Cold start issue I can't put my finger on

superduty4x4

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Hoping someone has a bright idea that hasn't crossed my mind yet. 97 F350, stock turbo, stage 1's, Tyrant tunes, new GPR, GP's ohm test OK. It's been struggling to cold start for a while now, even in the warmer months. Of course as it got colder, the issue got worse. I noticed battery voltage was dropping hard at KOEO, and on a cold morning the combo of running the GP's and trying to crank was causing the voltage to drop low enough that my stereo would lose memory. I was seeing a lot of voltage drop across the GPR (Napa GPR109) so I replaced the GPR, and eventually ended up throwing new batteries in it. Spins over super fast now and at KOEO I'm around 11.2 volts.
Still struggling on cold starts though, and having it in a tune makes it basically a no-start situation. In the stock tune what usually happens is it will start and go for about 3 "blop blop blops" then die, if I turn the key back off, then back on and try to start it will usually fire. This morning when I tried to start it, it was about 20 degrees out, truck hadn't been run since Friday evening and it really struggled to start. It started once and ran super crappy for about 10 seconds, barely enough RPM to keep itself alive, then died. When I tried to restart it, it sputtered and coughed quite a while before it finally lit.
My laptop with AE is dead right now and I haven't found my install CD yet so I can't say what ICP or IPR are doing. I know the IPR is old, I've had the truck going on 6 years and I've never replaced it. Same for the ICP. Only known concern is an exhaust leak at the up-pipes, and a rotted EBPS tube.
Any suggestions or ideas?
 

superduty4x4

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What happens if you plug the truck in?

Billy T.
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If I plug it in and let the block heater run 3 hours or so, with one cycle of the GP's it usually fires right up in the stock tune. Hit or miss if I leave my TS chip in the tune I've been driving it in.

What shape is your starter in?

Other than saying it spins over plenty fast with the new batteries, and that I haven't replaced it in the almost 6 years I've owned the truck, I couldn't tell you. Seems to be fine by my standards.

The way it spits and sputters in the AM on a cold start is odd to me, like it's not getting enough fuel. I hate to be that guy, but I might try to get a cold start video tomorrow.
 

superduty4x4

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I've tried a few times to get a good video of what it typically does, and each time it doesn't do what it normally does... go figure. This morning after sitting for a week, with the temp at 13°F, I left it at KOEO for 1.5 minutes before cranking. Lots of cranking and a few pops, but never did fire. I turned the key off, then back on and let the glow plugs heat up again for ~20 seconds, and it fired right up. Super choppy idle and for whatever reason about 970rpm idle speed (unusual for this old turd) but never died.
 

gnxtc2

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The GPs probably cycled off leaving the key on for 1.5 minutes that why it fired the next key cycle. If you want to cycle the GPs, do 30-45 sec key cycles.

The 970 rpm is normal due to the temps. My truck does the same when the temps get that low.

Who's tunes are you running?

Billy T.
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superduty4x4

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The GPs probably cycled off leaving the key on for 1.5 minutes that why it fired the next key cycle. If you want to cycle the GPs, do 30-45 sec key cycles.

The 970 rpm is normal due to the temps. My truck does the same when the temps get that low.

Who's tunes are you running?

Billy T.
[email protected]
GP's were still doing there thing, the voltage gauge hadn't jumped back up yet.

Running older Tyrant tunes. When cold I try to always start in the stock tune. Unplugging the ICP didn't help, it made the choppy idle worse.
 

superduty4x4

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Check the hpop reservoir level after sitting.

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Haven't done that in a while, will do that today.

What is your fuel pressure?

Billy T.
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Fuel PSI gauge swings wildly (always has) anywhere from ~50psi to the stopper at 100psi. It has ALWAYS done this since the gauge was installed almost 5 years ago, did the same in my previous truck (using the same stock fuel pump).
 

crcrawford87

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You have a low oil psi issue or the hpop reservoir is draining down while setting. Watch the oil psi gauge as your cranking
 

superduty4x4

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Pulled the HPO reservoir plug, used whatever size allen wrench removes the plug to drop down into the res to check oil level... not a drop of oil on it. I feel dumb... so if my HPO reservoir is bleeding down, I have either an HPOP or HPOP gasket issue correct? HPOP hasn't been touched since I swapped it 6 years ago, gasket was new at that time and I'm 99% sure the IPR hasn't been touched or removed since the pump swap. Running a TE modded 17° HPOP that is going on 7-8 years old now.
FWIW, oil changed within the last 100-150 miles, oil level is within the crosshatch on the dipstick maybe 1/4" above the "add" mark so that shouldn't be the issue.
 
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gnxtc2

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Or bad injector o-rings.

Remove the HPOP oil lines from the head and rig them up so they stay above the reservoir overnight. If the reservoir remain full, then you know it's injector related. If it drains, then you have to inspect the HPOP for bleed issue.

Billy T.
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Jomax

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Or bad injector o-rings.

Remove the HPOP oil lines from the head and rig them up so they stay above the reservoir overnight. If the reservoir remain full, then you know it's injector related. If it drains, then you have to inspect the HPOP for bleed issue.

Billy T.
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Never thought of doing that, thanks for the idea!


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