2010 radiator leak?

I must of thought wrong and assumed only job 1 08 trucks had radiator problems? Well, I have a small coolant puddle right underneath my radiator drivers side. The coolant is on the fins at both front and back on the edge by plastic ends. Anyone else have radiator leaks with a 2010?

stroker221 said:

I must of thought wrong and assumed only job 1 08 trucks had radiator problems? Well, I have a small coolant puddle right underneath my radiator drivers side. The coolant is on the fins at both front and back on the edge by plastic ends. Anyone else have radiator leaks with a 2010?

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Even 6.7 (11-12's) have leaking radiators. That's exactly where mine leaked on my 08, got a mishi.

My 08 job3 leaked on driver side on top where plastic and fins met.. Replaced with an alradco..

Ok thanks. So I take it theres no updated version? Alradco or mishi only choices?

stroker221 said:

Ok thanks. So I take it theres no updated version? Alradco or mishi only choices?

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yup I would have got a Alradco but they weren't in stock when mine went out and I need it ASAP.

Has anyone had any issues with leaking Alradco rads?

Job 2, '09 here with a popped rad. Cab mounts are a big contributor.

Purchased an Alradco unit also, waiting for mounts to arrive then time to drop it off to have the mounts done. Maybe November.

I love my alradco! Peter is awesome to deal with.

Found a brand new mishi on CL for 650. Has a bent in mount on it I guess. Gonna go look at it this week.

Get Alradco.

Its not a job 1 2 3 thing, its a frame flex thing. Cab mounts either rot out to the point of falling apart and allow the frame to flex more putting the added strain on the core support and radiator, or just loose their stiffness and become spongy and soft causing the same result. The two better options are Daystar poly mounts or Dorman solid rubber mounts. The issue with the solid rubber ones is they will eventually crack and shrink but will out last the stock ones. With the poly one they don't crack or rot but will shrink slightly so a retorque needs to be done after some miles are put on them. As far as radiators go, if the mounts haven't been addressed it won't matter it will damage any of them. However that said if it needs to be replaced a full aluminum one with better cooling ability is a no brainer. The Mishimoto one has also been updated with rubber instead of solid post to further help keep the stress off the radiator when the chassis / frame flex.

Ok thanks. If mine are shot, poly mounts seems like a good choice..

stroker221 said:

I must of thought wrong and assumed only job 1 08 trucks had radiator problems? Well, I have a small coolant puddle right underneath my radiator drivers side. The coolant is on the fins at both front and back on the edge by plastic ends. Anyone else have radiator leaks with a 2010?

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Radiator concerns seem to exist in the entirety of the production range. Sorry to hear about the failure of your factory radiator. The stocker made it 5 years, much better than some other reports I've heard. Let me know if you need any assistance locating a radiator. Our new V2 aluminum radiator is a great replacement.

Powerstroke Man 6.4 said:

Even 6.7 (11-12's) have leaking radiators. That's exactly where mine leaked on my 08, got a mishi.

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Yes, although less prevalent, some 6.7L owners face a similar concern. Thanks for picking up our radiator!

f350guy said:

Job 2, '09 here with a popped rad. Cab mounts are a big contributor.

Purchased an Alradco unit also, waiting for mounts to arrive then time to drop it off to have the mounts done. Maybe November.

Click to expand...

SEABEE08FX4 said:

Its not a job 1 2 3 thing, its a frame flex thing. Cab mounts either rot out to the point of falling apart and allow the frame to flex more putting the added strain on the core support and radiator, or just loose their stiffness and become spongy and soft causing the same result. The two better options are Daystar poly mounts or Dorman solid rubber mounts. The issue with the solid rubber ones is they will eventually crack and shrink but will out last the stock ones. With the poly one they don't crack or rot but will shrink slightly so a retorque needs to be done after some miles are put on them. As far as radiators go, if the mounts haven't been addressed it won't matter it will damage any of them. However that said if it needs to be replaced a full aluminum one with better cooling ability is a no brainer. The Mishimoto one has also been updated with rubber instead of solid post to further help keep the stress off the radiator when the chassis / frame flex.

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Agreed, great input. The cab mounts have proven to be a big contributor to chassis flex. This translates into the radiator support which then results in twisting of the actual radiator. This is not good, and usually results in a separation of the core from the tanks. Be sure to check out the stock mounts, they tend to disintegrate after a few years.

Our new V2 design features a stronger core design and rubber mounting posts to transfer additional flex. More details on the new design can be found below.

http://engineering.mishimoto.com/20...erstroke-aluminum-radiator-version-2-details/

Let me know if I can answer any questions!

Thanks
-John

Well I got the mishi, had it almost done and go to put in my cold side pipe to intake and the thing wont fit through between rad. It barely fit with my factory one and the mishi is a tad wider. I believe its sinisters but not sure.

stroker221 said:

Well I got the mishi, had it almost done and go to put in my cold side pipe to intake and the thing wont fit through between rad. It barely fit with my factory one and the mishi is a tad wider. I believe its sinisters but not sure.

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Thanks for picking up our radiator. Yes, aftermarket pipe fitment is a bit tight on the cold-side, even with the stock radiator. For our cold-side kit, we recommend trimming the radiator support slightly to improve fitment. You may have to do so with the Sinister pipe.

Check out the video below, we highlight the process for modification when installing our cold-side pipe.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=53&v=BEH7lBK2-LI

Let me know if that helps!

-John

Mishimoto said:

Thanks for picking up our radiator. Yes, aftermarket pipe fitment is a bit tight on the cold-side, even with the stock radiator. For our cold-side kit, we recommend trimming the radiator support slightly to improve fitment. You may have to do so with the Sinister pipe.

Check out the video below, we highlight the process for modification when installing our cold-side pipe.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=53&v=BEH7lBK2-LI

Let me know if that helps!

-John

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I lucked out and was able to push the rad to the drivers side far enough to slide the cold side through. The only thing that makes I tight is where the end tank comes down at an angle rather than straight down. But oh well its in and so far everything is great!

I had the same issue. I have a No limits upper pipe on mine. I am so sorry Mike!!!! I hit it with a baby sledge to push it in a little to clear the Rad. Now it clears just fine.

stroker221 said:

I lucked out and was able to push the rad to the drivers side far enough to slide the cold side through. The only thing that makes I tight is where the end tank comes down at an angle rather than straight down. But oh well its in and so far everything is great!

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Nice to hear you were able to get it into place!

Shipmate said:

I had the same issue. I have a No limits upper pipe on mine. I am so sorry Mike!!!! I hit it with a baby sledge to push it in a little to clear the Rad. Now it clears just fine.

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When in doubt, open the hammer/sledge drawer. Good tip.

-John

I have Mikes EGR / Cold Side kit and A Mishimoto Rad, no fitment issues on mine.

I think it has to do with where you have the ends of the pipe in the couplings, weather or not you will have clearance issues. I choose not to play around with it and hit it with a hammer instead. Issue solved. In no way am I saying that the No Limits Pipe would not fit. I was just tired of trying to line it all up correctly. Plus I like hitting things with a hammer. I work on Torpedoes for a living!