7.3 Engine Build Disaster

Black 02

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Sorry I haven't kept up to date on here with my engine build. I want you all to know I've appreciated your help and advice along the way. I'm sure some remember some of the issues I've had over the past 18 months with my engine builder.

I got the engine running ok finally and thought maybe my issues were behind me.

Driving to the coast last weekend to go salmon fishing and driving along on the flats and all of a sudden it starts sounding like a lifter ticking. Starts getting louder and louder. Oil pressure ok. Water temp ok. Pull over and it's missing and sounds like a rod knocking. Shut it down and check the oil. Oil looks ok. Did some research online and it sounds like a cracked injector. Well it sounds like the truck in this video. It was 5 AM and dark so I couldn't see the smoke. When it started to get light, I could see it was smoking a huge cloud of white fuel smoke. So, I pay to have it hauled home and work on it Sunday night.

Pull valve covers off and look for broken rockers, bent push rods... etc etc. Nothing that I can see. Start the truck and start unplugging one injector at a time. One injector makes the major smoking stop when unplugged, but the knocking sound remains. Pull the injector and I see nothing wrong with it visually.

Drain the oil and find the magnetic drain plug with about a dime size ball of metal flakes stuck to it. Oil has about 750 miles on it. Obviously iron or something because it's metallic.

So now I'm wondering if it's a broken piston, bad cam bearing wearing on the cam. I'm not sure.

All I know is the oil system is highly contaminated with metal flakes and the engine has a knock. Don't know if it is from the injector or what.

So, now I guess I get to pull this engine that I've spent over $15k on out after only 4000 miles of driving. Not what I had in mind when I spent that money.

Right now I think I need to find a used forged rod engine and put it in it and just drive it. Keep this motor and put it on a stand and rebuild it over the next year or so and then put it back in the truck.

Or I need to find a reputable engine builder in the Oregon/Washington area to rebuild this thing after I figure out what's wrong with it.

That being said.... I should have used my first instincts and bought an engine from David Lott or Swamps. I would never have had these issues. Let that be a word of advice from me to anyone wanting to build a high horsepower 7.3L. Be careful for what you wish for and good luck!
 

Mr.BigOil

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Sorry I haven't kept up to date on here with my engine build. I want you all to know I've appreciated your help and advice along the way. I'm sure some remember some of the issues I've had over the past 18 months with my engine builder.

I got the engine running ok finally and thought maybe my issues were behind me.

Driving to the coast last weekend to go salmon fishing and driving along on the flats and all of a sudden it starts sounding like a lifter ticking. Starts getting louder and louder. Oil pressure ok. Water temp ok. Pull over and it's missing and sounds like a rod knocking. Shut it down and check the oil. Oil looks ok. Did some research online and it sounds like a cracked injector. Well it sounds like the truck in this video. It was 5 AM and dark so I couldn't see the smoke. When it started to get light, I could see it was smoking a huge cloud of white fuel smoke. So, I pay to have it hauled home and work on it Sunday night.

Pull valve covers off and look for broken rockers, bent push rods... etc etc. Nothing that I can see. Start the truck and start unplugging one injector at a time. One injector makes the major smoking stop when unplugged, but the knocking sound remains. Pull the injector and I see nothing wrong with it visually.

Drain the oil and find the magnetic drain plug with about a dime size ball of metal flakes stuck to it. Oil has about 750 miles on it. Obviously iron or something because it's metallic.

So now I'm wondering if it's a broken piston, bad cam bearing wearing on the cam. I'm not sure.

All I know is the oil system is highly contaminated with metal flakes and the engine has a knock. Don't know if it is from the injector or what.

So, now I guess I get to pull this engine that I've spent over $15k on out after only 4000 miles of driving. Not what I had in mind when I spent that money.

Right now I think I need to find a used forged rod engine and put it in it and just drive it. Keep this motor and put it on a stand and rebuild it over the next year or so and then put it back in the truck.

Or I need to find a reputable engine builder in the Oregon/Washington area to rebuild this thing after I figure out what's wrong with it.

