Opinions on RSK??

I don't know about where you are but here in the rusty north east dana 60's are getting easy to come by since the trucks are getting so rusty they are not fixing them. They go quick in junkyards but there at least 5 whole trucks on cl within 200miles some with plows on craigslist for under $2,000. I just wish I had time to buy them and part them out or hoard more parts.

Trucks don't Rust here in the Pacific NW as well. So D60 axles typically run about $1k

Your lucky no rust it's sad to see these trucks totally rusted out. The average going rate for a kp 60 is 400-500. Sadly the supply will soon dry up like the 78-9 dana 60 is getting hard to get lots were bought up by the jeep crowd.

caster doesnt look to be your issue.
trac bar is tight? steering stabilizer functional?
the image looks to show new tierod ends

Truck is at the shop for alignment today. I asked them for a before/after printout, and to set the caster on the high side. We will see how it pans out. I'll drive it, see how it has improved then look at my steering shaft and steering box for play.

I think I will install my sway bars to help with some body roll.

Further out, I need to swap in Super Duty rear leafs and air bags. A few friends have complained that the ride in the back seat from a rigid rear suspension creates a harsh ride - makes sense - I have soft Super Duty leafs up front, but the rear springs are factory OBS with at least 1 add-a-leaf per side that the previous owner had installed. Just turning into incline/decline driveways from the road, you can tell that 90% of my suspension articulation is in the front.

Also, I may swap to U codes up front. The ride is good, but I wouldn't mind a slight decrease in height, not to mention an even softer ride, as I barely fit into my garage right now by maybe 3/8". Once I get new tires, or there is snow on the ground, I will hit.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but an RSK should increase positive caster, not decrease it? Here's to hoping the alignment solves the death wobble and some of the wondering and funny steering that the truck was doing.

Too much caster and you won't be able to turn the truck. High caster increases straight line stability but takes away turning. Parallel parking will be a b!tch. For a drag car, we have high caster numbers. For a daily driver, you need to have a happy medium.

Billy T.
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I was thinking like 4.5° or so. I didn't know what the spec was on the trucks so I asked them to at least set it at the high end of the range.

I'm surprised that I haven't gotten a call that its ready for pick up yet.

The guy doing the alignment said the high end of the caster spec was 3.5° but he did as high as he felt comfortable with.. 4.3°, because I asked.

His comment after aligning and test driving was that I really need to do something with my steering gear box next. I think I'll check the steering shaft and box for play tonight and maybe make an 1/8 turn of adjustment, test drive, and repeat if necessary.

Of course I'll still look into a sway bar anyways.

Billy, do you have a steering stabilizer on your truck? I can't remember if you've told me or if I have seen it posted.

Yes on the steering stabilizer.

Check the pitman arm for tightness. I had a weird wandering issue and was to get a full turn on the steering box nut. Tightened the nut and the wandering went away.

You're going to get the truck re-aligned after you do the rear springs. You need to make sure the rear axle is square. If the rear axle is not square, the front alignment is going to fight you.

Billy T.
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Thanks... what stabilizer kit do you have?

As far as the pitman arm tightness, what do you mean? Just play in the sweep of movement that the box moves it? I did 1/8th of a turn on the steering box, but I decided to wait until tomorrow when I can have someone turning the wheel while I watch the steering shaft to the box.

I'll get the truck re-aligned, but chances are it'll be down the road a little ways.

I have to thank you for all of the replies and help you've given me, both in the RSK but also the turbo conversations, etc. If I ever meet you, I owe you a few beers.

I believe I have a Rancho one.

Make sure the pitman arm is tight on the splines. Check the big nut at the end. Also, grab the pitman and check if the bearings inside the steering box are shot.

Billy T.
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So, my pitman arm nut was loose. I tightened it up at least 2 complete revolutions. I know that I torqued it to "forum specs" last year. I haven't driven it since tightening, a mechanic friend was picking it up to borrow it when we found that issue. He said that it is hugely improved since last time he drove it, but isn't perfect yet. He said that when going straight over bumps it gets a little bump steer, but when going around turns and bumps, there is no bump steer - maybe because the steering components are loaded? So he thinks I need a steering stabilizer.

However, we also found that my intermediate steering shaft has a LOT of play. When you move the steering wheel back and forth, the slip joint has enough play that it pops side to side. I will get that replaced along with my steering column bearings before I worry further about replacing the steering gearbox.

Billy, do you have a sway bar? I have been searching through your posts for info on that. I can't remember if you do.

I guess I'm mixed about the prospect of a sway bar vs steering stabilizer since it seems there are clearance issues trying to run both - although I know I've read many times that the track bar bracket and sway bar can hit unless PMF has made Tom S's offset track bar bracket their standard design? I emailed Trevor this morning to ask..

I think especially once I run softer SD rear springs, my body roll will be excessive enough to justify sway bars. Maybe the bump steer will be tolerable after all of the steering components are replaced and tight.

Is there anyone successfully running the PMF Track Bar bracket (3" drop), sway bar, AND a steering stabilizer? - Either PMF or Rancho stabilizer? What did it take to do?

I swear I try not to be long winded.

Replace the steering shaft with a borgeson shaft

Thanks for the tip. That was my plan. Found a few for $225 shipped, new.

In case anyone is interested, this is the cheapest I found the Borgeson shafts by at least $50. Ordered mine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291813769561?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I have a sway bar, adjustable trac bar, drop pitman arm and stabilizer.

For your bump steer issue...you want the drag link to be the same angle as the trac bar. The trac bar bracket is OEM with the SKY drop bracket. I had to space the trac bar bracket back to clear the sway bar. Also, the threads sticking pass on the U-bolt needed to be cut.









Billy T.
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Thank you for the pictures and description Billy. We got my Borgeson steering shaft in tonight. The steering is much tighter. I'm not sure if it is the crown of the road (I mean I KNOW that that is a factor) but the truck still wants to drift around. There doesn't seem to be much play.

I am going to remove the track bar and drive it. I think somehow my track bar is fighting me. When the front suspension loads or unloads, the truck is pulling left and right. I've done the track bar adjustment procedure before. Also, the truck does need a steering stabilizer. I think it would help prevent small bumps in the road from being felt in the steering as much as they are. Will update again after I get this stuff sorted out.

Do NOT remove the trac bar, your life might depend on it. You WILL get death wobble. I tried it and almost wrecked on the highway when I hit a bump at 50 and the truck went into death wobble. The only to stop death wobble it to slow down.

Billy T.
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I meant that I'd remove it for a quick test drive to isolate what problems are related to it and which aren't.

I had a sloppy Trac bar and had severe death wobble

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