6.0 dies when warm

bismic

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Again, your issues are almost certainly:
1. plugged oil cooler
2. high pressure oil leak or bad HPOP.

When hot cranking, the IPR command is maxing out and you are not getting enough ICP pressure to start.

Air test to find the issue. Plan on flushing the coolant and changing out the oil cooler.
 

nsfr1206

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Thanks. You’ve been a big help. I have to change radiator anyway as this one is leaking at the top.



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nsfr1206

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I’ll get the icp air test adaptor and report back. Also, does anybody have an opinion on oil cooler? Go back with OEM?


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bismic

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With a clean coolant system, the OEM oil coolers are fine. The problem is that yours looks like it is pretty dirty. A dirty coolant system is hard to clean up and you risk plugging up a new oil cooler if you can't get it completely clean. Most Techs recommend chemically cleaning (using Cummins Filtration brand chemicals - Restore Plus and Restore) when the system is very fouled/plugged.
https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/sites/default/files/lt36625.pdf
Ford sells a product similar to Restore Plus.

Before doing that, you might try backflushing the oil cooler. Closely inspect what you backflush out. It helps to know if it is gel or solids. The best way to backflush is with a system like that sold by fixur6.

https://fixur6.com/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIX1rr8zSTs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Va6K3S9-vWQ

If/when you decide to chemically clean:
The Restore Plus is an acidic cleaner and for iron scale and mineral deposits. The Restore is for silica gel and even helps if oil contaminated. You typically want to try cleaning the system with the contaminated oil cooler in place. The problem with that is that it has a bypass in it if the differential pressure across it is too great. If the cooler is bypassing, it won't get cleaned. Every system behaves a little bit differently. Cleaning it can get laborious.

If I had the money, at least with a severely plugged oil cooler, I would install the BulletProofDiesel air cooled oil cooler. If that is too much money, then installing their remote located oil cooler will help in that it can be changed out more easily (and cheaply) if it gets plugged again.

Be aware, the coolant system capacity is 7 gallons. The BEST you can do when draining is to get out half of that. That even assumes you drain coolant from the block plugs. This means that a lot of the old stuff stays in. That is why a back flush is very helpful.

Lots of people flush with hose water at first with the last few flushes being distilled water. This works ok, but IMO you need at least 2 distilled water flushes. When you go to add coolant, you need to add 3.5 gallons of concentrated EC-1 rated ELC coolant, then top off with distilled water. It is best to use a vacuum fill tool, but it isn't absolutely necessary.
 
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bismic

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FYI - there are two ways to check the accuracy of your temperature sensors.
1. With a completely cold engine (ie leaving it off for 24 hours) - verify that EOT and ACT are essentially identical.
2. Remove, clean, and swap the oil and coolant sensors. They are the same part. If the temperatures behave the same way, then they are most likely accurate.

Also, you should look at the coolant in the degas bottle. Verify that it is still clear. You may already have oil in it. If there is much oil in it, the turbulence in the system will emulsify the oil and instead of liquid, you will get a pudding consistency substance in the system.
 

nsfr1206

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I ordered the Fix ur 6 valve. I also need to get a radiator. Is oem the way to go?


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bismic

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Probably a lot of opinions on the radiator. I don't have anything against the OEM radiator. Even the crimped tanks don't really bother me. That said, I spent the extra money on one from BulletProofDiesel when mine failed (all aluminum). It is somewhat expensive and the shipping is a pain. I have yet to hear of one being delivered without any damage. Maybe others can help there.
 

nsfr1206

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Ok. I received my test adaptor for the air test. If this problem only shows up when engine is at operating temp will it need to be there to find the leak?


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nsfr1206

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Showing my ignorance here. Can I run engine with covers off?


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nsfr1206

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And one more thing. When trying to restart when hot even with a 5 second or so crank the oil pressure gauge on dash never rises. Is that normal or just a sign of the leak?


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bismic

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Showing my ignorance here. Can I run engine with covers off?
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yes

And one more thing. When trying to restart when hot even with a 5 second or so crank the oil pressure gauge on dash never rises. Is that normal or just a sign of the leak?
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It is not normal. Several things can cause that. A bad leak could do it. A bad HPOP could do that. A bad IPR could do that. LPOP issues could do that.
 

nsfr1206

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I put the air adapter in the front of right cover and applied air to cold engine. I just get air coming out of oil fill tube.


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nsfr1206

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So I should take covers off and dig deeper I suppose. Also, where I screwed in fitting had oil in it. Is this normal?


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79jasper

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If you put it where I think you did, that's the icp sensor, so yes, should have oil.
I would pull the cover.

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nsfr1206

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06b2d8b2ff62e442cf89603c7630be30.jpg


It’s leaking here even though it has an oring on it to seal.


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nsfr1206

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It’s actually leaking from under the fuel rail by the injector.

Should it be leaking here?

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