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  #11  
Old 01-12-2018, 03:54 PM
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Single shots will help, not sure the intercooler will too much. With the 7.3 you are pushing
it 100% so it gets to the limits. With 6.7 it has lots more HP and Torque so it will be at
65% and still have plenty to go.

I agree, the extra gears sure would be nice, helps stay in the power band. When ours
shift up we fall right out of the bottom of the peak HP range and most of the time
on big hills there isn't enough left to get it back into the power. Your 410 gears should
help, my 373's don't do me any favors when pulling. I have to drop down early if loosing
speed before it would be too low of RPM even in the next lower gear. Honestly the
38r really drops out below 2000rpm. It was the thing to do at the time, better
options for lower end power now but I don't want to spend the cash when 99.9%
of the time it works just fine.

The HPOP, turbo, and the injectors really help. I don't push it though, I want the
truck to last a few more years.
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  #12  
Old 01-12-2018, 05:25 PM
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Pull the 295's off of it when you are towing and run factory size rubber, I bet it would make more than a little difference, I know you probably wouldn't like the looks but it would pull better and handle better also.
  #13  
Old 01-12-2018, 05:59 PM
ithumpwheniwalk ithumpwheniwalk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 565edge View Post
What kind of boost is it making when pulling those grades?

It will make 15 psi on the flats or slight hill. On the larger grades it makes good boost but I cannot remember exactly. I want to say in the 15-20 psi range. It gets hot when I roll my foot into it. It has pedal left in drive but gets hot so I downshift. Once I down shift I get way our of the throttle and hold it it 2,750 RPMS in 2nd gear. usually around 35-38 mph. I need another gear between 2nd and drive.

Totally agree with you DMD! I just want to be able to hold drive even at 45 mph. I might try a Mishimito Innercooler next then stage 1 injectors.
It's already been said, but I'll reiterate. Lose the D66. It is not a good turbo to be towing with.

I'm in your ballpark, my 5th wheel loads out over 14k. There's no way I'd dream of taking the trailer on any sort of trip with my d66. I yanked it off, went back to stock, and it was an improvement.

Not ideal, but like people will tell you, the new turbos like the t4 sxe line are a night and day improvement over the older technology. Just my .02 cents, I'll be upgrading both injectors and turbo for this towing season.
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  #14  
Old 01-12-2018, 06:02 PM
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Agreed^ when i put 35's on the 6.7 i can spike the egt gauge running light on a hot tune... the 6.7s run hot also when towing - im impressed with you're 7.3 lol
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  #15  
Old 01-16-2018, 07:29 PM
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I'm going to look into a different turbo. Being in California I'm stuck with my options. I would love to do a t4 mount set up but I do not know a smog guy. I plan on doing injectors and wait on the kc turbo 38r 366. Some guys really like water injection. Been looking into that as well. I have diesel site intercooler boots and plenum boots, bellowed up pipes and the plenum inserts from riffraf that let you tighten down the clamps more on the heads. Ordered a boost leak detector and will check for leaks this weekend.
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2000 Ford F-350 Dually, 4x4, D-66 Turbo with Billet wheel, .84 Ex housing, 69.84 turbine wheel, Gear Head Tunes on a Hydra, Unlimited 238/80 injectors, Walbro GSL392 Fuel Pump, 6637 Intake, riffraff regulated return, Riffraff FRX and HPX, comp cam 910 springs, smith bros .120 wall pushrods, terminator t-500, riffraff boost regulator, hutch mod, harpoon mod, 4" exhaust, 295's with 4.10 gears. John woods valve body, billet face transtar converter and built transmission.
  #16  
Old 01-17-2018, 10:19 AM
Dan V Dan V is offline
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Putting 1.0ex housing would help the EGT, but it's gonna get laggy.
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  #17  
Old 01-19-2018, 04:27 PM
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I see everyone does not like the D-66 type of turbo. What I have a hard time understanding is my truck does not smoke. It will only puff a little smoke in the highest setting if I stand on it from a dead stop. Other then that it does not smoke. It seems like if it is laggy it should smoke right?
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2000 Ford F-350 Dually, 4x4, D-66 Turbo with Billet wheel, .84 Ex housing, 69.84 turbine wheel, Gear Head Tunes on a Hydra, Unlimited 238/80 injectors, Walbro GSL392 Fuel Pump, 6637 Intake, riffraff regulated return, Riffraff FRX and HPX, comp cam 910 springs, smith bros .120 wall pushrods, terminator t-500, riffraff boost regulator, hutch mod, harpoon mod, 4" exhaust, 295's with 4.10 gears. John woods valve body, billet face transtar converter and built transmission.
  #18  
Old 01-19-2018, 05:53 PM
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I've never got above 1200* with 315s and 26K in tow; 363K miles on original injectors (1 reman), built trans, 6637, original turbo, DP Tuner on 40 hp tow, and 5" exhaust.
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  #19  
Old 01-19-2018, 07:12 PM
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Yea, I mean you have to also come down to you have a 17yo truck and it isnt gonna
do what the new technology can do.. You can always upgrade to a 6.7L and be
faster up the hills. Just do what you can with what you have.

My 38r is old school even for the 7.3, but it was the best thing around when I installed
it. It completely drops off around 2000rpm and I have to shift down, but if I can keep it
above 2100 it will climb a wall. I regularly drop out of OD and get the RPMs up and
and run 60MPH up most hills.. Now if I get slowed down I am dead and have to shift to 2nd.. I almost made it to the top of Tehachape (right by you) pulling my TT the last time I ran it until I couldnt get around a slow truck... Then 40 or so the rest of the way.
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2k, F350 SuperCruzer, 7.3L Diesel, Auto trans, 4x4, GH Tunes w/190/30s, S&B cold air intake, 4-inch turbo-back exhaust, Garrett 38r, Adrenaline HPOP, BTS Transmission w/6.0 cooler, Swamps IDM(broke, back to stock), in-tank and pre-pump mod, Heater valve mod, X-car sound panel mod
  #20  
Old 02-02-2018, 10:35 PM
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I went off the deep end and bought 238/80 injectors from unlimited diesel. Bought a set of comp cam 910 valve Springs and shim kit. Going to buy smith brother pushrods next week. Not sure if I'm going to put studs in it at this time. Hopefully Gear Head can turn it down in the tow tunes and make it run cooler. Not sure if I should put on a 1.0 turbine housing now or wait until I see what happens with egt's. I think I'll wait and if it still has high egt's I'll do anot her turbo down the road. I'll be pulling injectors tomorrow to send in for my cores.
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2000 Ford F-350 Dually, 4x4, D-66 Turbo with Billet wheel, .84 Ex housing, 69.84 turbine wheel, Gear Head Tunes on a Hydra, Unlimited 238/80 injectors, Walbro GSL392 Fuel Pump, 6637 Intake, riffraff regulated return, Riffraff FRX and HPX, comp cam 910 springs, smith bros .120 wall pushrods, terminator t-500, riffraff boost regulator, hutch mod, harpoon mod, 4" exhaust, 295's with 4.10 gears. John woods valve body, billet face transtar converter and built transmission.
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