me to put in a EGR valve plug like this: EGR valve eliminator

My thought process about this is that if I just keep the heat (exhaust) out of my EGR cooler then it will not get hot and cause the coolant in the EGR cooler to build up due to cooking. Thus the EGR cooler would not get any worse than it is right now, and would last a long time.

Also I am running CAT-1 ELC coolant with a coolant filtration system that I change the filters on about twice a year. My EGR valve is turned off with my SCT X4 also.

Any information bismic, or anyone else can give would be very helpful, thanks.
 

BS Hauler

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You will still have heat from the exhaust in the EGR cooler even though you don't have actual flow of exhaust thru the cooler because of the EGR valve is inoperative. You need to have someone install soft plugs and weld the ends of the cooler welded shut to shut off the exhaust gasses. This way if your cooler ever get a water leak it will just fill up the cooler and not leak into the exhaust system and loose your water causing it will get hot and crack the heads.
 

Mdub707

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The EGR valve can still be blown open currently, even though it's disabled in the tuning. I prefer to just flat out remove the valve and the cooler, myself. The cooler is really the part you want gone or sealed shut though. Either weld the plugs in it, or get a ****** kit with a solid up-pipe included.
 

Justus

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You will still have heat from the exhaust in the EGR cooler even though you don't have actual flow of exhaust thru the cooler because of the EGR valve is inoperative. You need to have someone install soft plugs and weld the ends of the cooler welded shut to shut off the exhaust gasses. This way if your cooler ever get a water leak it will just fill up the cooler and not leak into the exhaust system and loose your water causing it will get hot and crack the heads.

Thanks, that is what I have figured out I am going to do. I am going to weld up the EGR cooler, just leave the EGR valve alone, and put a new oil cooler in when I do my head stud job.
 

juarez454

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Hello everyone, reading this post I'm about to do the same work, on my 2006 6.0 I was under the impression that I needed to do the bulletproof kit, which is to much for my pocket, but I don't want to do a new motor either. What's your advice, any links or video please, new to the diesel world thank you.


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Constructionworker

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The only problem with the egr de lete is if you have emissions testing where they have to plug in to your OBD2 port, you will fail because nobody writes tunes to trick the computer to thinking that the egr is functioning.
 

Zmann

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even if they do not plug in to the OBD you can have issues with the snap idle test
since IME the WOT revs are not steady with a tune that blocks the cel

it fluctuates even if you have the tune set to stock rev limit
some of my tunes won't even let me WOT in neutral without freaking out

this is why I run a BPD egr cooler and a egr plug (364days a year)

but i would much rather get the cooler out all together
 
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