Tire load rating

I know I can probably find this if I looked around but I'm lazy. Between E and D what does everyone prefer on their trucks? What's the major difference


01 7.3 F250
4" Diamond Eye exhaust
"Tymar" Intake
EGT, Trans Temp, Boost

Depends on what you use it for.

Glorified mom car, D is fine and rides better.

Use it for what it was built for, then get a E.

I prefer to find an E rated tire, but it's more about the actual weight rating IMO. XXXX pounds @ XX PSI.

I've had both load range tires without issue. D & E only refer to the number of plies in the tire itself. D = 8 ply E = 10 ply

Sterling B. said:

I prefer to find an E rated tire, but it's more about the actual weight rating IMO. XXXX pounds @ XX PSI.

I've had both load range tires without issue. D & E only refer to the number of plies in the tire itself. D = 8 ply E = 10 ply

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Ok, with proper rotation/inflation which ones last longer?


01 7.3 F250
4" Diamond Eye exhaust
"Tymar" Intake
EGT, Trans Temp, Boost

Lifespan with proper maintenance and driving techniques will depend on the actual hardness of the rubber. If you do enough investigation, you might... and that's a huge might, be able to find a durometer reading for a particular tire. However, as a general rule of thumb: highway patterns > all terrains > mud terrains. This is also a result of how load is transferred across the lugs.

I'm not sure what sort of life your aiming for, but I'm happy to get 30K out of my tires. However, that's out of mud-oriented tread designs, and for some reason my truck is ridiculously hard on tires. (<15K on Cooper ST, 18K on Toyo MT)

As a guess, you might be able to get a hair more out of a 10 ply tire, not to mention better handling characteristics under a heavy truck. I hope this helps at least a little bit.

Tires have load and wear rating tat can help. Also check the wear warranty, I have never
gotten to that magic ware warranty number but use it to help with the decision.

In reality though, of the specific type of tire you are looking at the more expensive is
usually the best wearing. A cheap tire is cheap for a reason. I get Michelins when they
are $75 off a set at costco, they are by far lasted the longest. They are a highway M/S
tire and may not be the specific style you are looking for. If you want strictly hi way
then the Michelin Ribs or the Bridgestone equivalent last for ever.

this thread is a head scratcher...:shrug:

ToMang07 said:

IMO...if you're that worried about ride quality, buy a car. Or a chevy.



Otherwise, the manufacturer calls for E-rated tires for a reason, and should you ever have a blowout with under-rated tires, I imagine you'd be liable.



Besides...these trucks aint cheap....why so many people cheap out on tires is beyond me.

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No I agree, I'm more worried about the weight of the truck making it feel "loose" on D rated because the tire giving. It's just gonna be the first set of tires on it, and it currently has D rated tires on it now, but they're ****, so it's not a great comparison. Just wondering what the actual difference was. It's definitely going E rated for sure, since the price isn't much worse, and I'm hoping it may extend the tire life even if it's not by too much


01 7.3 F250
4" Diamond Eye exhaust
"Tymar" Intake
EGT, Trans Temp, Boost

E rated tires will have greater sidewall stability and run at higher pressures than D rated ones. This makes for a tire that will be better suited for towing, as well as handle the additional front end weight of the PSD.

Think of it this way.... the more the tire flexes, the more heat it creates. The more heat there is, the faster the tire breaks down. Now your D rated tires will flex more than E rated, hence the likelihood of them lasting a long time will significantly decrease with such a heavy truck, and will be even further compounded if you tow.

ToMang07 said:

Besides...these trucks aint cheap....why so many people cheap out on tires is beyond me.

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It's like the difference between a $50 hooker and a $500 hooker. There's obvious reasons why you spend the $500 rather than chance it at $50.

CurtisF said:

It's like the difference between a $50 hooker and a $500 hooker. There's obvious reasons why you spend the $500 rather than chance it at $50.

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What's the worst that could happen? LOL

Thanks guys, I figure it was more of a sidewall Issue. As I said it has D's and it feels like ****, that's ok, I got a set on the way. Good info


01 7.3 F250
4" Diamond Eye exhaust
"Tymar" Intake
EGT, Trans Temp, Boost

fresh rubber


01 7.3 F250
4" Diamond Eye exhaust
"Tymar" Intake
EGT, Trans Temp, Boost

Got those on my GMC 2500 work truck. Good so far. Prob got 15k on them.

Vader's Fury said:

Got those on my GMC 2500 work truck. Good so far. Prob got 15k on them.

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Yea that were quoted 50K mile rated, I doubt I'll get near that, but I'm happy with them losing that sidewall flex from the old D rated tires is a definite improvement


01 7.3 F250
4" Diamond Eye exhaust
"Tymar" Intake
EGT, Trans Temp, Boost