buschpoweredstroker
New member
A buddy of mine bought my old set of 238/200's to put in this project for his daughter so that she could beat her loud mouth fummins owning cousin. I'll try and get everything right the first time:
Original stock truck ran fine but the body was shot, so he picked up an obs gasser and swapped wiring/motor.
Knowing the 238/200's were going in with a 70mm turbo he did ARP head studs, one at a time torqued to 140ft/lb. His were all the same length ( I thought I had short and long ones in my set?) and instead of grinding the injector hold down to clear the top studs, he cut the studs down themselves to clear, but I don't see any issue with this as he says the holders all clear now. He also changed the uvch's and put new pigtails on the main harness.
He got the motor back in minus radiator support/radiator and fired it up just to check to make sure things were ok in case he had to pull it back out. He got it fired up but it had issues. It smoked horrible, and had no throttle response. He could shoot it with starting fluid and it would rev up normal. He thought the smoke was oil, but I told him to check his oil level, and sure enough it was rising every time he fired the truck up. It has to be fuel because there is no water in the block yet. I told him it sounded like an injector issue- stuck open/cracked or broken nozzle/internal issue, he pulled them out but there was no visible damage except a missing oring that he missed when he first put them in. He went ahead and changed all of the orings and crush washers anyway to eliminate that as an issue. Put it back together and it did the same thing, still smoked, no throttle response. He swapped the original set of injectors that he drove the truck in the shop back in and it does the same thing. It did idle fine for a couple of minutes but then it went back to smoking really bad and fuel out the exhaust. They swapped idm's with a known good one, no change. I told him to check for any codes, but his scanner says it can't link, any ideas? He is going to check the pushrods tonight also.
So my thoughts and questions on possibilities:
1. Electrical- It was supposedly a direct swap, no cutting or splicing, but is it possible that something got crossed or shorted and is sending signal to keep one or more injectors open constantly? I'm not sure that's even possible?
2. Heads- With him torqueing the ARP's to 140 in one shot, is it possible that he cracked a head? I can't see that letting that much fuel in that quick though, he could see the oil level come up within a minute or two of the truck running.
I know with an electrical swap like this there are a lot of things to go wrong and I'm sure there will be other questions that you will have. I'm half laid up right now with a broken leg (I hate snowmobiling :fustrate
so I can't wrench on it myself but I can point him in any direction and he'll check things, It will just take a little bit for me to get answers and get back here with them, I'll do my best to keep everybody on the same page.
I HAVE NOT PERSONALLY WORKED ON THIS TRUCK**
Original stock truck ran fine but the body was shot, so he picked up an obs gasser and swapped wiring/motor.
Knowing the 238/200's were going in with a 70mm turbo he did ARP head studs, one at a time torqued to 140ft/lb. His were all the same length ( I thought I had short and long ones in my set?) and instead of grinding the injector hold down to clear the top studs, he cut the studs down themselves to clear, but I don't see any issue with this as he says the holders all clear now. He also changed the uvch's and put new pigtails on the main harness.
He got the motor back in minus radiator support/radiator and fired it up just to check to make sure things were ok in case he had to pull it back out. He got it fired up but it had issues. It smoked horrible, and had no throttle response. He could shoot it with starting fluid and it would rev up normal. He thought the smoke was oil, but I told him to check his oil level, and sure enough it was rising every time he fired the truck up. It has to be fuel because there is no water in the block yet. I told him it sounded like an injector issue- stuck open/cracked or broken nozzle/internal issue, he pulled them out but there was no visible damage except a missing oring that he missed when he first put them in. He went ahead and changed all of the orings and crush washers anyway to eliminate that as an issue. Put it back together and it did the same thing, still smoked, no throttle response. He swapped the original set of injectors that he drove the truck in the shop back in and it does the same thing. It did idle fine for a couple of minutes but then it went back to smoking really bad and fuel out the exhaust. They swapped idm's with a known good one, no change. I told him to check for any codes, but his scanner says it can't link, any ideas? He is going to check the pushrods tonight also.
So my thoughts and questions on possibilities:
1. Electrical- It was supposedly a direct swap, no cutting or splicing, but is it possible that something got crossed or shorted and is sending signal to keep one or more injectors open constantly? I'm not sure that's even possible?
2. Heads- With him torqueing the ARP's to 140 in one shot, is it possible that he cracked a head? I can't see that letting that much fuel in that quick though, he could see the oil level come up within a minute or two of the truck running.
I know with an electrical swap like this there are a lot of things to go wrong and I'm sure there will be other questions that you will have. I'm half laid up right now with a broken leg (I hate snowmobiling :fustrate
so I can't wrench on it myself but I can point him in any direction and he'll check things, It will just take a little bit for me to get answers and get back here with them, I'll do my best to keep everybody on the same page. I HAVE NOT PERSONALLY WORKED ON THIS TRUCK**
