jimdawg185
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I have been getting quite a few questions. So, instead of going deep into each and every part of what makes up an engine oil I am first going to talk a little bit about how LE compares to the competition. I am not allowed according to FTC and certain ISO 9001 mandates from mentioning my competitors by name. I can however point out some tests and what to look for. And, from an intangible side I can show yall the other side of the oils life, the analysis after and during use.
A few simple things before I get into the meat and potatoes.
An engine oil has a life span to it. If its one day like me putting the wrong oil in my wifes car and dumping it yesterday to replace with the correct oil, or ten to twenty years like our clarifier gear box gear lube or steam turbine oils. It is very important to consider the life action of the oil. Just because a certain test or spec determines that an oil has a higher or lower performing point when new does not mean that it will mean anything tangible when in service. I will clarify this more later.
Oil test consistency matters. Being ISO 9001 certified actually means something. You can tell this when you look at our test reports. In the data section you will never see a range of numbers unless that is how the test results are to be determined. LE is ahigh performance oil company with very solid results and very solid numbers. There are not that many high performance oil manufactures that meet the ISO 9001 standards. And their test results show this from time to time. There is a reason us power stroke guys don't use Dorman products, why would you use the equivalent of Dorman as the thing that holds that 1-3 micron hydrodynamic film between your journal bearings and crank. There is no room for error here, even if you haven't had problems. There are lots of people who have not had problems with Dorman products, does that they are the best choice for your truck? Our oils are tested dozens of times from the second the base oil is brought into the plant till the time it leaves. That is for your truck!
Proprietary additives matter. LE has additives that belong only to us. They are similar to the additives that people pay for and add to their engine oil. Why buy a cheap oil, just to add something to it later to make it work "better". These additives work good, but the oil companies and the additive manufactures do not manufacture their stuff to work with some one else' stuff. They manufacture their oil to work just how it is with it's additives. Buy an oil that already has the chemistry balanced for said additives and already included in the cost of the oil.
There is a difference between price and cost. Yes, you can go to Autozone and buy a bucket of oil for 60$ instead of 130-150$. But, if you don't change that 60$ oil more often, you will be building up sludge and soot. My oil stays red till about 10k miles. There are other sponsors on here who have seen the inside of my engine, it is stupid clean. And I do my oil changes at 25k miles. Last year I saved 1000$ by extending oil changes ( I drive about 1k a week). I took some of that savings and bought oil analysis. Now I can trend data and look for things like coolant and silicon way before I could see it with the naked eye. I can now schedule down time for my truck instead of being caught off guard. This saves my fleets tens of thousands of dollars a year. Sometimes more. Buying a high quality oil from someone with my expertise brings much more value to you than the moron at Autozone ever will.
The robustness of our oils will really shine if something goes sideways in your engine/trans/t-case/diffs. When I cracked my block I had no idea that the coolant was was going into the oil right away. I thought I blew my head gasket again. Six gallons later I saw the oil cap had that waxy crap on it. I flushed it with a major brand oil, three times. The truck went down hill fast. I thought it was game over for that engine. The major brand oil was just getting wiped and really hot fast. For the heck of it I tried our oil again and temps went back to normal, and the waxy crap got cleaned up real fast. Truck runs good (considering) with 60 psi hot at speed and 40 psi hot idle. I am now able to save up and build an engine that doesn't have coolant pissing into the oil on my time.
A few simple things before I get into the meat and potatoes.
An engine oil has a life span to it. If its one day like me putting the wrong oil in my wifes car and dumping it yesterday to replace with the correct oil, or ten to twenty years like our clarifier gear box gear lube or steam turbine oils. It is very important to consider the life action of the oil. Just because a certain test or spec determines that an oil has a higher or lower performing point when new does not mean that it will mean anything tangible when in service. I will clarify this more later.
Oil test consistency matters. Being ISO 9001 certified actually means something. You can tell this when you look at our test reports. In the data section you will never see a range of numbers unless that is how the test results are to be determined. LE is ahigh performance oil company with very solid results and very solid numbers. There are not that many high performance oil manufactures that meet the ISO 9001 standards. And their test results show this from time to time. There is a reason us power stroke guys don't use Dorman products, why would you use the equivalent of Dorman as the thing that holds that 1-3 micron hydrodynamic film between your journal bearings and crank. There is no room for error here, even if you haven't had problems. There are lots of people who have not had problems with Dorman products, does that they are the best choice for your truck? Our oils are tested dozens of times from the second the base oil is brought into the plant till the time it leaves. That is for your truck!
Proprietary additives matter. LE has additives that belong only to us. They are similar to the additives that people pay for and add to their engine oil. Why buy a cheap oil, just to add something to it later to make it work "better". These additives work good, but the oil companies and the additive manufactures do not manufacture their stuff to work with some one else' stuff. They manufacture their oil to work just how it is with it's additives. Buy an oil that already has the chemistry balanced for said additives and already included in the cost of the oil.
There is a difference between price and cost. Yes, you can go to Autozone and buy a bucket of oil for 60$ instead of 130-150$. But, if you don't change that 60$ oil more often, you will be building up sludge and soot. My oil stays red till about 10k miles. There are other sponsors on here who have seen the inside of my engine, it is stupid clean. And I do my oil changes at 25k miles. Last year I saved 1000$ by extending oil changes ( I drive about 1k a week). I took some of that savings and bought oil analysis. Now I can trend data and look for things like coolant and silicon way before I could see it with the naked eye. I can now schedule down time for my truck instead of being caught off guard. This saves my fleets tens of thousands of dollars a year. Sometimes more. Buying a high quality oil from someone with my expertise brings much more value to you than the moron at Autozone ever will.
The robustness of our oils will really shine if something goes sideways in your engine/trans/t-case/diffs. When I cracked my block I had no idea that the coolant was was going into the oil right away. I thought I blew my head gasket again. Six gallons later I saw the oil cap had that waxy crap on it. I flushed it with a major brand oil, three times. The truck went down hill fast. I thought it was game over for that engine. The major brand oil was just getting wiped and really hot fast. For the heck of it I tried our oil again and temps went back to normal, and the waxy crap got cleaned up real fast. Truck runs good (considering) with 60 psi hot at speed and 40 psi hot idle. I am now able to save up and build an engine that doesn't have coolant pissing into the oil on my time.