That being said.... I should have used my first instincts and bought an engine from David Lott or Swamps. I would never have had these issues. Let that be a word of advice from me to anyone wanting to build a high horsepower 7.3L. Be careful for what you wish for and good luck!
Ryan, that's too bad....
If your still running the Melling LPOP, pull it off and inspect the gear rotor. I had one on my 97......it sent metal through my oil system.....and damaged 5 injectors. It may not be the end of the world if it did what mine did.

Good luck!
 

golfer

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Sorry I haven't kept up to date on here with my engine build. I want you all to know I've appreciated your help and advice along the way. I'm sure some remember some of the issues I've had over the past 18 months with my engine builder.

I got the engine running ok finally and thought maybe my issues were behind me.

Driving to the coast last weekend to go salmon fishing and driving along on the flats and all of a sudden it starts sounding like a lifter ticking. Starts getting louder and louder. Oil pressure ok. Water temp ok. Pull over and it's missing and sounds like a rod knocking. Shut it down and check the oil. Oil looks ok. Did some research online and it sounds like a cracked injector. Well it sounds like the truck in this video. It was 5 AM and dark so I couldn't see the smoke. When it started to get light, I could see it was smoking a huge cloud of white fuel smoke. So, I pay to have it hauled home and work on it Sunday night.

Pull valve covers off and look for broken rockers, bent push rods... etc etc. Nothing that I can see. Start the truck and start unplugging one injector at a time. One injector makes the major smoking stop when unplugged, but the knocking sound remains. Pull the injector and I see nothing wrong with it visually.

Drain the oil and find the magnetic drain plug with about a dime size ball of metal flakes stuck to it. Oil has about 750 miles on it. Obviously iron or something because it's metallic.

So now I'm wondering if it's a broken piston, bad cam bearing wearing on the cam. I'm not sure.

All I know is the oil system is highly contaminated with metal flakes and the engine has a knock. Don't know if it is from the injector or what.

So, now I guess I get to pull this engine that I've spent over $15k on out after only 4000 miles of driving. Not what I had in mind when I spent that money.

Right now I think I need to find a used forged rod engine and put it in it and just drive it. Keep this motor and put it on a stand and rebuild it over the next year or so and then put it back in the truck.

Or I need to find a reputable engine builder in the Oregon/Washington area to rebuild this thing after I figure out what's wrong with it.

That being said.... I should have used my first instincts and bought an engine from David Lott or Swamps. I would never have had these issues. Let that be a word of advice from me to anyone wanting to build a high horsepower 7.3L. Be careful for what you wish for and good luck!

my guess is that the rods were installed backwards.

ie, on the big end of each con rod...their is a large & small chamfer.

the large chamfer on each rod has to face the counterweight on the crank...(small chamfers face each other).

it's a nuance commonly overlooked by engine builders unfamiliar with the Power Stroke.

though it could be a dozen other things...
 

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DocBar

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my guess is that the rods were installed backwards.

ie, on the big end of each con rod...their is a large & small chamfer.

the large chamfer on each rod has to face the counterweight on the crank...(small chamfers face each other).

it's a nuance commonly overlooked by engine builders unfamiliar with the Power Stroke.

though it could be a dozen other things...
This is the kind of info that makes me glad I spent the $$ to have my motor built.

When you start looking at high HP, the devil is in the details. This is literally the 1st time I've heard that there's a difference in chamfers on the rods. Thank you for sharing that tidbit, Dave.

With built motors, small things have large effects. Don't get too down until you know exactly what the issue is. My "bought" motor had all kinds of issues and I was pretty pissed about it. Ended up being electrical issues. Those are definitely the devil with 7.3's.

To the OP, you can send an oil sample out to Blackstone and they can tell you the source of the metal fairly accurately. It might not take a full rebuild to correct. Heck, you might've just lost a nozzle tip. Happened to me. Thought my $20K motor was toast.
 
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CSIPSD

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Ryan,

I am sorry to hear that... I will keep my eyes open for a motor, and if you want even lend a hand swapping.

Let me know if you need anything, I have 3 core motors here, and several sets of about everything.
 

uw mitch

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That really sucks. If you're looking for a shop to do the work, call DFI Performance and see if they can do what you want within your budget.

~Mitch
 

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