2017 White Gold

StrokiNDieseL

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2017 F250 Lariat 6.7L w/7K miles so it sounded good.. 14.8K offered for the 6whore with need of hg, ac, oil cooler, body mounts & other bs so it was time to part with her. Been away from site doing the family business thing, raising the brats & taking care of the property takes most my time but I have always checked in for sales on trucks/parts. Hope the PSA fam has been well and good to see the Ol’ timers keeping things in check and most still actively involved spreading knowledge.

Went through the sections of 6.7 (hoping for updated rods) and thinking the diet plan should have started already. Live the dirt road lyfe these days and thinking suspension work 1st, leveling kit with shock upgrades & intake to start. Wife looking over my shoulder as I’m studying routes/options & mentioned that I have a warranty and no need to look at that now :blah: so how long can I wait is the real question. Power loss over 90mph so far is my only complaint & dead pedal! Wasn’t suppose to get a truck as a Kubota L2501 was just purchased last yr and all the toys that come with tractors add up! So now the mod addiction is back to work so the brain will need to figure truck part or implement 🤔😆.
 

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StrokiNDieseL

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You guys think just reducing the rear block from one of vendors will level me? My fox 2.0’s on 6.4 sucked with no rear blocks on this 2mile dirt road is my main reason for hopes of improvement on this 17’.
 

Black AOD

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These trucks have 3" of rear rake factory, roughly. Pulling the rear block will leave you almost dead level, mine almost looked rear low it was so level when I pulled my block. Then I dropped the front with 4800# coils (coming from 5600s) and now I have 1.5" of rear rake again which is what I wanted.

I have King 2.5 resi shocks and for what the truck is, it rides really good for a leaf sprung 1 ton.
 

StrokiNDieseL

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These trucks have 3" of rear rake factory, roughly. Pulling the rear block will leave you almost dead level, mine almost looked rear low it was so level when I pulled my block. Then I dropped the front with 4800# coils (coming from 5600s) and now I have 1.5" of rear rake again which is what I wanted.

I have King 2.5 resi shocks and for what the truck is, it rides really good for a leaf sprung 1 ton.

Thanks, Coming from 4800 springs with no blocks on the 6.4 was gr8 until I moved to dirt road. Threw the 5600’s back after living here for a bit now so I think I like the factory other than horrible forward rake. I don’t mind leveling her with (ouo?) & kings but do you know if track bar needs tackled at the same time?

Also looking overlooking your thread and catching up, she’s still a work truck but healthier/lighter, lol? I ran GH on old so is that still available as I know so much has changed? I know I’ll hit NL for most my needs just rounding up as much info as I can again through the trusted areas that helped me learn in the past.
 

Black AOD

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Thanks, Coming from 4800 springs with no blocks on the 6.4 was gr8 until I moved to dirt road. Threw the 5600’s back after living here for a bit now so I think I like the factory other than horrible forward rake. I don’t mind leveling her with (ouo?) & kings but do you know if track bar needs tackled at the same time?

Also looking overlooking your thread and catching up, she’s still a work truck but healthier/lighter, lol? I ran GH on old so is that still available as I know so much has changed? I know I’ll hit NL for most my needs just rounding up as much info as I can again through the trusted areas that helped me learn in the past.

No track bar needed unless you want to.

It's a work truck that looks like a street truck LOL but it mostly does daily driver activities and hauling trailers around once or twice a month. Yes dleeted it and tooned it with TSD on EZ-LYNk as Josh said above and it has a custom fabricated intercooler piping kit on it with a no limit intake and NL CCV.

I have plans to do a modified drop in 63mm VGT, probably a fleece cheetah or a Taterbilt Turbos unit and also a 10mm exergy cp4 pump and I will be having Warren Diesel do a 6R build for me probably before the end of this year. Other than that, this truck will stay simple.
 

StrokiNDieseL

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No track bar needed unless you want to.

It's a work truck that looks like a street truck LOL but it mostly does daily driver activities and hauling trailers around once or twice a month. Yes dleeted it and tooned it with TSD on EZ-LYNk as Josh said above and it has a custom fabricated intercooler piping kit on it with a no limit intake and NL CCV.

