How to disconnect injector supply tubes?

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Any one have tips on how to disconnect the injector return supply lines. There seems to be 3 different tab connectors and I've only seen the one that shows to push down on the outside and pull on the middle which that has me baffled. I don't want to break anything and I want to make sure I'm doing it correctly. So any tips or videos? Especially the one with out the tabs.
 

6.0 Tech

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The middle section will slide up. I usually grab them with a pair of pliers and gently slide it. Make sure you only grab the lip around the middle, otherwise, youre gonna be fighting yourself trying to lift it.
 

gotchadollar

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This will give you an idea how they slide
 

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Thanks, that helps a lot. It started raining right after I laid out the injectors and wrote down all the IQA numbers so I held off until next weekend.

I noticed how small the crush washers are. Do they just come out with the old injector or do they need to be fished out the injector hole?
 

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Thanks, that helps a lot. It started raining right after I laid out the injectors and wrote down all the IQA numbers so I held off until next weekend.

I noticed how small the crush washers are. Do they just come out with the old injector or do they need to be fished out the injector hole?

They come out with the injector typically. New o ring kits will come with the jumper ube, the body o ring, the return o ring, and the washer.
 

Sportchassis06

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Thanks, that helps a lot. It started raining right after I laid out the injectors and wrote down all the IQA numbers so I held off until next weekend.

I noticed how small the crush washers are. Do they just come out with the old injector or do they need to be fished out the injector hole?
Are you replacing the Fuel pump also?Are you just throwing parts at it?
 
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As posted in some of my past threads. I bought a supposedly new 33% Industrial Injection pump from a guy on eBay. Got it installed with a streetmax x and the truck ran at first for a few minutes with a bad fuel knock and then it just stopped. The pump did look brand new and had never been installed. So I had it towed thinking it may be something else since after all it was a new pump and I had installed the turbo at the same time. The company I towed it to determined it was the pump and swapped back in the original and the truck started. Once I got it home I immediately installed a new 2015 pump. A few days later I got a code for the fuel rail sensor back of rail, drivers side. Swapped sensor and code went out for a day then back on. I kept thinking it was the tunes but it wasn't. Then I checked the fuel pumps top sensor and saw some fine fuel contamination. Not a lot but a little so I swapped the drivers side fuel rail with a new one and removed and flushed the passenger side rail. Code went away but by then I'm sure some metal had probably gotten to the injectors because prior to all that my balance rates were all with like +0 .2 and -0.2. All were really close. When I pulled off the rails I drained them and found a little very fine shavings, not like chips but like fine metal dust. Then right after all this the injectors started to read more and more out of whack. Finally a week or so ago I got a code for injector 6 balance rate and checked it again and found it would go up to +4.5 when I idled. Others read 2.0, -2.0, and similar so I figure it's time to swap the injectors out. I've checked this new 2015 pumps top sensor a few times over the past few months and there's never been any contamination so it's fine. I do have 210k miles on the original injectors also. I did finally get my money back from eBay but never was able to contact the guy who sold it to me. He just never responded to me or ebay so they sided with me. I still have the pump and called industrial injection about it but they said they can't warranty it since it wasn't sold to me by an authorized dealer. Can't blame them really but it sucks. They said if I mailed it to them and paid them they'd see what the issue was and possibly fix it but from what I've heard they may not last long even when they do work. The injector 6 code has since gone back off but I figured I'd go ahead and swap them.
 
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The kit i bought came with the o rings, crush washers, bolts, and hard lines. Only other things I bought separately were the 8 injector to valve cover seals. Parts number BC3Z-6C535-A.
 

sootie

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As posted in some of my past threads. I bought a supposedly new 33% Industrial Injection pump from a guy on eBay. Got it installed with a streetmax x and the truck ran at first for a few minutes with a bad fuel knock and then it just stopped. The pump did look brand new and had never been installed. So I had it towed thinking it may be something else since after all it was a new pump and I had installed the turbo at the same time. The company I towed it to determined it was the pump and swapped back in the original and the truck started. Once I got it home I immediately installed a new 2015 pump. A few days later I got a code for the fuel rail sensor back of rail, drivers side. Swapped sensor and code went out for a day then back on. I kept thinking it was the tunes but it wasn't. Then I checked the fuel pumps top sensor and saw some fine fuel contamination. Not a lot but a little so I swapped the drivers side fuel rail with a new one and removed and flushed the passenger side rail. Code went away but by then I'm sure some metal had probably gotten to the injectors because prior to all that my balance rates were all with like +0 .2 and -0.2. All were really close. When I pulled off the rails I drained them and found a little very fine shavings, not like chips but like fine metal dust. Then right after all this the injectors started to read more and more out of whack. Finally a week or so ago I got a code for injector 6 balance rate and checked it again and found it would go up to +4.5 when I idled. Others read 2.0, -2.0, and similar so I figure it's time to swap the injectors out. I've checked this new 2015 pumps top sensor a few times over the past few months and there's never been any contamination so it's fine. I do have 210k miles on the original injectors also. I did finally get my money back from eBay but never was able to contact the guy who sold it to me. He just never responded to me or ebay so they sided with me. I still have the pump and called industrial injection about it but they said they can't warranty it since it wasn't sold to me by an authorized dealer. Can't blame them really but it sucks. They said if I mailed it to them and paid them they'd see what the issue was and possibly fix it but from what I've heard they may not last long even when they do work. The injector 6 code has since gone back off but I figured I'd go ahead and swap them.

rip your entire fuel system apart and flush it. Doing it one part at a time is like chasing your tail. as soon as that engine idles there is contamination everywhere.
 
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What do you mean by flush it? I was thinking the pump installed now would be fine since it doesn't have any metal in its sensor and the fuel rails are clean. I also figured if there is some metal in the injectors then it will stay in them or if cycled back through then it would get filtered again before going to the hpfp. Also the amount of contamination was a very small amount.
 
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These are my balance rates as of today with the foreseen app. They seem to have gotten a little better.
1 -0.93 2 -0.55 3 2.15 4 -0.18 5 1.76 6 -3.15 7 0.51 8 0.31
 
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