KC Turbo 6.7 Testing Thread

KCTurbos

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We had some interesting results from our 6.7 2015 powerstroke billet wheel testing. We have been trying different designs to see how much more power we can squeeze out of the stock turbo.

Test Truck: 2011 f250 with 2015 turbo and 2015 HPFP. Truck Source Diesel & Off-Road tuning and No limit Cold Air intake

Blue was our baseline with a stock turbo. It spooled the quickest, which is impressive because billet wheels are often known for spooling faster that stock... well 1300ft/lbs of tq at 2000rpms is borderline of what most feel is comfortable as safe for the bottom end of these trucks. Our focus with our billet wheel was to try and move the power band up and to the right (AKA more hp, NOT more low end tq). The stock wheel ran SUPER clean in the mid range but fell off quick in the upper rpms and would start to smoke heavy and lose power.

Red was an 11 blade single plane design. It hardly changed anything... added a little tiny bit of power on the top end, but honestly you could not even tell anything was different by the seat of your pants.

Green was a 6x6 design which did exactly what we wanted, moved the HP up and to the right. It was only a 12hp gain at PEAK hp to bring us up to 594hp but was a significant hp gain on the top end. On the top end of the graph you can see it gained almost 50-60hp in the upper rpms. You could definitely feel the difference when driving the truck. The slight bit of turbo lag was almost non-existent with the TSD tunes, but the top end power was easily noticeable. The top end smoke output was reduced to just a lite haze. Another interesting part is this wheel has a slight intake turbo whistle to it that we really liked.

As the truck sits now:
Billet wheel 2015 turbo, 2015 HPFP, TSD tunes, No limit intake
594hp
1203tq

HyVYwNuh.jpg
 

NCSU dirt man

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so was the loss of torque of the first two runs compared to the 3rd run attributable to the billet wheel or was it a tweak in tuning? I'm interested in the billet wheel but was wondering if the torque loss was directly related to the billet wheel?
 

KCTurbos

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so was the loss of torque of the first two runs compared to the 3rd run attributable to the billet wheel or was it a tweak in tuning? I'm interested in the billet wheel but was wondering if the torque loss was directly related to the billet wheel?

No tuning changes were made...

The green run was started just a little later in the rpms... so it missed a little bit of the low end torque reading. But both of the wheels brought down peak tq a little bit. 1300 down to 1200 and move it up a little in the rpm band. That is much safer for the bottom end.
 

NCSU dirt man

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No tuning changes were made...

The green run was started just a little later in the rpms... so it missed a little bit of the low end torque reading. But both of the wheels brought down peak tq a little bit. 1300 down to 1200 and move it up a little in the rpm band. That is much safer for the bottom end.

ok gotcha. thanks for the clarification on that!
 

HeavyAssault

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I know you can't possibly test/dyno every possible mod, but it would be nice to see if a piping kit, or aftermarket inter-cooler has any significant change in the graph.

Thank you again for the testing and products!!
 

Kxc

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I know you can't possibly test/dyno every possible mod, but it would be nice to see if a piping kit, or aftermarket inter-cooler has any significant change in the graph.

Thank you again for the testing and products!!



Second that !


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bigrpowr

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agreed. like to know what the difference might be in power

we found very little hp increase with intercooler, iirc it was like 6 hp , but what we saw was tq gain of like 30 , and way better throttle response and quicker spool, as well as slightly better mileage. its a supporting mod, not made to add power, oh and it has a lifetime warranty .
 

HeavyAssault

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I already have the bulk of NL goodies with MidWest piping under the hood.

Just throwing a question out there to see what others think about improving air flow thru the motor. I'm a reasonable person to know that the IC improvement isn't all about adding HP, but flow thru the system. I love to read about people tweaking over a CAI, yet they can't realize the IC has coolant that flows thru at about 113*F or at whatever temp the secondary tstat is designed to open.
 

NCSU dirt man

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we found very little hp increase with intercooler, iirc it was like 6 hp , but what we saw was tq gain of like 30 , and way better throttle response and quicker spool, as well as slightly better mileage. its a supporting mod, not made to add power, oh and it has a lifetime warranty .

yea i knew the intercooler wasn't really about power gains. but I was curious about the other benefits from the piping kit. torque & throttle response would be the biggest perks in my mind lol
 

Kxc

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Kind of off topic and maybe it’s been covered but has anyone removed the secondary t stat to lower intake and fuel temps ? Maybe overcooling of the trans fluid would be an issue ?


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HeavyAssault

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The high side tstat (passenger side) would impact the transmission while the low side tstat (driver's side) would impact the intake and fuel temps.

If the secondary system was flowing that wide open there might not be a drop in temps due to the process of heat transfer not happening sufficiently.
 

KCTurbos

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I know you can't possibly test/dyno every possible mod, but it would be nice to see if a piping kit, or aftermarket inter-cooler has any significant change in the graph.

Thank you again for the testing and products!!

We plan to do that after a couple of modified vgt turbos... I really want to swap a piping kit and intercooler on RIGHT NOW. But I am trying to keep the baseline the same to show the difference with modifying the turbos and not skew the results.
 
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Would the billet wheel benefit from removing the silencer ring on the inlet side of the turbo?


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KCTurbos

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Would the billet wheel benefit from removing the silencer ring on the inlet side of the turbo?


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On a stock sized wheel I would not expect to see any real gains. Just more of a sound change.
 

KCTurbos

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6.7 turbo testing update. It has been a few weeks so we wanted to give some updates on our 6.7 turbo testing. We have exceeded our goal of a solid 600-650hp unit… so we might make this design a good “stage 2” turbo option for those who are willing to push their bottom end on a quick spooling vgt as they approach 700hp. Big thanks to Chris Buhidar with Truck Source Diesel & Off-Road for helping out on the tuning side to get the truck dialed in.


Test Truck 2011 f250, 180,000 miles, KC modified 2015 turbo, No Limit Air filter, stock 2015 cp4 and then RCD Stroker pump. We had issues with our brand new 2015 cp4 and instead of swapping it out we upgraded.


The dyno graph below displays 3 runs, I will break down each one.


BLUE – 1600us tune 630hp: on this run we were having issues with holding rail pressure. At 2600rpms the rail pressure would drop all the way down to 19k. Even on a reduced 1550 and 1500us tune the pressure was still dropping off. You can see the power really falls off on the top end because of fuel pressure dropping off.


RED – 1600us tune 650hp: Exact same tune as before but we added a stroker pump, this graph represents what you should see on a healthy 2015 cp4 that holds rail pressure on a 1600us tune. You can see the power curve is EXACTLY the same as before, except it is able to maintain rail pressure past 2600rpms. We were impressed to see it hold 600hp all the way to 3600rpms. On this tune the truck cleans up the fuel to NOTHING at WOT.


GREEN – 2000us tune 686hp: With the new Midwest stroker pump we were able to maintain a rock solid 29k rail pressure all the way to redline on the 2000us tune. I have no doubt we could have bumped up to a 2200us tune with this pump, we were very impressed with its performance. The truck cleaned up the fuel in the mid-range, but the turbo could not quite keep up on the top end and would start to haze pretty good (I will post a video in the comments). We have no doubt we could have hit 700hp with a piping kit and new air filter (air filter on the truck is old and dirty)… BUT if you are serious about pushing past 700hp then it is time to go non-vgt IMO. The slower spool up of the non-vgt should help the bottom end to last longer.

2962Iouh.jpg
 

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