Going 38r in the 02

lincolnlocker

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How would a post puke? There is no physical way for any kind of fluid to come out of the post.

Puking batteries is normally from getting too hot due to overcharging.
thats my point.. basically a test question that it might just be corroded at the posts...

live life full throttle
 

pilot4life

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I had a temp issue as well with the billet WW. Ran 150-200 degrees hotter across the board. Stock wheel is back in and the billet wheel is on the bench.
 

pilot4life

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Dieselsite. Boost was a little low in cruise. Made great power at full throttle and was a little quieter than stock. I kept mine as it may be due to tuning restrictions with a PMR motor and 238/80 injectors.
 
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you dont have to disassemble the uppies. remove turbo, cut or remove manifold to up pipe bolts and manuver it around till it comes out. same with install of bellowed uppies. put them together on the bench and tq them tight and put them in the truck. put new manifold to up pipe bolts on loosely. install turbo on pedistal and up pipe collector. then tighten the manifold to uppies. use lots of antiseize at the mani to uppie connection so the pipes can move easy to form around the manifold.

live life full throttle
Tried to fit the uppipes in assembled like you mentioned, wasn't going to happen. Am I goin at it wrong? I can't get em to wedge in between the down pipe being in the way on passenger side and firewall clearance on the opposite side
 

lincolnlocker

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Tried to fit the uppipes in assembled like you mentioned, wasn't going to happen. Am I goin at it wrong? I can't get em to wedge in between the down pipe being in the way on passenger side and firewall clearance on the opposite side
***. forgot to mention that downpipe needs to be removed... it makes it easier anyway that you do it....

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fastersteve

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I was able to put mine in with the pass side assembled and the drivers side loosely attached at the head.
 

lincolnlocker

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I was able to put mine in with the pass side assembled and the drivers side loosely attached at the head.
that might have been a smarter way to do it.. I can't even get mine broke loose now... had a major brain fart the other day when I pullled my motor to fix headgaskets. got the motor back in and was ready to throw the turbo on and realized I forgot something... fuuuuuukk! so I had to fight the exhaust to get it off for 2 f'in hours just gettijg it out.... would have had the dam thing running by 7am instead of 10am..

live life full throttle
 
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Oh, been meaning to ask... When I went to reinstall the x pipe (what ever we're calling it) I couldn't get it to stay in the stock boots on the plenums and get the v-band clamp on turbo discharge. If it was down in boots it was just slightly too low, and if v-band was on, it would puul out of the factory boots. The uppipes, down pipe and pedestal install all went smooth. Is this normal? Anyways, just waiting on a riffraff boots, plenum inserts and new clamps now (should be here tomorrow), hopefully the stock boots were the problem
 

pilot4life

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Did you happen to remove the front cover of the compressor housing? If you did it may be slightly out of alignment.
 
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Well, finally got everything all buttoned up. It's definitely an improvement over stock turbo, especially egt control, however not as impressed as I'd hoped. Immediately out of the hole I feel the stocker spooled quicker, but once this one starts to spool it pulls better, it's not terrible, definitely better than the d66 I used in the 96. I definitely feel that the BASB spools faster in my stock tune on the 96, than this 38r does in any tunes on this truck. I know I've got bigger injectors in the 96, but I would think that the 02 in a performance tune should out spool the 96 in stock tune. I don't know, what do you guys think?
 

dsberman94

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I was told that there is no break in period for it. But it seemed to spool up quicker after a couple thousand miles. Maybe I just got used to it.
 

CATDiezel

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You guys are funny. Worried about the noise of the turbo when the 7.3L heui can be heard coming from 12 blocks away.

The 38r is a very reputable very reliable long standing turbo that's been through LOTS of testimonies and high horsepower engines.

Good choice all around.
 

dsberman94

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It's a very good turbo. I beat the chit out of mine for the past 15k miles. Been above 1500* egts many times for a very short period of time. And it barks quite often also. Still no shaft play and immediate spool. I love it. Glad I didn't replace it with another stock turbo.
 

TyCorr

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How are you making egts that high with a.stock truck and 38r?

Jmercier- your experience doesnt sound quite right. Given you had trouble hooking the spider up, are you sure you dont have a huge boostleak? I never noticed any spoolup issues.compared to stock. In a race tune or with larger injectors, forget it. In all the things ive had turbos on the 38r is unreal for what it is.
 

dsberman94

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^To answer your question, the bigger nozzles mixed with the hydra generic tunes and just mauling on it and holding it to the floor. Also the bad HPOP not building enough pressure to atomize the fuel properly and I could have had improper voltage going to the idm when I had a bad battery. Now it barely sees over 1300 on the gearhead tunes. Even pulling a sled, it maxed the EGTs at 1350 at the end.
 
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How are you making egts that high with a.stock truck and 38r?

Jmercier- your experience doesnt sound quite right. Given you had trouble hooking the spider up, are you sure you dont have a huge boostleak? I never noticed any spoolup issues.compared to stock. In a race tune or with larger injectors, forget it. In all the things ive had turbos on the 38r is unreal for what it is.
As for the alignment, I just clocked the compressor housing a little, I didn't quit have it perfect after installing the billet wheel, I'm planning on checking for boost leaks this week if I get time
 

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