I have plans to do a modified drop in 63mm VGT, probably a fleece cheetah or a Taterbilt Turbos unit and also a 10mm exergy cp4 pump and I will be having Warren Diesel do a 6R build for me probably before the end of this year. Other than that, this truck will stay simple.

Nice plans for sure, looks good btw. Has your trans been good to you or just stepping up as early prevention? Definitely grabbing diet essentials as I might wait til a few “warr miles” have been added to her but want meal plan here just to be ready. Lol I broke all the important hardware free already as so few mile have been put on truck and She was warm while I thought of it to prevent seizing of that bolt. so it’s really a matter of me holding back and listening to the wife LOL.
 

StrokiNDieseL

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Reduction of power (factory), basically anything over 85+. More motor governing out or out of air? The 6.4 just always pulled (I understand it was a bit different than this) and never seemed to quit putting power down when ready to pass the idiot who never gets over. but then again I didn’t EVER push the 6.4L in stock form until weight loss occurred so no real experience for me to compare.
 

Black AOD

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Nice plans for sure, looks good btw. Has your trans been good to you or just stepping up as early prevention? Definitely grabbing diet essentials as I might wait til a few “warr miles” have been added to her but want meal plan here just to be ready. Lol I broke all the important hardware free already as so few mile have been put on truck and She was warm while I thought of it to prevent seizing of that bolt. so it’s really a matter of me holding back and listening to the wife LOL.

Soooooo.....My trans had weird shifts and flares and hiccups even when it was 100% bone stock, tooning it with added HP/TQ has made the trans even unhappier. When it's cold it actually performs great but once it reaches operating temps it does odd things in 2-3 and 3-4 and sometimes even 4-5, the 3-4 shift flare is HORRIBLE.

The 2-3 shift is lazy like it almost doesnt want to shift and 4-5 shift does a weird high rev thing, but this has only happened to me twice in the past 10k miles. The 2-3 and 3-4 issues are an every day thing but I have to be at 50% + TPS to get the 3-4 shift flare, 2-3 is lazy no matter what speed I'm at apparently.

Also, before anybody tries telling me that I can fix all this with tuning, I CAN'T. I've tried. 10 revisions later with Chris @ TSD and 4 different tuner packages from other tuner's and multiple factory TCM resets and relearns....It isn't tuning. It's the trans itself.

The 3-4 shift flare was happening stock, the other two issues did not appear until after I had tooned it.

According to Chris @ TSD, my max effort tune (tune 5 on SOTF) puts me around 550-560whp right now. I run around on tune 3 99% of the time so I'm guessing I'm around 450whp most of the time on that tune.

Doing the Drop in VGT and 10mm cp4 I have planned, I have the ability depending on turbo choice to make up to 700whp on a big tune but to be more realistic lets says 650whp. At that power level, my stock trans is not going to make it, I already know that. That's basically 100+ HP over my max effort now which I rarely go on anyway.

So because of all that garbage above I just spewed out, I plan on having Andy Warren refresh my 6R once it fully gives out with his Street Comp Package which is all new Raybestos GPZ clutches and added counts in forward, direct, intermediates and overdrive. He modifies the pump and valve body for added fluid flow (idk why but he does) and it gets all new OE gaskets and seals and full basic parts refresh and cleaning, the usual stuff. It would come with a new billet Precision Ind. TC as well, they rate these packages for 800 rwhp without any billet internal parts in them. This would be perfect for me for reliability wise driving every day and for the amount I tow.

Fwiw...I don't like how hot my trans runs. Operating temp normally is at like 199* - 205* and even running unloaded at 80-85mph on the highway it can get up to 215*-220* which to me is dumb. When I do the Warren 6R Trans, Dennis @ Strictly Diesel will get my $ for his added trans cooler to go behind my front grille. When I tow heavy ish, the numbers get to a point that I am not OK with at all.

17-19 6R trans sucks compared to 11-16. This much I've figured out. I hope these 2020 6.7L SD's with 10-Speed Auto's pan out to be something worthwhile.

I think Mike D's blue KR truck had trans problems but then again he is lifted and compounded making 725 whp, Jimmy K's truck has trans issues, Jared D's truck has a roasted Trans, mine is always pissy, and I know several more who have had issues. Whatever TCM changes occured in 17+ trucks for the 6R, I know I don't like it and a lot of the big tuner's don't either.
 
