OBS T4 kits now with compete down-pipe!

rusty1161

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oh I see, the front of the cab might be facing down, but wouldn't I see gap issues on the fender/door spacing?

Doors are attached to the cab, any issue there I would think is hinge/hinge pin related. My cab bushings were most noticeable at the cab/bed alignment.

Anyway, sagging cab mounts takes up space where your down pipe might need to be running through.

Rusty
 

rusty1161

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F4TZ1000155B
F4TZ1000396B
F4TZ1000155AA

I'm still tracking down one more part#, but search EBay for these part#'s and you can find OEM if you prefer.

Rusty
 

zilla68

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http://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-1997-F-Series-Truck-Cab-Mount-Hardware-Kit/productinfo/33101/#

looks like this is the one I need, I thought i'd seen those that used energy suspension didn't like them or had issues.

wow, its been 7 months since I posted this and still not got the truck together.
update though, had a shop come look at it, said the down pipe is at least 30 degrees off, so i'm having it towed to their shop so they can finish it for me before winter. so either I got a down pipe made on a Friday, or an old one, but there's no way in the world this down pipe was right! sure hope they got this issue fixed.
 

rusty1161

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my issue though is the damn down pipe is almost hitting the trans line, there is no way I could bend that line, its actually almost touching the trans fitting. i'm not sure how a cab bushing would affect this though, the motor is bolted to the frame, and the trans is bolted to the frame crossmember/motor, so If the cab bushing was bad, I would have fit issues with the downpipe hitting the cab.
maybe i'm way off base. thanks for your help and input, but something is just not right with this set up.

Here is a follow up to this issue. My downpipe and transmission cooler line do rub. I have looked at a few different ways to address this and add the SD 3/8" hardlines. The SD bypass won't clear. My plan is to use one of these Edelmann 5/16 flare to 3/8" hose fittings and use a short piece of hose to connect to the hardline after it is cut back a bit. The part# is Edelmann 822560, about $12.

IMG_0254_zpsru7gxc8v.jpg


I hope this helps. More pics to follow.

Rusty
 

rusty1161

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FWIW, here is how I ran the front cooler line for more clearance, and switched to 3/8" SD hardlines at the same time.

1- Edelmann 822560 fitting $11 on Amazon
SD 3/8" hardlines

You're going to need the adapter for the rear cooler line and the spacer. I ended up having the fittings from the SD bypass I tried to install, but didn't have the clearance. I bought the spacers that replace the bypass from Riffraff I believe.

Here is the fitting
IMG_1688_zpshav6qcbj.jpg


Here it is installed by itself
IMG_1690_zpsuuhr26qp.jpg


I connected the fitting to the cutback hardline with 3/8" trans cooler hose
IMG_1692_zpsdo3fpihf.jpg


Here is the hose/hardline setup
IMG_1691_zpspkfhgkbz.jpg


The front connections, by the radiator are straight forward. This was a fairly costly mod/mistake/search for a solution. I hope this helps others out with their OBS T4/E4OD swaps.

I am sure there are other ways that are more robust or cleaner. Hopefully this works!

Rusty
 
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