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Old 07-12-2018, 08:40 AM
joshua5438 joshua5438 is offline
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Default What is considered "Level"

I installed my lift and the front and read measurements from center of wheel to bottom of fender are very close. The front measures 31" and the rear measures 30.75" so the rear is a 1/4" lower. I was wondering what everyone considers to be level? I see tons of trucks that appear to be lower in the rear but everyone says they are level. I believe the fender is cut lower in the rear but not positive. If the measurements being the same is not leveled, then how much lower should the rear be to be truly leveled?
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:05 AM
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sootie sootie is offline
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you need between 3/4 and 1" of rake for the truck to appear level to the eye. Anything less that that and it looks sacked.
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:09 AM
joshua5438 joshua5438 is offline
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Originally Posted by sootie View Post
you need between 3/4 and 1" of rake for the truck to appear level to the eye. Anything less that that and it looks sacked.
This is my opinion also! I hate to do it but I think I am going to redo the rear lift to gain another inch. I want it to look level more than actually be level. I just wonder if the front spring will settle at all?
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:45 AM
joshua5438 joshua5438 is offline
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What would anyone suggest for raising it an additional 1"? Blocks have traction bar mounts so dont want to swap it out. Already have a 2" helper spring. Would a 3" helper spring be my only other option without replacing block and spring pack?
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:44 AM
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I get 1 x 3 flat bar and drill a hole half way thru the block to receive the centering pin from the leaf stack and then drill and tap the other side to accept a socket head cap screw which mates with the existing hole on the top of the traction blocks.
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Old 07-12-2018, 11:20 AM
joshua5438 joshua5438 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sootie View Post
I get 1 x 3 flat bar and drill a hole half way thru the block to receive the centering pin from the leaf stack and then drill and tap the other side to accept a socket head cap screw which mates with the existing hole on the top of the traction blocks.
I wonder if this would be any better than adding an additional 1" block between the current block and spring?
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Old 07-12-2018, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by joshua5438 View Post
I wonder if this would be any better than adding an additional 1" block between the current block and spring?
This is what I did with my pmf traction blocks.
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Old 07-13-2018, 06:36 AM
joshua5438 joshua5438 is offline
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This is what I did with my pmf traction blocks.
You bought a 1" block? Did you install it on top of below your traction block? Any issues with it wanting to rotate? I was thinking the pin will keep it centered but may weld some tabs on the sides to keep it from rotating?

If I was to do the flat bar I would probably get a new spring alignment bolt and run it thru the bar and springs. Would be a little more secure that way.
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Old 07-13-2018, 06:44 AM
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I put it between the spring and the traction block. The force from being clamped has kept mine straight plus the pin in the block was super tight in the traction block.
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Old 07-13-2018, 07:34 AM
joshua5438 joshua5438 is offline
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Do you recall what brand you used?
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