My f250hd trail/ desert truck. 3link front 4 link rear coilovers and etc...

Dieselboy

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Guess I should transfer my build over here too.
Plans are D60 front, 10.25 rear, cage, boat side, back halved, 3 link front, 4 link rear. Once the cab and chassis are done ill take the 7.3 powerstroke / E4od/ 4407 from the current truck and swap them into this thing.



This got dropped off on Friday

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Gutted it. Pulled the bed, fuel tanks, front clip and not shown but I pulled the front beams, and a/c heater box. I then pressure washed it inside and out.
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More pics of the interior and cleaned/ gutted truck on Monday as I towed it down to the shop I work at.
I haven't ever seen these floor plates before. My truck has collapsed around where the seats are and the passenger side has a good lean going on.
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Im going to be using the "better" newer heater box assy.
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strip the rear axle tubes down. **** grinding the stock spring perches off. I grabbed my biggest sledge hammer and they came right off after a few good hits.
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Test fit the Artec truss
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Weld the truss together.. And weld.. and weld...
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Dieselboy

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Overheated the welder oops.
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Then more welding... This time to the axle housing
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I can tell when its getting hot. It doesn't burn as hot. Ill usually stop and give it a break but i was on a roll lol..

I mocked up the suspension tonight and ran the numbers. Im a 4 link noob so please be nice.

Upper links are 51" lowers 48"
I can't get it under 117% antisquat. I have adjustable uppers and thats the highest point.
130 middle and 143 lowest
roll center is at 29 and frame height is at 28.

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Ok so I changed the frame side and got some more link separation to try to get the antisquat down a little.

Now I get 84.67 on the top holes 97.68 on the center and 110 on the lower position.

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Oh and rough guesstimate of wheelbase is like 125"
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Tomorrow ill get some material for sliders
 

Dieselboy

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Welded a lower link together.
2" .25 DOM sleeved with 2.5'' .25 box.
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cut cut cut cut
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ended up being about 9" off
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I left about 1" to the bottom of the door when the window is all the way down. This pic sucks but its looking up into the bottom of the door
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This was hard to cut.
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2x6 slider tacked into place
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I hate welding sheet metal
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Found out that the cab corner has a bunch of bondo on it.
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Gave the door a little extra clearance
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I hate welding sheet metal
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Welded another lower link together and just for fun I weighed it
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Yes that reads 46lbs lol. 48" center to center
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Dieselboy

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Yesterday I got 200 ft of 1.75" .120 tube.
I boatsided the passenger side and put the slider on.
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Then the fun part.. This took for****ingever
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Dieselboy

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Got my ultimate quart crate from Artec today..
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Got a artec Dana60 front truss and a few tabs

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Got my shocks. Fox 2.5x 16 "custom valving" front and rear.

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Drilled out the hundred spot welds on the fender to seperate the inner and outer.
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Made a lower shock mount
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This is about where the upper shock mount is going to go.
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Full bump
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Close to where the fueltank will mount.
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Dieselboy

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Ok I lied I got stuff don't today at work so I spent a few hours working on this thing today.

I took 12" out of the tailgate and a lot off the bed sides lol. This is just kinda hanging there lol.
Draw on tailgate racking brain on how to get equal spacing in the letters when done
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Cut it apart in a way that looks like a bowtie lol
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Weld It back together the best I can. I hate thin metal
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Almost full bump
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Getting a idea of how it will look.
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Left over bed pieces lol
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Still gotta cut the passenger skin up.
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Full bump.
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It's hard to show the dove tail with a camera.
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Going back down to the shop to work on it some more now.
 

Dieselboy

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Man this fabrication stuff takes forever.
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Making sure the shocks clear
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Test fit one of the seats. They almost bolt in lol.
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Added a few braces to the rear and make some quick brackets for the fuel tank.
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Plated in the frame by the steering box
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Cut off the front bottom of the crossmember and welded the crossmember into the frame. Cut out the leaf spring stuff and gasser motor mount plates.
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Dieselboy

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Welded the truss on
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Going to use some 3/8" to make the steering double shear and brace the knuckle a little too.
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Pull the front clip
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Remembered that you can't pull the engine and trans together so I pulled the 4 bolts and took the cab off.
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Going to make my own regulated return electric fuel system. Also going to make my own bellowed up pipes to fix the small leak.
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or just find the T444E bellowed up pipes?

Lol yeah for 8-900$

Pulled the engine and trans. (I love my crane) then pressure washed the crap out of them (not pictured)
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This was the main oil leak I had
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Cast iron tail housing/ tcase adapter from a 02 f350
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Just FYI it is possible, but you have to pull the transmission crossmember (or cut it).:flipoff2:

With a diesel? I've tried and you can't rock them back because the turbo/ heads hits the firewall and the oil pan binds on the crossmember.
I gutted the valley and cut the head off a dt466 piston to use it as a mount for my fuel pressure regulator and to hold the plug in the old fuel pump hole.
I also got everything to convert to a van turbo so when I got the funds I can bolt a gtp38r in place.
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Dieselboy

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I need a set of 3" intakes.
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Made the 1/4" in to 1/8" x2 piece myself as I couldn't find anything I liked that kept it tidy.
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Once I get the 3" intakes ill sort this out.
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It was a thought.
Got my bellowed up pipes and ebv delete resistor. Resealed my oil cooler too. Just a few little things till I drop it in and start front tube work. I do need a stock v band for the turbo inlet and compressor outlet if anyone has one.
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Fixed a broken exhaust bolt with a stud.
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Dieselboy

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Built my own intake setup and ill drop the engine in today
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Did some work finally. I need to plate in the frame on the upper link but everything is tacked in place and has been cycled a few times. I had to move the panhard as close to the truss as I could. The panhard rod and steering are exactly the same length. They're really close to the same angle too. I measured the full droop and the steering heims max out at about 17" and I'm going to strap it around 15". Lower links are about 34" and the upper is about 44". It looks like it keeps the pinion angle really good throughout travel.

I cut in the passenger side bumpstop and I'll get the drivers side done later. I'm taking a break.
Full bump
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Full droop
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Got the drivers side bump in. I still need to plate to outer part of the bump pad and add a gusset inside first. I put this side lower as where it hits the truss is lower and the steering shaft is in the way.
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It moves like 3/8" during the 4" of bumpstop travel.
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Dieselboy

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Got the front sitting on the coilovers. I'll tie them in a lot but right now with 300x16" over 350x18" coils there's 10" up travel. I still have to add a bunch of tube and the trans/ tcase and the cooling system. I got a intercooler from a superduty that I'll be adding to the front too.
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So much crap to clean up. I still need to box the bump pad in
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Dieselboy

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Ok that's where I'm at right now. I'm sure is confusing because of the copy paste.
 

Dieselboy

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Possible but I doubt it. Next weekend is koh so I won't work on it next weekend at all.
 

JD3020

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Wow, all i gotta say is you have some incredible fab skills! That thing looks kick ass!

Did pain me to see so many clean OBS parts cut up though. LOL
 

Dieselboy

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So I'm trying to figure out what injectors to go with. I think the 238/100 seems to be my best bet. My e40d has a billet triple lock converter, billet input shaft, and all steel 6 pinion planets in it. The non wastegated van turbo with my obs compressor wheel should be able to handle the fuel. My hpop seems to be a healthy one making 3200psi any time. The e fuel should be able to support a lot.


My options are
Ac codes (160cc?)
Ac with nozzles (?cc)
238/100
Don't think I really need to go bigger as 400hp would be plenty for now.
 

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