Injector help

Mulletman · Apr 14, 2015

I'm wanting to upgrade from stock injectors to stage 1 hybrids. My understanding of hybrid injectors is they require less oil so you don't have to upgrade hpop am I right on that? Also what fuel system mods would I need? I read a regulated return kit is highly recommended and thats something I would be interested in is there anything else? And last off could someone give me a rought estimate of the cost of all of this? Thanks

rustbucket · Apr 15, 2015

Hybrids do require less oil, but stage 1's arent hybrids. Stage 1's are usually like 160cc and require more oil then stock injectors. But if your plan is just stage 1's then a regulated return and tuning your chip to run single shot injectors should be the only other mods you need. Together they run you between $800-1000. Retuning your chip has to be done right away, but you can wait a bit on the RR. But like you mentioned its highly recommended.

psduser1 · Apr 15, 2015

Shouldn't need to change hpop for hybrids , unless yours is just flat worn out.
Injectors will be about 1800-2000$, depending on vendor.
A rr is 450-500$, full fuel will be about double that. Another, cheaper, option is an frx, and keep the stock fuel bowl arrangement.
Another thing to consider is the turbo, it's not going to be happy very long, if you start using 200 cc s of fuel.

First thing you need to decide is how much power you want. It'll get expensive quickly if you just start changing parts, and you'll be disappointed. Youd be better off starting with gauges, if you don't already have them. Best mod you'll ever do!

Mulletman · Apr 15, 2015

rustbucket said:
Hybrids do require less oil, but stage 1's arent hybrids. Stage 1's are usually like 160cc and require more oil then stock injectors. But if your plan is just stage 1's then a regulated return and tuning your chip to run single shot injectors should be the only other mods you need. Together they run you between $800-1000. Retuning your chip has to be done right away, but you can wait a bit on the RR. But like you mentioned its highly recommended.

Okay can you help me better understand the difference in hybrids and a stage 1 set? Can you just get whatever size hybrids you want or what and is there a power difference between the two types if they were the same size?

bruce · Apr 15, 2015

Hyrbids are generally 200+ cc and have a 5:1 injection ratio meaning they use 5 times the oil per cc of fuel. Stage 1's are a codes, they range from 160-180cc and have a stock or maybe up to a 30% nozzle. A codes have a 7:1 injection ratio meaning you need 7 times the oil per cc of fuel. Also those cc values and all per 1000 injections. Stage 1's being single shot will make them use less oil than a stock AD code injector which is a split shot.

Mulletman · Apr 15, 2015

psduser1 said:
Shouldn't need to change hpop for hybrids , unless yours is just flat worn out.
Injectors will be about 1800-2000$, depending on vendor.
A rr is 450-500$, full fuel will be about double that. Another, cheaper, option is an frx, and keep the stock fuel bowl arrangement.
Another thing to consider is the turbo, it's not going to be happy very long, if you start using 200 cc s of fuel.

First thing you need to decide is how much power you want. It'll get expensive quickly if you just start changing parts, and you'll be disappointed. Youd be better off starting with gauges, if you don't already have them. Best mod you'll ever do!

I do have gauges and a 6 pos TS with the "can tunes" I would get retuned by beans more than likely. What's is "frx"? And I'm shooting for a little over 400 just somewhere in that range this is my daily driver so I want to keep it mild and cost efficient. A GTP38R PowerMax Turbo is something I would like to upgrade to someday..

bruce · Apr 15, 2015

Mulletman said:
I do have gauges and a 6 pos TS with the "can tunes" I would get retuned by beans more than likely. What's is "frx"? And I'm shooting for a little over 400 just somewhere in that range this is my daily driver so I want to keep it mild and cost efficient. A GTP38R PowerMax Turbo is something I would like to upgrade to someday..

400 would be attainable with 160/30 and a 38r. The frx is a fuel rail crossover. It eliminates to stock deadhead design. The 160/30, 38r, frx and hutch mod would be a nice, easy 400 horse combo

OhioPipeliner · Apr 15, 2015

The FRX is a cheap alternative to a regulated return system that deletes the fuel bowl. Retains the factory fuel bowl but allows both heads to be connected to fuel delivery and gives you a metered return. If that makes sense

Mulletman · Apr 15, 2015

How do you do the FRX? What's the difference in it and a regulated return performance wise?

Justin@DP-Tuner · Apr 15, 2015

bruce said:
400 would be attainable with 160/30 and a 38r. The frx is a fuel rail crossover. It eliminates to stock deadhead design. The 160/30, 38r, frx and hutch mod would be a nice, easy 400 horse combo

:whs:

160/30 and a 38R is a proven combination. People love it and you do not lose any drive-ability aspects of the truck.

