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  #681  
Old 02-13-2019, 09:31 AM
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Drove into town and had to manually downshift at every stop. It started in 3rd every time. Went on to the part store and grabbed a be modulator. On my way home, it only did it at the first stop. Rest of the time shifts were right, it downshifted to first at a stop, upshifted to 3rd at a decent rpm. Some of the reading Iíve done says the governor is sticking some. Thinking back, I canít say for sure if I actually took it apart and cleaned it up or not when I did the rebuild. Wasnít doing this before the rebuild so Iím not sure why itíd start now, unless a piece of something got freed up and made its way into there. Anything is possible I suppose.


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2005 F350 2wd CC DRW Lariat

Diamond Eye 5" straight piped
155/30's
KC Stage 1.5
WPE RR and Uppipes
  #682  
Old 02-13-2019, 12:04 PM
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The vacuum seems a little low. Running about 12-13deg initial advance? May need to plug all ports at carb to confirm no vac leaks.

Canít comment on the trans trouble shooting. Run all manual and reverse pattern here.
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2000 F250 CCSB GT4294R, 250/100s, Dahl/Fuelab, BTS, PHP tuning, stock 17* pump
1994 F250 SCLB
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1997 F250 CCSB 2wd (sold)
  #683  
Old 02-13-2019, 12:08 PM
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Sounds like you are gaining on the vacuum issue.
I assume you've double checked the throttle blade position at idle? I.e. fully closed?
Try spraying some wd40/carb cleaner all around and over the carb (not directly into the carb) to verify no vacuum leaks? I cant remember if you've covered that, too lazy to reread the thread, lol.
Have you played with the distributor setting at all during this process? Sometimes you can gain a bit of vacuum reading by retarding timing a degree or two. Of course, you'll want to keep an eye on how the engine starts as you change timing, it's a bit of a balancing act. Quite often I found that the recommended number was close, but not perfect, depending on the combination of carb/cam/heads. Of course, double check your vacuum with carb changes after any timing changes, as it will change you carb adjustment.
It is a time consuming process, but it can pay off, and if you are only a 1/2 turn out on the idle screws, and still rich, I think you'll be a lot happier.
Sorry if you've already discussed this, just trying to cover all the bases. When you get it perfect, you know we expect a video, right? Preferably a burnout, or a drive by under load!
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2000 f250 zf6, air, oil, fuel mods, flatbed dual dana 80
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2001 f250 same setup as the 2000, auto trans
2002 with a couple of mods, grocerygetter
  #684  
Old 02-13-2019, 01:54 PM
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Timing is 12 degrees initial. I checked that this morning too. Only used port on the carb when I checked vacuum was the vacuum advance port which I never disconnected or plugged. Just left the distributor hooked up. Iím using that port, and my full manifold vacuum port to supply the modulator and hvac. Checked it this morning via the full manifold port.

Throttle blade are the one thing I did not check. Idle mix screws were set at about a turn and 1/4 out of the box. Iím at about 1.5-1 3/4 turns out now.


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2005 F350 2wd CC DRW Lariat

Diamond Eye 5" straight piped
155/30's
KC Stage 1.5
WPE RR and Uppipes
  #685  
Old 02-13-2019, 02:02 PM
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Iíll Spray around the carb next chance I get. And may even drop timing down to 10 just to see how vacuum changes. Iím at 12 initial now, and running 87 octane Iíve yet to hear any pinging. I need a better tach for sure though. I layed into it earlier and the tach showed 3500, which was in no way correct! It was screaming. I have the Msd box rev limiter set at 5500, so I shouldnít have to worry about that. It will do a burnout now though! It wouldnít before, so something must be better this go round.

As for the trans, I need to pull the tail shaft and clean the governor. For now, it it acts dumb, Iíll just manually shift it.

And yes, if I can get someone to do it, Iíll get a video later. My wife wonít because sheíd just bitch the whole time about how Iím ďgoing to tear it upĒ.


