1,000 Hp Excursion Build

weekendwarriorfsw32

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Well Im ready to take my 725 hp Excursion to the next level. My current set up to get me to 725 was 190/75's, a Barder 68vgt, a T-500 HPOP and a small shot of spray and only motor mods were Arp studs and blown head gaskets when I did that. The truck has been sled pulling and drag racing constantly at that power for 2 years with a ton of 12.00 passes and full pulls all on a stock trans to boot.

So here is what I have so far planed for whats next, the engine is down at the machinist as we speak with a 4,700 dollar bill to repair the block from the damage from blown head gaskets to the deck with involves spray welding and machining it flat, line honing for main studs, punching it out to .010 over on the bores, and balancing the entire rotating assembly.

So here is my first real question I'm thinking about starting with a brand new block form ford for 1,900 and then taking that block down and having them check it out. My next question is for my build is a line hone and main studs worth it? I know the bottom ends are very strong as it is so just seeing if its worth that can of worms to line hone it, I already have the main studs to.

From there I have a set of R&R rods from Midwest and some H-13 tool steel tapered wrist pins from River City connected to Riffraff Diesel Coated and fly cut valve relief pistons, Rudys Diesel billet LPOP, so I should be pretty good there. Which main and rod bearings are people using Mahle or King and use stock rings or total seal rings?

Next up is the heads I bought a set from a really big name and they were compete junk, from the used valves they used, the ****ty valve seat job, and the crappy crack repairs. So from there I went with a set of ProMaxx heads that I bought some OEM ford valves, smith brothers push rods, colt valve springs and will be O-ringed and some slight porting work on and held down with some Extreme studs from No Limit top it off with a Odawg stage 3 intake to get some air flowing into it and some BD exhaust manifolds to get it flowing out of it.

Now turbo and fuel, I sent my 68mm to Barder to get machined into a 71mm which should handle the spray better but I still want to fab up a waist gate but trying to figure out the best way to go about this with still using stock up pipes. Was playing around with trying to weld a flange onto one of the exhaust manifolds but with clearance I'm not so sure, another thought was putting back on a factory passenger side exhaust manifold with the EGR provision and putting a gate there and then just plumbing it into the downpipe or my hood stack but I need to pick a gate size so I can order one and start playing with space but not sure what size mm gate will work best for me so I need input there. Fuel will be some 225's for right now to break it in and then stepping up to a hybrid most likely in the 300's once the motor is broken in.

I will also be doing a two stage progressive nitrous set up from Nitrous express to make sure I hit that 1,000 hp goal.

What I really want to hear tho is feed back on my bottom end build from some people with experience in those higher horsepowers and seeing if thats the right receipt.

DSC_0295_zpsso8rrv9g.jpg
 

imelmo

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My longblock just has Hypermax rods, ARP 625 headstuds, and upgraded pushrods and springs. No issues so far.

.
 

IIVonnyII

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ive done a load of research on this and am currently doing a similar build, they are a 4 bolt bedplate bottom end. mainstuds aren't worth it imho , but since you have them may as well throw them in . whos cam are you planning on running? as for the block , if you already have that 4700$ bill to eat , use the block .. you may as well. good call on the colt valvesprings , slightly lower seat pressure than RCDs will make the valvetrain way happier. ditch the barder charger .. for what it would cost to make it a 71mm... get a good size of compounds and do it properly . save the money on the 225s and just buy 330/100 hybrids . easier detuned for a break it / street files and enough fuel with supporting air for 850+ alone. set those up with a 482 over a 369 . youll love it. O ring the heads while youre in there .

bearings, use OEM spec mahle . they all are a newer ( I think ) trimetal construction that is rated for more than the original oem ones were from . their rings too are also updated over stock original
 

weekendwarriorfsw32

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I don't have the machining bill yet that was the quote so I went ahead and ordered the new block. I have a stage 2 colt cam, Im sticking with a drop in charger so I can stay in my sled pulling class of a stock appearing charger and its not that bad to get it made into the 71, I already have the 225's from another project to thats why I was just going to throw them in for now, whose 330/100 hybrids do you like?

