Transmission Issue..... No CEL/OD Lights

ToMang07

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Last night I was almost home, the last mile I noticed the truck did not downshift where it normally does. It accelerated fine, no TC slip as far as I could tell, but didn't downshift. Got home, put it in reverse, it was almost like it was in neutral for a second then it jolted back and reversed. I figured I may not have put the shifter in all the way and didn't think much of it.

Well this morning on my way into work, about time the ATF got up to temp, (130-140*F) I noticed the truck was not shifting correctly again, it was maintaining 2nd gear. I shifted back into neutral, 2nd, accelerated, turned the OD on/off, no change. The only time the transmission would downshift was when I had my full completely off the accelerator.

I'll use AE when I get home tonight or tomorrow, but has anybody experienced anything like this before? I literally just checked the ATF fluid a couple days ago and level and color were good.
 

IHPowerstroke7.3

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Check the range sensor with AE to see what gear the truck is in when you have the selector in drive. Could be an issue with the direct clutch/ valve body. Check easy things first though. Is your shifter sloppy like the bushings are worn out?
 

ToMang07

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It was worse tonight. I'll post up videos when I can. I'll scan it tomorrow, I will say I got a CEL tonight followed by the OD light blinking.

Pretty sure I'm ***ked. Reverse felt like it was going out baking up the driveway. I didn't think it would make it all the way up.

Sent from the pocket porn device.
 
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ToMang07

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....
 

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ToMang07

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Well, I have an appointment with a local transmission shop Friday. Gonna have them drop the pan and give it a once-over. I'm really hoping for something electrical, since it's a month (or less) before plowing season and I really don't have the money to drop on a transmission right now. SOB only has 136k miles on it.
 

trackspeeder

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Your issue might be in the accumulator body. Sticky direct valve.
With 136k on the unit, you might want to rebuild. It sucks when they fry in the middle of a snow storm.:cursing::eek:
 

IHPowerstroke7.3

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Something wrong with direct clutch/ direct clutch circuit. If you are taking it to a trans shop, ask them to drop the valve body and check the 2-3 accumulator to see if its sticking as mentioned. My experience with dropping a pan on a transmission, all you will see is that the fluid is contaminated/ burnt, no different then you'll see if you pull the dipstick.

Direct clutch is used in 3rd (direct drive) and reverse. Being that the truck is used for plowing, a lot of back and forth drive to reverse tends to wear on them a little quicker than the average truck. 136k miles isn't so bad.
 

ToMang07

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Something wrong with direct clutch/ direct clutch circuit. If you are taking it to a trans shop, ask them to drop the valve body and check the 2-3 accumulator to see if its sticking as mentioned. My experience with dropping a pan on a transmission, all you will see is that the fluid is contaminated/ burnt, no different then you'll see if you pull the dipstick.

Direct clutch is used in 3rd (direct drive) and reverse. Being that the truck is used for plowing, a lot of back and forth drive to reverse tends to wear on them a little quicker than the average truck. 136k miles isn't so bad.

I only put the plow on at 90k miles, so really it's only had under 50k miles of "plowing" work, and only my driveway, never plowed commercially. I've towed a couple moderate loads, but most of the time it's small, light loads, like boats, etc. But, being that it won't go into 3rd and reverse is screwed.... yeah....I suspect the 3rd gear clutch pack. Which means it's toast.

I guess I figured if it failed, I'd see some signs, or it would fail when doing something taxing. Not just leisurely driving into work.
 

mandkole

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once clutches stop being clamped well (for what ever reason) and/or get glazed, its a matter of time. 2nd and 3rd clutches get worked on pretty hard.
 

IHPowerstroke7.3

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Like Mandkole says, once the clutches start slipping a bit, they burn up/glaze quickly. Once that happens, its game over pretty quick. If you develop an issue, by the time you generally notice its already too late. Plowing, even if not for very long, is still hard on any transmission. Its not so much pushing the snow as it is the constant switch between drive and reverse. I'm sure you are easier on the truck since its your own, but it still is not easy on them.

Differences between our dinosaur transmissions and the torqshift transmissions, torqshifts use variable solenoids. They can change the apply pressure, timing and what not and can sort of hide wear in the transmission. 4r100 can't do such, so once slipping occurs, failure happens a lot faster.
 

ToMang07

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hope mark kovalsky chimes in.. but without codes, it wont help much...

live life full throttle

It popped codes the next day, it's in the screen shot above. 2-3 shift malfunction and 3rd gear incorrect ratio.

Sent from the pocket porn device.
 

Northwoods2002

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You need to ohm our your solenoids and also make sure your shift cable is adjusted correctly.
P0733 - 3-4 shift error because of shift solenoid A, shift solenoid B or internal transmission components.
P0782 - 2-3 shift error because of shift solenoid A, shift solenoid B or internal transmission components.

Both codes refer to your shift solenoids operating properly. Once you've ohm'd them I'd also drive it and make sure they're switching properly. Once verified, you can go into the valve body next.

Solenoids should ohm out to 20-30 ohms each.
A is pins 1 and 3.
B is pins 1 and 2.
 
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