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StrokiNDieseL

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Thanks for advice/direction. See good feed back like you seen followed up in this thread. Shelving items for a bit but can’t wait to get going on this platform/newer body style. BTW awaiting the weight reduction is for the wife b/c she thinks I threw the 6.4 warranty in the garbage once d3let3d w/3.5K of ownership last round 🤣.
 

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Black AOD

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http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/member.php?u=16536

Thoughts On King Oem replacement as I see a few of you run them. my dirt road (2.5mi) is poorly maintained so I was looking at these as a replacement with stock front (F250) & a rear block del3t for a better ride For these kids sake/ stance I’m shooting for and was looking for feedback on your dealings if could add?

Hey look, that link goes to my page lol

King 2.5's are nice but it wont alleviate your issues completely on a dirt/gravel road anymore than some nice standard bilstein or fox 2.0s will

I did King's literally for the ONLY reason of my truck is lowered and at the time, they were the only company willing to build me a custom set for my 17+ SD truck

If I was stock height I'd do fox 2.0's for what the price point is on them

If you are looking for ultimate ride quality, it would be full air ride or some crazy coil over setup from King or PMF or whomever. That's big $$$$ tho
 

StrokiNDieseL

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Hey look, that link goes to my page lol

King 2.5's are nice but it wont alleviate your issues completely on a dirt/gravel road anymore than some nice standard bilstein or fox 2.0s will

I did King's literally for the ONLY reason of my truck is lowered and at the time, they were the only company willing to build me a custom set for my 17+ SD truck

If I was stock height I'd do fox 2.0's for what the price point is on them

If you are looking for ultimate ride quality, it would be full air ride or some crazy coil over setup from King or PMF or whomever. That's big $$$$ tho

I was trying to quote a reply, that was done wrong! Lol

Thanks again for feed back. I did run 2.0’s on the 6.4 with no rear blocks and I always felt like they bottomed out and never worked well or I needed a lowering shock bracket for shock to do its job but never installed any.

What ubolts are you running? Read something about 11-16 or 17 gasser fit rear? Also I can’t remember if you had upgraded your driveshaft or shimmed anything once blocks were removed?
 

Black AOD

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I was trying to quote a reply, that was done wrong! Lol



Thanks again for feed back. I did run 2.0’s on the 6.4 with no rear blocks and I always felt like they bottomed out and never worked well or I needed a lowering shock bracket for shock to do its job but never installed any.



What ubolts are you running? Read something about 11-16 or 17 gasser fit rear? Also I can’t remember if you had upgraded your driveshaft or shimmed anything once blocks were removed?
I pulled the rear 3" block and did u bolts from a 2017+ 2wd F350 diesel super duty, H code or E code u bolts. I forget which.

4800 front coils off a 17+ super duty. I would guess those come off gas trucks.

Didn't touch the driveshaft at all and it's been almost 45k mileage since I lowered it. Zero issues.

Ended up 1.5" front drop and 3" rear drop.

Plus I run 33" toyos instead of the factory 34" tall tires so that lowered me a little as well.



Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Powerstroke214

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I've talked about suspension with a number of people, and from what I've deduced, for someone looking for mostly on road/slow offroad(like your driveway) performance, a 2.0 shock and deaver springs seem to be the answer. If you're looking to raise the front I personally would at least add castor shims and a track bar drop to match the leveling kit. I had Icon coils with Icon 2.0 shocks on my 6.0 and upgraded the front to the Icon 2.5 piggybank shocks. 90% of the time the ride was pretty comparable, but the 2.5s soaked up the larger bumps, pothole and railroad tracks SIGNIFICANTLY better. I swapped this setup over to my 14 and beat on it and it was satisfying.

According to a few, including Trevor @ PMF, there's a good bit of wheel travel lost with a coilover and the only benefit over a quality coil and shock combo is the the coilover allows adjustments to fine tune the height.(OUO ACL allows that as well).

I've also heard that Morgan Primm's 17 had 2.5 OUO shocks out front, I believe a 2.0 in the rear and he removed the thickest leafspring in the pack and that was a very smooth riding setup. This coming from a friend who had a 16 with King 2.5s on it.

Again, I'd probably do 2.0s, reverse level and look at removing a leaf or see if anyone offers a stock height deaver spring pack.(You'll likely need air bags then)
 

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