Mulletman said:
How do you do the FRX? What's the difference in it and a regulated return performance wise?

The FRx is an easy install. Simply remove the fuel rail plugs at the back of the drivers side head and front of the passenger side head. The lines on the FRx will route to these locations. The FRx replaces your factory fuel pressure regulator.

The different between it and a full RR is:
- Not easily adjustable fuel pressure (must remove it and change springs).
- No increase in fuel line size over stock.

The full RR is easily adjustable with the turn of a wrench on the regulator, and it increases fuel line size for more volume.

We carry both. The FRx works great for 160/30 injectors. Anything above that and we recommend a full RR.

CarportMechanic · Apr 15, 2015

Skip the FRX and get this,
http://www.cncfabricationllc.com/?product=4-line-feed-7-3l-sd-fuel-bowl-retain-kit

Im close to 500 at the wheels and never drop below 50 psi on a tired stock pump. Pretty slick setup for those not needing much more fuel.

Mulletman · Apr 15, 2015

CarportMechanic said:
Skip the FRX and get this,
http://www.cncfabricationllc.com/?product=4-line-feed-7-3l-sd-fuel-bowl-retain-kit

Im close to 500 at the wheels and never drop below 50 psi on a tired stock pump. Pretty slick setup for those not needing much more fuel.

what is the difference in this and the frx? What's better about it?

Mulletman · Apr 15, 2015

Okay so what's the difference in the 160/30 and stage ones, which do you get more hp with? I don't tow so I'm not worried about EGTs and smoke doesn't bother me. But I want to keep stock hpop.

psduser1 · Apr 15, 2015

Stage ones have a stock nozzle. Imo, the only advantage there may be price.

Mulletman · Apr 16, 2015

Okay I think I've decided to save up for some 160/30 from full force and then do a frx and hutch mod. While I was looking at the frx I found some other fuel flow products that riff raff has one is the banjo bolts that are supposed to flow better and some high flow cvc fittings that are 30$ would either of these be worth it?

Arisley · Apr 16, 2015

CarportMechanic said:
Skip the FRX and get this,
http://www.cncfabricationllc.com/?product=4-line-feed-7-3l-sd-fuel-bowl-retain-kit

Im close to 500 at the wheels and never drop below 50 psi on a tired stock pump. Pretty slick setup for those not needing much more fuel.

With that, you still have a dead-headed system. just feeding both sides from the rear. You are simply replacing the FRX with a steel line between the front feed lines.

Justin@DP-Tuner · Apr 16, 2015

Mulletman said:
Okay I think I've decided to save up for some 160/30 from full force and then do a frx and hutch mod. While I was looking at the frx I found some other fuel flow products that riff raff has one is the banjo bolts that are supposed to flow better and some high flow cvc fittings that are 30$ would either of these be worth it?

Good choice. You will be happy with that setup. Let us know if we can be of any assistance when it comes time for the upgrades. We carry all those parts and can get you the tuning required for them.

The high flow fuel CVD fittings are nice. We sell them with every FRX we sell.

CarportMechanic · Apr 16, 2015

Arisley said:
With that, you still have a dead-headed system. just feeding both sides from the rear. You are simply replacing the FRX with a steel line between the front feed lines.

The end of each head is supplied from the fuel bowl. You have 4 lines coming off the fuel bowl feeding each end of the fuel rail. It is no longer dead headed.

You also get rid of the stock CVC fittings that restrict the flow. FRX $200, CVC fittings $30. Might as well spend the $250 to get a system that can support bigger injectors.

Justin@DP-Tuner · Apr 16, 2015

CarportMechanic said:
The end of each head is supplied from the fuel bowl. You have 4 lines coming off the fuel bowl feeding each end of the fuel rail. It is no longer dead headed.

You also get rid of the stock CVC fittings that restrict the flow. FRX $200, CVC fittings $30. Might as well spend the $250 to get a system that can support bigger injectors.

Is the line size increased any over stock? Also, how is any air let out of the system?

Not trying to put down or knock the product. Just looking for information since I have never ran it.

CarportMechanic · Apr 16, 2015

Justin@DP-Tuner said:
Is the line size increased any over stock? Also, how is any air let out of the system?

Not trying to put down or knock the product. Just looking for information since I have never ran it.

Looking into it more I agree, I dont see how the air is being relieved from the system....My bad, disregard my previous post.