Torque Converter Nut Removal 5R110

Finally in the process of pulling the 6.0 from my 04 to do a rebuild on the engine. Obviously during the process I had to remove the 6 Torque Converter nuts.

My question is what is the easiest way to remove said nuts? I removed the rubber grommet from the adapter on the block to access the bolts. It was a pain in the a$$ to sneak a 14mm socket, with a 1" extension in with a ratchet. Then i could only back the nut off half way to then smack the ratchet with a hammer to remove it because it was wedged against the oil pan, and then finish removing the nut by squeezing my fingers up in to back it off the rest of the way. I guess I am used to my 12 Valve which has an access cover on the side of the adapter plate which you can easily access and remove the converter nuts.

Is there a special socket, or tool that i can use when it comes time for the re-install? I just can't fathom that 'by the book' is bottoming a ratchet against the oil pan and smacking it out with a hammer.

i did it thru the inspection cover with normal tools and didnt have any issues as described. I can remember if i used a ratchet or a gear wrench tho...

sootie said:

i did it thru the inspection cover with normal tools and didnt have any issues as described. I can remember if i used a ratchet or a gear wrench tho...

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The inspection cover on the bottom of the adapter plate correct? That's what I was referring to where I removed the rubber grommet from. About 2" tall and 4" long?

I used a 3/8 snap on flex head ratchet, 1" craftsman extension and 14mm shallow craftsman socket. If I removed the 1" extension, the socket won't bottom out on the nut enough to allow me to loosen it, since it sits back about an inch or so from the adapter housing.

Have to use a medium depth socket or use the hole on the drivers side half way up the rear cover. its easy to get to with long extensions from the front if you are pulling the motor out and have the front removed.

Cutting-Edge Diesel said:

Have to use a medium depth socket or use the hole on the drivers side half way up the rear cover. its easy to get to with long extensions from the front if you are pulling the motor out and have the front removed.

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Thanks! I was wondering if a medium deep socket would do the trick. But I'll be sure to look for the hole on the drivers side this weekend when i get back at it.

Flex head ratchet with short 14mm socket or double flex head gear wrench

As syated a semi deep works great. Before i bought one, i used a shallow socket and just put the ratchet in until the ball on the head stopped it, so the ratchet head was only in about half way in the socket, worked fairly decent until there were some tight as ***. As for the inspection hole on the side, i have never had good luck with that one. It is a pain in the ass for me to line them up to be able to get.them.

Only down side to the hole in the rear cover is that the early build motors it seems the hole isnt big enough. Nothing a carbide bit to the top of the hole cant fix, but it is a pain.

6.0 Tech said:

As syated a semi deep works great. Before i bought one, i used a shallow socket and just put the ratchet in until the ball on the head stopped it, so the ratchet head was only in about half way in the socket, worked fairly decent until there were some tight as ***. As for the inspection hole on the side, i have never had good luck with that one. It is a pain in the ass for me to line them up to be able to get.them.

Only down side to the hole in the rear cover is that the early build motors it seems the hole isnt big enough. Nothing a carbide bit to the top of the hole cant fix, but it is a pain.

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Good info, thanks! I picked up a semi-deep 14mm from the Snap-On guy yesterday. Ill be using that for re-assembly when the engine gets back from the machine shop.

Thanks for the input guys

I go through the big port on the drivers side of the block.
Used a couple long extensions, and got them from the front of the engine bay...easy peasy.