Oil pan installation question! Help!

So I bought a moroso pan and gasket and sure enough the gasket doesn't line up quite right on the ends. So beings I have a fresh tube of Ford sealant I am thinking just do it the original way. Here's my question: if I apply the Ford rtv to the pan do I tighten it right away with the rtv still wet? My block has drip dried for over a week now and my surfaces are clean.

That makes sense. I've read 1/8 inch bead on the straight parts and 1/4 on the curved parts. Does that sound correct?

Should say how to use it on the tube.

ToMang07 said:

IIRC the directions say to let it sit for 10-15 minutes, finger tighten, then torque after a couple hours.

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iowacornfarmer said:

That makes sense. I've read 1/8 inch bead on the straight parts and 1/4 on the curved parts. Does that sound correct?

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These will work. Don't be afraid to get it heavy on the corners where the pan dips down around the front and rear mains. Once the pan is bolted up, give it 24-36 hours to cure, depending on temperature.

psduser1 said:

These will work. Don't be afraid to get it heavy on the corners where the pan dips down around the front and rear mains. Once the pan is bolted up, give it 24-36 hours to cure, depending on temperature.

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this^^^

I know my pan leaked after the 1st suposed "fresh rebuild" in Chelsea mi, in the corners so don't be afraid to lay it thick there. the longer it can sit and cure before you add fluid the better..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Thanks for the replies! I really thought the moroso oil pan gasket would be the bee's knees but I'm not risking pulling the engine to reseal it.

iowacornfarmer said:

Thanks for the replies! I really thought the moroso oil pan gasket would be the bee's knees but I'm not risking pulling the engine to reseal it.

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yeah, that is what everybody thought too.. sucks but good ole gray death is hard to beat.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

So another question... The moroso pan that I have I tried just test fitting it to the block and while it seems fairly tight around the rear cover the front has an 1/8 gap around the front cover. Also comparing the two pans I noticed the two "grooves" in the pan front and rear are much shallower than the Ford pan. I wonder if the gasket would have been OK (not great) and the pan was just poorly manufactured. The 1/8 inch gap seems huge to me.

I'm just totally guessing here but do you think the moroso pan is made to be used with the gasket, hence the big gap?

I'm sure it is, but in the instructions for the gasket it said "if using the original pan" blah blah blah clean everything perfect. So I would have to assume the moroso pan wouldn't have to be used with there gasket.

I put the factory oil pan back on to compare fitment and the factory pan fits much better. I will be returning the moroso (SPI) pan and buying OEM and sealing it with Ford sealant. I guess if the factory pan lasted this long another one will out live the truck. Thanks again guys for the replies.

The factory pan has also been tightened and glued with bolts which is why it seems to fit better. Ive done ford pans, O'Reilly sells a "made in canada" pan ice used three diff times, and another guy had a "pioneer" brand oan that was ungodly expensive. They all had similar fitment issues like you're describing.

I skipped ford when i did my own and used the Canadian uaw made pan that was 250 bucks compared to fords 400 and ive never regretted it.

My advice is simple:use MORE sealant than you thinkyou need. This goes for the front cover as well. Put er on heavy!

An 1/8" bead aint chit. Go for a 1/4 and closer to 3/8 in the corners and around the crankshaft humps on the pan.

You might could put a bit extra where the timing cover and pan rail meet in the front. Whilz yer in there you best be checkin your oil pickup tube, the gasket it uses, and the piston oil jets.

And keep that greh outta the pan bolt holes.

The Ford pan is around 230 including the dipstick adapter. I'll lay it on thick when I put it on. I ended up getting a heavy duty engine stand for it and I'm gonna roll it over to seal it up. I tightened the so called moroso pan and it didn't fit near as good as the original pan. *** aftermarket.

Gotcha...if you can get all that for 230 do it. I was at 80bucks just for the adapter and nut.

May want to rhino, line x paint the pan to protect it

Plan is to sand it and put por 15 on it. If it lasts me 10 years + that's good enough for me. Hell the first pan with light paint lasted 20 years