New clutch and EGR cooler ******?

Hello, just joined after being directed here from over on the ******* forums.

After 7 years and 71k of driving around on the stock clutch mostly hooked to a trailer, and 6 years of it *** ******d/tuned trouble free, the stock clutch wasn't happy in 5th and 6th anymore even on the lower tunes. I've only been stateside 29 days in total so far this year with all the flying around the world, so I had a diesel shop up in Jersey help me out. All at once they did a Valair dual disk clutch, EGR cooler ******, and a coolant bypass filter while I was gone on a two week Africa mission.

Totally new max power truck with a clutch that grabs right away with a quickness, and handles all the boost I throw at it. Stock slave cylinder only lasted a day with the amazingly tough new pressure plate. I bought an OEM master and slave from Ford, but was wondering if any of the few handshakers out there found anything that is stronger than stock? After driving all day in the heat, the new master and slave just don't have enough push to let me shift from R to L or L to R, and I have to float a downshift in the other forward gears.

Secondly, I was also directed that I need a different set of tunes now that the EGR cooler is ******d, or I will get a check engine light. I've been using the first set of ******* tunes I bought from 6 years ago no problem, but want to avoid any new problems. Insight on that anyone?

In other news my new Red Goat Fab bumper finally showed up.



My other ride...



Adrianspeeder

So good news Ford is warranty returning my failed replacement master and slave, and I ordered a backup to keep in the toolbox from Valair. Friendly customer rep there warned it probably is made by the same manufacturer that Motorcraft uses, but it is a half price over the $300 Ford charges.

Adrianspeeder

Im sure some 6.4 guys will chime in i drive a 6L so can't really help ya but if it hasn't pulled any codes yet i bet your original d3lete tunes shut the egr off can't say forsure though.


Sent from a Californian ruined by smog laws

I have the steel braided line master/slave from South Bend on my pulling truck and it works great.

Thanks gman, I'll give them a look.

My dirtymax buddy has already offered to give me a tow when the next slave cylinder pops.

Adrianspeeder

gman1 said:

I have the steel braided line master/slave from South Bend on my pulling truck and it works great.

Click to expand...

Googling around, and not seeing anything like that. Dodges keep coming up having an upgrade option, but not the Fords. Don't see it on southbends website, but I'll call them in the morning.

The $169 master/slave from ValAir works worse than both the $300 Ford master/slaves I've tried. Only difference I can tell is the ValAir doesn't have the insulation around the line like the Ford ones do. Appear to be the same plastic components though. All three work great cold, but after 20 mins of driving, with an unchanging still strong pedal feel, will not disengage the clutch enough to stop creeping forward with the brakes off, or let me shift into reverse.

Only thing I've gotten out of this is I'm getting better at float shifting the forward speeds as I'm driving. :doh:

Adrianspeeder

You will have to call South Bend. It is a new product and not on their website.

Just got it on order, and told them to put it online as well.

Thanks!

Adrianspeeder

Nope. Still the same, I think something must be wrong with my pressure plate. Leaving the country for a week or so, but when I'm back I suppose I'll try a dual disc from Centerforce.

Adrianspeeder

When it is acting up Can you see the arm moving when someone pushes the pedal?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Yup!

With the clutch pedal down all the way, and brakes off, the truck will creep forward or reverse in gear. Release the clutch pedal for normal engagement when cold. After 20 or so minutes driving, the syncros are not strong enough to overcome the slight engagement when the pedal is down all the way.

Adrianspeeder