Engines out, what to do

Is there a better way to.fill the cooling system after a engine.removal? I have patience but is there a way to.force coolant through easier? Fill it with the drains out to help get air moving? Im not.a.total moron but I am being serious right.now.

907DAVE said:

I would take a peek at the downpipe, sounds like it may just be contacting the frame or body someplace. It could be that once a bit of load it put on the motor, it shifts over a bit and and I the clearance issues opens up a bit....if that makes any sense.

If you cannot find any issues there double check the converter nuts. If that looks fine try shooting a bit of WD-40 between the converter and flex plate if you can. Chances are you didn't lube the "nose" of the converter, that will cause some interesting noises as the converter/ flex plate flexes with rpm.

Click to expand...

Can a guy use regular chassis grease on the face of the convertor to.help.soften the metal on metal contact? White lithium?

I've thought about the engine moving slightly and causing the DP to hit, as its very tight in an OBS. May just yank it out tomorrow and see if the noise goes away.

I did not lube the nose of the converter, never touched it other than to make sure it was still fully seated when we pulled the engine out. I'll spray some WD up in there as well. I changed the oil yesterday and checked a couple of the converter bolts and they were all tight, as well as the bellhousing bolts.

An air lift is the most efficient way of refilling a cooling system. Basically it draws a vacuum on the system, then the coolant is pushed into it. Very minimal air remains using this method. An old school trick is to stick an aspirin in the thermostat, this holds it open to allow air to escape and dissolves when its full.

You don't need to grease the face of the converter, just the hub. It will actually flex in and out depending on engine load/ rpm.

interesting, a couple of tips in here I hadn't thought of

Ive done the aspirin trick.before but never thought of greasing the converter hub. Thanks dave!

Ill see.about an air lift. One more quick'n! If you pulled your motor and the residual moisture left in the cooling passages turned orange with rust what would you use to clean that out? Or just put it back and move on? Will any flush additives get rid of it?

I flushed the system with some of the radiator flush stuff from NAPA, may not be the most ideal thing in the world but it got the job done, and my engine is running at its normal temps and i've got great heat in the cab, so nothing is clogged up. My engine was nasty inside, and the water that came out of it was horrible. Looked like a really really bad chocolate milk. And it smelled horrible. But i doubt i still got the system that clean even with more than 15 gallons of distilled plus some tap water. Planning on adding a coolant filter and may do another flush this fall.


And i've solved the bad rattle at shut-down. Finally quit raining this morning so right before class i crawled under and got to looking. Sure enough the damn bolts for the downpipe flange were just hanging, lost both nuts. LOL


But i've still got a faint grinding sound at idle out of gear, i've got the inspection plate off today and it sounds like its coming from the converter. The downpipe doesn't appear to be rubbing anywhere although i noticed i've got a horrible vibration in the brake pedal, which i had noticed when i first installed my exhaust a few years back and the DP was rubbing.

Converter bolts are tight, nothing appears to be rubbing, truck is still shifting and driving fine. Makes noise when i'm coasting with the converter unlock, as soon as i get back in the throttle or it locks, no noise.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgE2rH44YzE&feature=youtu.be

And i just ran across this vid, of Billys truck. His sounds very similar, but more pronounced.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=_KMjWlIjpzs&feature=endscreen