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2005 F350 2wd CC DRW Lariat

Diamond Eye 5" straight piped
155/30's
KC Stage 1.5
WPE RR and Uppipes
  #686  
Old 02-13-2019, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6speedsd View Post
Timing is 12 degrees initial. I checked that this morning too. Only used port on the carb when I checked vacuum was the vacuum advance port which I never disconnected or plugged. Just left the distributor hooked up. Iím using that port, and my full manifold vacuum port to supply the modulator and hvac. Checked it this morning via the full manifold port.

Throttle blade are the one thing I did not check. Idle mix screws were set at about a turn and 1/4 out of the box. Iím at about 1.5-1 3/4 turns out now.


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Definitely check the throttle blades, I've seen them hang up, even on new carbs. Sometimes, just a bit of bind when you tighten the carb down to the manifold.
As long as your port is below the throttle blades-not the choke blades- vacuum should be the same anywhere you check it.
One-two turns is generally a good starting point, but if you are rich, and everything else is "right", I wouldn't be afraid to go less, at least till you start giving up throttle response.
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2000 f250 zf6, air, oil, fuel mods, flatbed dual dana 80
Almost stock
2001 f250 same setup as the 2000, auto trans
2002 with a couple of mods, grocerygetter
  #687  
Old 02-14-2019, 07:16 AM
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Couple quick checks this morning before work.....sprayed carb cleaner all around the base of the carb, vacuum ports, shafts, etc and no change in idle, so I think I can rule out leaks there. Best I can tell, blades are closed at idle. Sort of hard to get up there and see. I canít see a definite opening regardless, so if they are open, itís a tiny amount. I tried looking myself, used a mirror, even took pics with my phone. I canít see a gap, but like I said, itís hard to make out much.


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2005 F350 2wd CC DRW Lariat

Diamond Eye 5" straight piped
155/30's
KC Stage 1.5
WPE RR and Uppipes
  #688  
Old 02-14-2019, 04:50 PM
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Sounds good ó As long as you are not making big curb idle adjustments with the throttle stop screw, all is well.

Hopefully you get a handle on the trans soon.
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2000 F250 CCSB GT4294R, 250/100s, Dahl/Fuelab, BTS, PHP tuning, stock 17* pump
1994 F250 SCLB
(sold)
1997 F250 CCSB 2wd (sold)
  #689  
Old 02-15-2019, 01:35 PM
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Yet another rainy day so I'm home again. Got the governor off the trans and cleaned it up. Neither valve would move freely. A lot of carb cleaner, some time with a scotchbrite pad, and a half hour later it's all moving smooth and free again. Seemed to fix my issue. Truck now downshifts at a stop which it didn't do before. Sometimes I still have to manually drop it to 2nd if I'm turning onto another road or something...for whatever reason it'll still say in 3rd then, but that might work itself out with more driving. It now also shifts to 3rd at 45ish mph under light throttle, which I can live with. Before the cleaning it was 60+ before it'd shift up.

Have to swap my old alternator back on tomorrow. The TuffStuff 100amp I've had for a year is yet again about to eat it's bearings. I've already had one warranty replacement 6mths ago, now it's doing the same thing again. Talked with the company I bought it from and they of course claim they never have warranty claims on them, blah blah blah. At least they are sending me a refund check and I'll just be done with them and go back to the factory style Ford part. I went one wire just to clean up wiring under the hood...look where that got me! Oh well, chit happens right. Now I have to see if I can find that wiring harness again!

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2005 F350 2wd CC DRW Lariat

Diamond Eye 5" straight piped
155/30's
KC Stage 1.5
WPE RR and Uppipes
  #690  
Old 02-15-2019, 01:53 PM
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Anyone know what year GM one wire alternators have the same mounting tabs as the Ford style does? Before I call and get the run around from some idiot parts counter keyboard tapper.


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2005 F350 2wd CC DRW Lariat

Diamond Eye 5" straight piped
155/30's
KC Stage 1.5
WPE RR and Uppipes
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