Should I weld it?

Trying to adapt my T4i to a T6. Got an adapter flange but..... It's for a T4. Couldn't find one for T4i.

Had one stud that had to stay in mount. Had to make the bottom holes wider to fit the T4i dimensions.

Question I have is, should I just weld all the way the perimeter of the flange verses trying to bolt the flange? And leave the gasket out where there would be one? The adapter flange is threaded for bolts and I'll just cut off the last old stud.

I'd weld the sht outta that! Lol

Run a file over the face when it's fully cooled, make sure it's still flat.
Tig would be your best bet.

Yeah I could use a TIG. Even got a Certified pipe fitter who is good friend of the family who can help as well.

Keep the heat input down, seal weld all the way around the tube ends, and clean up the welds with an end grinder, if needed.

I'll get a pic of the finished product.

welding would be best but it will be very difficult to keep the heat down and the mounting plane flat. after it is welded, i would machine the face flat again.

Yeah a file I don't think will cut it I would have it machined flat as well.

Weld around the inside by stitching and moving around to prevent warp as much as possible. The inside will require less weld and help with warping.

Got it welded. The professional welded it. I'll get a pic.

a_moore said:

Weld around the inside by stitching and moving around to prevent warp as much as possible. The inside will require less weld and help with warping.

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Back-step welding is good at distributing the heat better. It is a more specific form of stitch welding which is usually not considered a continuous weld from my experience. Can't wait to see the pics of the finished product.

Oh lord. ^^^


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My post was a little confusing. Stitch welding is generally considered a non continuous weld were as back-stepping is like stitch welding but in a continuous weld sense. Based on the colors it looks a little hot in some places. Straw colored is the lowest on the heat scale so you can see where it was starting to get kind of hot in the blue and purple areas. I think that welding and then re-machining is the best way to do it unless you are tig welding and can control the heat input more precisely.

Magnum PD said:

Oh lord. ^^^

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Looks like it's solid enough. A straight edge across the face to make sure it's still flat, you'll be golden.

I checked it. Not much at all that I can see.

I plan on putting the bolts in and welding them in to fill the holes and taking the sharp edges out as well.

I'll post more pics later.

If you do that, you will probably need to mill the face off flat again.

I had it milled when I stick welded it last time. It was REALLY warped!

Been down that road, eh?
In that case, I'll quit lecturing, as it sounds like your well aware of what to look for.

I could get my t444e gear machined to fit the Haldex pump as well.

Pictures!

Will do.