ive done a load of research on this and am currently doing a similar build, they are a 4 bolt bedplate bottom end. mainstuds aren't worth it imho , but since you have them may as well throw them in . whos cam are you planning on running? as for the block , if you already have that 4700$ bill to eat , use the block .. you may as well. good call on the colt valvesprings , slightly lower seat pressure than RCDs will make the valvetrain way happier. ditch the barder charger .. for what it would cost to make it a 71mm... get a good size of compounds and do it properly . save the money on the 225s and just buy 330/100 hybrids . easier detuned for a break it / street files and enough fuel with supporting air for 850+ alone. set those up with a 482 over a 369 . youll love it. O ring the heads while youre in there .

bearings, use OEM spec mahle . they all are a newer ( I think ) trimetal construction that is rated for more than the original oem ones were from . their rings too are also updated over stock original
 

Mdub707

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Your stock appearing class allows nitrous? Because if not, I don't see how you'll ever get anywhere near 1000hp with a 71mm VGT.

My vote is compounds too, if you want a truck with big power that you can still daily drive and tow a trailer with. It's going to run a whole lot cooler too.
 

weekendwarriorfsw32

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No for sled pulls I wouldn't be using spray just drag racing. Not really into compounds after my 6.4 just the constant load it putting the truck under, at 70 my 6.4 is at 21 psi vs my 6.7 is at 3-4 psi and not concerned with towing as its hard to pull a goose neck with an excursion lol

Your stock appearing class allows nitrous? Because if not, I don't see how you'll ever get anywhere near 1000hp with a 71mm VGT.

My vote is compounds too, if you want a truck with big power that you can still daily drive and tow a trailer with. It's going to run a whole lot cooler too.
 

IIVonnyII

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youre comparing apples to oranges. the 6.7 has displacement on its side, we do not. 6.7s have low end power, we don't. constant load? that's what these motors are designed for, believe it or not , big singles are just as bad for motor wear, all that lugging then full boost , is a huge shock to the bearings. a properly set up compound set up will be miles farther ahead than any 6l. plus you can route them in a way that's easy to maintain.
 

weekendwarriorfsw32

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I guess the 6.7 wasn't the right pick for the point I was trying to get across but even my 6.0 now is in the 3-4 psi range at 70. I'm not seeing what I'm loosing if I waist gate it so that back pressure isn't sky high. We have done 980 on a single Barder 71 with one stage of spray and 225's and a completely stock motor. Thats why I'm hoping with a stage 2 cam, some ported heads and Odawgs intake manifold that I can crack that 1,000hp mark with the same set up and then later on up the injectors so that I can move that fuel only number up higher too.

youre comparing apples to oranges. the 6.7 has displacement on its side, we do not. 6.7s have low end power, we don't. constant load? that's what these motors are designed for, believe it or not , big singles are just as bad for motor wear, all that lugging then full boost , is a huge shock to the bearings. a properly set up compound set up will be miles farther ahead than any 6l. plus you can route them in a way that's easy to maintain.
 

thewrubelator

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Should be a neat setup, not my first choice with setup to make the power, but hey, not my truck! I cant even begin to think what drive will be like spraying the dog **** out of a VGT like that lol.
 

Mdub707

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Should be a neat setup, not my first choice with setup to make the power, but hey, not my truck! I cant even begin to think what drive will be like spraying the dog **** out of a VGT like that lol.

My thoughts exactly. Drive pressure has to be through the roof with that setup. I can't see a properly spec'd compound setup being anywhere near that bad.
 

thewrubelator

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My thoughts exactly. Drive pressure has to be through the roof with that setup. I can't see a properly spec'd compound setup being anywhere near that bad.

Compounds would be my first choice, wouldn't be tough at all to bump some juice in her and get that thing 1000.
 

Mdub707

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Just the thought of doing 1000, even on spray, with a single 71mm VGT seems so out the realm of possibility compared to so many other builds we've seen here. Hell, even the 725 on spray with the 68mm VGT seems crazy.

Wasn't Lances shorty build something like a 62/83 compound setup and that did what, 770hp on fuel? With bigger injectors than 190's as well.
 

weekendwarriorfsw32

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But then if I do compounds that bumps me into the sled pull class of 1,000+hp Cummins and duramaxs. I can't compete there at all, right now I always pull top 3 and a hand full of first places. Thats my biggest push to staying with a "drop in" turbo. I know that a good compound set up will do wonders for sure but I just don't think I'm there yet with my Tig skills either to fab up a set. mayne down the road.

My thoughts exactly. Drive pressure has to be through the roof with that setup. I can't see a properly spec'd compound setup being anywhere near that bad.
 

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