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  #11  
Old 02-12-2013, 05:09 PM
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On my regular cab there are 6 cab bolts. The two in the engine bay are near where the radiator goes and were 18mm on my truck. You'll need a deep well.

Then there are 4 inside the cab. The front ones are under the mat/carpet on the angled part of the floorboard. Just pull the mat/carpet back and pull out the rubber access plug.

The rear ones are behind the seat just under the mat/carpet and have no access plug. You will see the bolt heads when you pull the mat/carpet back.

For whatever reason, the interior driver's side bolts are 24mm while the interior passenger side ones are 21mm. You will need a deep well or extensions for the front ones as they are recessed in the floor pan.

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The FORDOTA, '86 Toyota reg cab tube chassis to be powered by a 6.0 Powerstroke; finally back in progress

'03 F250 Reg Cab Short Bed 4x4, ZMBYKLR, 946rwlt (rear wheel llama thrust), 10.38 @ 129.60, Truck Source Diesel, Warren Diesel, Gardner Racing, Diesel Innovations

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Last edited by imelmo; 02-12-2013 at 08:14 PM.
  #12  
Old 02-12-2013, 05:11 PM
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TA DAAA!!!








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The FORDOTA, '86 Toyota reg cab tube chassis to be powered by a 6.0 Powerstroke; finally back in progress

'03 F250 Reg Cab Short Bed 4x4, ZMBYKLR, 946rwlt (rear wheel llama thrust), 10.38 @ 129.60, Truck Source Diesel, Warren Diesel, Gardner Racing, Diesel Innovations

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  #13  
Old 02-12-2013, 05:14 PM
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I only forgot 3 things but was able to catch them as the cab was going up.

One was an electrical connector between the frame and cab near the rear of the driver's side door. You can see where it comes out of the cab and runs to the back. Just had to disconnect that.

Then the heater hose that goes on the passenger side near the alternator to the firewall.

And I had to disconnect the lines going to the power steering cooler.

Other than those whcih I was thankfully able to catch before breaking them, it came up just fine.

GO ME!!!

Big thanks to Jason (GRacing) for some tips and advice along the way!



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The FORDOTA, '86 Toyota reg cab tube chassis to be powered by a 6.0 Powerstroke; finally back in progress

'03 F250 Reg Cab Short Bed 4x4, ZMBYKLR, 946rwlt (rear wheel llama thrust), 10.38 @ 129.60, Truck Source Diesel, Warren Diesel, Gardner Racing, Diesel Innovations

.

Last edited by imelmo; 02-12-2013 at 05:25 PM.
  #14  
Old 02-12-2013, 05:19 PM
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Nice job man! Great write-up
  #15  
Old 02-12-2013, 05:22 PM
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Awesome job Danny!!! Like everyone else said - Awesome write up!

Gare.... That's funny as hell!
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2013, 05:50 PM
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for the e brake what i do is first set the parking brake, then i take a pair of vise grips and clamp it to the cable right next to the body mount, then release the parking brake which gives you almost enough slack. then take some long needle nose pliers and right where the cable connects to the frame pull it slightly towards the disconnect bracket. you should have plenty of cable after that to get the bracket off. the kicker here is to leave the vise grips on there until you reconnect it. had someone take them off once and i literally about killed them! also on the later radiators you need a trans line disconnect tool because if you dont the cooler inside the radiator can fall if the nuts on the outside arent holding it up. learned that one the hard way
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  #17  
Old 02-12-2013, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imelmo View Post
Starting on the passenger side (the easy side), I removed the ground strap that goes from the back of the head to the upper firewall. It's an 8mm.

I also removed another ground using an 8mm that comes off the negative battery cable to the fender.

Next I disconnected the black rubber hose from the egr. It goes from the egr to the black mounting bracket near the ac system.

Next I unplugged another sensor (not sure what it is). It's the only one I saw on that side though. It has a single post in it. You just squeeze the connecter and it comes out.
.
this was prob the starter relay wire
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2014 F250, H&S mini, 5" flo pro, s&b intake, egr ******, Amp steps. 8" bds lift on 37" toyos with 24x12 Af wheels. Turbo kit and dual fuelers next. DD truck
06 Single cab f250, 4x4 swap, TSD tunes, Nitto 420's, 240/125 Holders diesel injectors, 71mm Barder turbo, PSE rr, FDP fuel system, stock 5r, NITROUS! Race truck mods to come!2014 NHRDA Sportsmen WORLD CHAMP!
  #18  
Old 02-12-2013, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdunagan View Post
this was prob the starter relay wire


Steve's ebrake cable was a pain.... I just got a hold of the clamp with vice grips, and used a big screw driver to pry the clamp apart and yanked lol.
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  #19  
Old 02-12-2013, 07:24 PM
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i normally dont have any trouble with my method because it give me plenty of slack to get it off and easy to put on
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2014 F250, H&S mini, 5" flo pro, s&b intake, egr ******, Amp steps. 8" bds lift on 37" toyos with 24x12 Af wheels. Turbo kit and dual fuelers next. DD truck
06 Single cab f250, 4x4 swap, TSD tunes, Nitto 420's, 240/125 Holders diesel injectors, 71mm Barder turbo, PSE rr, FDP fuel system, stock 5r, NITROUS! Race truck mods to come!2014 NHRDA Sportsmen WORLD CHAMP!
  #20  
Old 02-12-2013, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdunagan View Post
this was prob the starter relay wire

Probably since it comes off the power wire.

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The FORDOTA, '86 Toyota reg cab tube chassis to be powered by a 6.0 Powerstroke; finally back in progress

'03 F250 Reg Cab Short Bed 4x4, ZMBYKLR, 946rwlt (rear wheel llama thrust), 10.38 @ 129.60, Truck Source Diesel, Warren Diesel, Gardner Racing, Diesel Innovations

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