I went and pulled these sections from the notes I had written up doing my first few injector swaps. If I have something out of order or typo'd sorry about that. Like I said I pulled parts here and there from my notes that I thought my be helpful.
Swamps has a good instruction set for doing injectors as well:
Swamps Diesel Performance: Tips to help remove and install Power Stroke injectors
Cover any holes in the head that nuts bolts GP etc could fall down in and create a much bigger project.
Remove the oil deflectors from all the injectors or you can do them one at a time as you go. 5mm Hex key or socket
Pull the back/rear injector on each side: 8mm socket 1/4" socket
When you can pull the first one I as quickly as possible stuff a clean rag down in the hole of each. You will likely need to replace it but I end up preventing almost all but a 1-2 tablespoons of oil from going into the cylinder. (I vacuum it out and thats about all I get out)
The issue is if you do not vacuum it out the only way to clean out the piston bowl is to crank the engine over with the starter. From someone that has watched it shoot out of the GP port without the VC on it comes out with surprising velocity. I bet it would sting if you got hit with the stream with a good starter and batteries. LOL So if you are going to not suck the oil out make sure the VC is back in place.
Clean up each injector port very well (the cup specifically). If there is heavy buildup in the cups from a bad copper washer seal use a wire bore brass/copper bristle brush to clean it. They do make specific brushes for this. Do not use anything sharp to scrape etc as the cup is soft and will scratch and dent which is not good. Make sure you count a copper washer on each injector you pull to ensure you did not leave one behind. Still do a visual and inspection in each port to be sure no washer got left in. Carefully inspect each cup from top to bottom for any cracks, pits, deep scratches etc..
Once again just a reminder to cover any holes in the head were bolts nuts or Gp could fall down into. Takes no time, so simple, and may not be needed but.......
Pull all the glow plugs. 10mm deep-well 1/4" socket A 6" piece of 1/4" hose. Once you have loosened the GP almost the all the way push the hose end onto the GP tip firmly. Finish spinning the GP the last couple turns with the hose and pull out with the hose. (This is a god-send for big guerrilla hands on the removal/install)
Check each injector port one last time for debris and being clean. Give it a good wipe with a clean rag and not one that drops lint everywhere.
Oil up each injector body and o-rings before you install it. Carefully line up the injectors with the port and let it slide in until the first o-ring hits the cup side and you feel firm resistance. I seat it in carefully lining it up as far as it will go with just hand power. At that point then get up over it with the heel of your hand and body weight over it shove down on it with your body weight. Basically "bump" it in. Just make sure you are pushing down inline with the port hole. You will almost always hear a pop or thunk as the injector hits the bottom of the cup. If you do not feel that thud as it bottoms out get a plastic body dead blow hammer or other soft head hammer. Give it a couple solid not crazy power hits. It should seat.
(You can confirm with a straight edge cross the tops of the injectors.)
Once a injector is seated and you have dropped down the hold down clamp, I like to grab it and slightly rotate it to recenter it and line it up perfectly with the hold down bolt hole.
Install the hold down bolt. Torque down the bolt to the spec of 10ftlb / 120inlb /13.5Nm. I like to still give the top of the injector a light wrap with the dead blow and then retq the bolt one last time. It can make a difference.
( Note: I check the top bolts as well. retq the top bolts as well to confirm.)
Install the Oil deflectors. 9ftlb/108inlb 5mm Hex Key or Socket 1xRetq.
take all the towels etc off the head, anything blocking holes etc.. With the GP still out install the VC back on the heads with a few easy to get to bolt locations. (no wiring hooked up etc) Its up to you..... I hand crank the engine over a few times by hand. 24mm 1/2" -3/4" socket long wrench or bar. Then since no vacuum crank the engine over for 15 seconds via the starter. You could just starter crank it from the get go as the GP are out but IMO its best to get what will come out under much lower pressure and vel by hand turning first. Like I said up to you.....
FYI just by hand cranking with no GP or injectors in I was able to shoot one of the towels in a injector port out and across the driveway.
Pull VC.
Clean up any mess from the oil.
Install the GPs. Use the 6" piece of 1/4" hose pushed over the GP tip securely. Using it to start the threads. I spin them till the hose will not turn them any more. Pull it off and go to the 10mm deep well 1/4" socket. Torque to 14ftlb/163inlb/19Nm 1xRetq
Now hand turn over the engine again. With the cylinder now buttoned up, while harder, it should turn over. I do it for one full cycle so I know each piston has gone to TDC and there is no hydro locking going on.
If everything is good. Hook up all the UVCH connections, Do one final check on everything i.e run a striaght edge one last time check any bolts you feel the need to for tq etc..... Finally button up the VC and connect the main wiring harness.
Pull the ICP sensor drivers side and either unhook one HPOP hose line from the head connector or the closest to the front oil rail plug on the passenger side. Whatever is closest to the front. Fill each up with oil until its to the threads edge. Reinstall the plug or hose ends.
Pull the inspection plug or EOP sensor from the top of the HPOP Reservoir. Fill it up with oil. Reinstall. Crank the engine over a couple times. Pull and refill. Do that a couple times.
Hook up anything left that had to come off to get to the injectors etc...
Crank for 30 second periods until the engine fires. With good batteries and starter it should lite in the first two tries. If not check the HPOP res to make sure its full.
FYI I found its much easier to install the UVCH as well as get the VC in and out on the passenger side by first pulling the V belt and unbolting and setting aside the AC compressor. You would be surprised at how much that clears up room and its only 4 bolts. DO yourself a favor and put anti seize on those bolt thread and shafts. They are long bolts going into alum and galling and rust seizing happens a lot.
If you have trouble getting the VC bolts that are up against the firewall started and tightened a trick that works for me.... First use a wobbly or 360 swivel socket or adapter if at all possible but beyond that use a piece or two of duct tape to hold the bolt in the socket. This will allow you to start it by hand with the socket and then get the wrench on it.
