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Old 01-12-2018, 05:20 PM
SAVAGE_DIESEL SAVAGE_DIESEL is offline
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Default 95 No Start Died while driving

TS-6
6637 Filter
3" up pipe
"who knows what else hacked in by PO's"

Gentlemen I have had a run of bad luck recently trying to stay positive this was just another thing to my pile but on...
Monday morning headed to work Truck developed a slight hiccup or bump couldn't tell. Turned radio off and windows down couldn't quite pick it up I was doing Highway speeds. I let off the throttle it went away I then got back into it and it was worse. The engine was breaking up. Almost as if it was running out of fuel. I have had a UVHC external plug burn up on me before it was like that but different lol. So I just continued to let the truck roll in N so trying to make it to the next exit. Soon the engine stalled. No restart while rolling I tried. I drifted ever so slowly to a stop in a parking lot right after the exit. Tried to start the truck and it wasn't having it. Cranked fine but wasn't gonna start. I got under the hood and couldn't find anything quick so I had to get her a stretcher ride home. I then replaced the CPS I am pretty sure that the dealer sold me the wrong one but he assured me it wasn't. That's a big no go didn't work. So now I had to call my boss and say I wasn't coming in. Well he informed me he was sorry but I would be getting written up since I am still on new hire probation. Since the last place I work laid me off I am starting over again.

SO I get the truck into my garage and I checked my FB it seemed fine a little cruddy but all in all ok. I took it out cleaned it up changed out the FL since they were barley there and put it back in with high hopes and once again nothing had to get a ride to work 2hrs early not paid with the wife and then get a ride home all week I have been doing this.

So a friend lends me a scanner (Blue point eerc or something) it worked but I got way less than I thought I would. Upon initial plug in under advanced I believe I got 3 codes P1280 ICP low circuit, P0472 EPS Low input, and a PO603 PCM Keep Alive memory Error.
The KOEO test came up with P0605 PCM ROM test something, and P0470 EPS.

Truck does not smoke while cranking except.... This evening I unplugged the ICP and EPS and cranked the crap out of it. It smoked a little and eventually chugged but never fired.

There is a loud clicking from behind or near the Fuel pump Oil is fine and tuner is unplugged. I went this evening and got a Fuel Pressure Test kit I am going to go out and try that next Because I am assuming it may be that pump but IDK and I don't want to muck this up more than it possibly already could be.

Any Ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. I am newer to Diesel trucks but not a green mechanic. I need some help Thanks in advance.
  #2  
Old 01-12-2018, 07:24 PM
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Patrick Feeley Patrick Feeley is offline
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Check the fuel pressure which should be 25 psi minimum while cranking. Check all the UVCH connections for oil or burned pins. Is the WTS light coming on? If the TS-6 chip is still in it, physically remove it (with key noehere near the ignition!) and see what happens. Cheers!
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1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:15 PM
SAVAGE_DIESEL SAVAGE_DIESEL is offline
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I have been trying to test the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve. I don't know if I did something wrong or not. I would assume I didn't because I am not new to testing pressures via Schrader valves.........
But does it need to be an empty fuel bowl?
Do I need to open the valve by giving it a half turn or anything or is it as straight forward as it appears to be?

In trying to test the FP I received a reading of 0psi so. I went to remove the fuel filter and see if when I cranked it filled the bowl and that stupid plastic cap broke on the Dura**** filter that was the only thing left in stock.... I already ordered a motorcraft filter the night I put that POS in I just didn't want to place the old filter back in so I assumed that pos would be better than the old one nope and never again.

when I removed the bowl etc.. the other night I checked and cleaned all the UVCH connections as well as all other connections in the valley area.

The WTS light does come on as well as the LED I placed on the dash for when the wife starts the truck for me in the mornings she knows if that doesn't come on recycle the key and wait 30 seconds or so until cranking once it is illuminated. Lol

I removed the TS-6 earlier and with no success nothing changed for me.

So currently I dropped the tank to inspect that and wow what a mess from a PO but it has fuel and seems intact but I do believe its a F150 sending unit with a half wacked Hutch mod. SMH

I planned to work forward from there with the frustration of the filter to deal with last . Next is the selector Valve body and switches. Does that ever get clogged or fail shut etc? Also I only have a front tank and with that being the case can I just leave that in place so the electronics work and jump the Fuel lines around it?

Thanks for the reply I am just desperately trying some old detective work I know it needs fuel so I decided to start with the supply..
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Old 01-12-2018, 10:16 PM
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79jasper 79jasper is offline
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I would blow out the feed line, from the engine towards the tank.
Mine the pickups broke off and pieces got stuck.
Or your pump is shot.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
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1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV Removal. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.
2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.

http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/174421.png
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/420711.png
  #5  
Old 01-12-2018, 10:22 PM
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Denver Denver is offline
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Check the engine oil!
  #6  
Old 01-12-2018, 10:35 PM
SAVAGE_DIESEL SAVAGE_DIESEL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denver View Post
Check the engine oil!
Denver I am sorry I did not post that I had already done so. I do believe though that it is sad you guys and lots of us through out our daily lives have to remind people to do that. Especially when it is as important as it is in our trucks. I am in the middle of removing all fuel related items from the valley and cleaning / checking lines.

But Denver being serious is it better to check the HPOP level through the sensor hole or through the little plug on the LH side of the pump?

Thanks guys I will keep you posted Keep the ideas coming I appreciate it all. But I do have work at 5am and may try to squeeze in a nap.
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:51 AM
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Patrick Feeley Patrick Feeley is offline
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Check the HPOP level through the plug on the driver's side top of the reservoir. Cheers!
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1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
  #8  
Old 01-13-2018, 03:04 PM
SAVAGE_DIESEL SAVAGE_DIESEL is offline
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Oil is all the way up to the hole.
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