6.0 slow to build icp to crank when cold possible dummy plug o ring failed

08strokerh&s

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Okay well I guess it was only a matter of time, my beloved 6.0 has what I think is a bad dummy plug o ring, I drove it 2 hours to my girlfriends moms on Christmas Day and it sat till the next day and I went to start it around lunch to head home and it seemed to have a long start probably 6-7 secs, I drove it home and everything looked good, stopped at my dads first and shut it off, it sat maybe 40 mins and it started back fine, drove it home and turned it off, well next morning it has a long start again, so I drive to the farm turn it off and decide when I get done with work I'll start it watching the icp, so I get my livewire on and the icp duty is at 14 key on, ficm volts all look good and I go to start it and it's like the icp pressure took 5 secs to get built up past 500 to start, everything looks good though after it starts, I drive 30 mins turn it off for 4 mins go to start again and get the tuner on so I can watch it and it builds icp perfectly in like 2-3 secs the normal time, now I drive home and park it start it again this morning and yet again a decent amount of time to finally make enough icp pressure, I can put the starting videos on YouTube if that would help, I have no hot start issues and everything looks good when warm idles at 580 and icp is at 21 at idle
 

08strokerh&s

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really at a lose, i dont see anything anywhere else pointing to that, i really dont want to order the dummy plug and will probably get the stand pipe kit too since ill already be in there, but id like some others opinion before biting the bullet.
 

BS Hauler

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I have an 06 with 83,000 miles and it is just like yours. I think they are both normal. Mine sits a lot for days and it seems to take about 5 to 6 seconds to start after it sits for days. But starts right up after you have run it. I think with all the o-rings in the hpop system and they start to get a little long in the tooth they seem to seep when they sit and it takes a little to fill the rail up again. Someday I am going to go thru and re o-ring the whole system. Mine is a factory original yet.
 

2015sixohno

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Kinda tough to say where the exact issue is located. You could air leak the oil system when the truck is HOT and listen ( keep in mind it may take 10 minutes for the leak to show up ) but at a minimum just order the stand tubes and dummy plugs. If they haven't been don't it's not if they are bad it's when. When you have the oil rails off the injectors CLEAN the top of each injector and inspect O rings where the nipples of the oil rail seat in. These are very prone to failure and will also cause your problem. Another recommendation is to just replace the IPR ( easier to get to with ficm out of the way ). All of these are just to common to fail to not just replace for piece of mind. Every 6.0 that comes in my shop gets these basics at a minimum if they have starting issues. If you can't find anything under the valvecovers the STC on the high pressure pump is the next place I start looking. Hope this helps !


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2015sixohno

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Yes IPR can be done with turbo on. Just need the IPR socket (15 bucks at a Napa) a swivel and a 6 inch extension. Bad IPR doesn't cause extended crank ( or at least I've never seen one cause that ) they are either good or bad. Just fail enough for me to warrant changing them when I don't know the history of them or mileage that's all.


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