96 350 SRW to DRW swap

If I buy a dually rear end, new hubs for the front axle, and the set of six dually wheels, is that all i would need to convert my 4x4 96 f350 to a dually? I dont want to keep the srw axle, i want to do the full swap to gain the weight carrying capacity. Anything else i would need? This just bolts in, no driveshaft work right?

Also, in the process of doing this im going to replace the rear springs, they have some rust. What would be best...oe, some aftermarket types, superduty leafs???

I currently have low mile bfg at 285/75r 16s. Will these fit on the dually wheels, or are they too fat? Would they need some kind of spacer?

Sorry for newb questions but this would be my first dually.

285 will be too wide, if your going to be using the weight capacity.
Afaik, everything is boltin.
I have an axle, and 6 rims if you're interested. 4.10s, with a maghytec cover, and stock 16" alcoas.

The front will be a bolt on deal, install the dually hubs/wheels and roll. The rear may require a drive shaft modification as you will be installing a dana 80, not sure if the pinion length is the same. When you buy the axle make sure you measure the spring perch width so you don't accidentally buy a cab chassis axle. As for the springs, if you want to it for the upgraded gvw your gonna have to install a set of dually springs.

FrankTheTank said:

The front will be a bolt on deal, install the dually hubs/wheels and roll. The rear may require a drive shaft modification as you will be installing a dana 80, not sure if the pinion length is the same. When you buy the axle make sure you measure the spring perch width so you don't accidentally buy a cab chassis axle. As for the springs, if you want to it for the upgraded gvw your gonna have to install a set of dually springs.

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What if he just used a dually 10.25. Then it'd bolt right in

Ok, sounds like the 10.25 is easier. I was hoping that the springs and shock mounts would all line up, sounds like it will if i get a 10.25 dually pickup axle.

I have been told to get c code springs - how are these different? Higher spring rate, extra leaf? My current srw has overloads.

I have heard i need dually hubs up front and then i have heard i can use my hubs with a spacer?

Also, if i got a small spacer for the back, could i run 285s to keep them from touching without killing my goal of making this thing stronger and safer? My tires have less than 6k on them it would be nice to only have to buy 2 instead of 6.
Thanks again everyone.

where at in ky are you?

Central, near georgetown and lexington

I ran 285/75/16 on my dodge with a 2" rear spacer... looked really good. Probably could have gotten away with a smaller spacer though as I had a ton of room between the tires.

Countryboy07 said:

I ran 285/75/16 on my dodge with a 2" rear spacer... looked really good. Probably could have gotten away with a smaller spacer though as I had a ton of room between the tires.

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I want say my tire shop suggested a 1" spacer with 285s, but I can't really remember for sure.

I guess you didn't like my answer over on the nation?:doh:

Diesel_Brad said:

I guess you didn't like my answer over on the nation?:doh:

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Man you gotta listen to brad he knows his **** and if you want more you can PM him I bet he's always answered questions I have asked him. Not to mention he converted the best looking obs dually period.

Nah, i just asked the question on two different forums.

I do wish you were down in KY though Brad, id be buzzing around your shop like a fly, esp on the body work. Ive never painted and tell you the truth thats the thing about this swap that concerns me the most. My truck has a very clean body and interior, looks nice, and i wont be happy with a shoddy dually bed, and good ones are hard to find. Would be alot cheaper if i had the know how and tools to do my own body work and paint. Im sure i could figure it out on a old beater over time but i dont want to learn paint on this truck. Would be nice if i knew someone good at it around here. My welding is ok on thicker stuff but sketchy on thin sheet, so i liked the panel bonding used in your build thread.

FlatbedLOL

Actually i was considering that!! That would likely be easier considering my lack of bodywork skills.

If you're looking for a clean dually bed P.M me, I'm in southern Middle Tenn and know of several just sitting around that are clean/dentless, also have access to dozens of rears as well.

Pm inbound. Do you paint lol?

One thing to consider, you can beef up your truck all you want, but it's tough to change the gvw on the door, and that is what police/ d.o.t. will look at.

Gotcha, but i haul on farm tags my own livestock and my own personal stuff. Nothing for hire. I understand that if i was on a commercial operation esp out of state the legalities would be different.

Either way, i think it would be safer to run a dually at less than its capacity than singles at its full capacity. My setup has been nice and stable but extra stability is always nice and in a blowout i think 3 remaining tires sounds better than 1.
All that being said, it has done great so far as is.
I just like to worry about stuff. And mess with my truck.

I understand, and as long as you don't think your modifying the sticker on the door, you'll be fine. You'll have a more stable truck that can haul it's max better, but in the eyes of the law you still can't go over the sticker on the door. I also have a srw 350 and have thought about a dually conversion, but I would want to haul more legally, If I were to get serious about it, I would by a factory dually 2wd and convert it to 4wd. I am pretty sure my pickup with the lance camper I had for it would be over gvw,,,, the way it sits now- and they say you could haul it with a 3/4 ton :bs: (it's over 3k lbs loaded)

I would be interested in knowing how they determine the various weight ratings. Would be nice to hear a Ford engineer explain all that. The typical user doesnt care, but guys on these forums likely aren't typical lol.