Oil Bypass Kit Ford 6.0 Super Duty

MNBen

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I did a lot of reading on different forums and websites regarding oil bypass kits for the Ford diesel Super Duty. I found maybe 4 or 5 sites that sold a variety of kits but at 3 to 6 times more than I spent, I felt that price was more than I wanted to spend.

Reasons differ on why people install a bypass filter. You will have to justify yourself on whether to install one. Should you install one of these you do so at at your own risk. This is my setup on my 2006 F350 6.0 Dually...

I purchased a new oil filter cap from the dealership for about $23. I then drilled and taped 1/8” NPT to accommodate a 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC fitting.
I also purchased a oil fill cap from my local parts store for about $5 and drilled and taped 1/8” NPT to accommodate another 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC fitting.

I used this stuff to seal up the threads of the fittings.

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I picked up two 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC straight fittings and drilled out a steel washer just large enough to fit over the threads of the fitting (13/32”). I added sealant and snugged the fittings to the caps. The washer helped in snugging the fittings down securely to the caps. These sat for a day or two to set up.

The caps with the fittings attached.
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I got all my fittings and hoses from my local hydraulic shop. You could also try an implement dealer or maybe your local NAPA. These are the hoses I had them make up for me. There is a straight fitting on one end and a 90* fitting on the other. Your lengths may vary.
pic8_zpshksshryq.png


I had a chunk of angle iron left over from a garage door install that I attached to the alternator mount. In order for the filter to fit, I had to carve up the fan shroud. Be carefull, the shroud is very brittle.
pic4_zps4hxvrdsr.png


I picked up the filter base from Amazon. It is a Wix 24775 Heavy Duty Filter Mount and comes with 1/8” NTP ports in which I have a 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC straight fitting and a 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC 90* elbow installed. It seems good and sturdy. The filter is a Baldwin B164 By-Pass Lube Spin-On Filter. It has a tiny outlet hole to only let a small amount of oil out in order to keep the correct amount of pressure in the oil pump.

The elbows on the end of the hoses snug up on the oil cap fittings after the oil caps have been tightly installed. When I want to remove the oil caps I loosen the fitting slightly so it will swivel. Don’t bother trying to manually fill the bypass filter with oil prior to the install, the oil just does not fill it like a normal full flow oil filter.
That is about it. Hook everything up and enjoy your bypass filter kit. In addition to the added filtering, my oil temp runs about 6 degrees cooler since the install.

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MNBen

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It is my understanding the threads can be changed out of the filter head to accommodate an Amsoil filter. Although I have not tried it.
 

MNBen

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This is the thread starter with pics. My old pics were on photobucket, you know the story.
***MODS If you could replace my original thread starter post #1 with this post I would appreciate it.
Now, on with the modification....

I did a lot of reading on different forums and websites regarding oil bypass kits for the Ford diesel Super Duty. I found maybe 4 or 5 sites that sold a variety of kits but at 3 to 6 times more than I spent, I felt that price was more than I wanted to spend.

Reasons differ on why people install a bypass filter. You will have to justify yourself on whether to install one. Should you install one of these you do so at at your own risk. This is my setup on my 2006 F350 6.0 Dually...

I purchased a new oil filter cap from the dealership for about $23. I then drilled and taped 1/8” NPT to accommodate a 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC fitting.
I also purchased a oil fill cap from my local parts store for about $5 and drilled and taped 1/8” NPT to accommodate another 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC fitting.

I used this stuff to seal up the threads of the fittings.

we1cfsl.jpg


Awhakff.jpg


lPadpvo.jpg


I picked up two 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC straight fittings and drilled out a steel washer just large enough to fit over the threads of the fitting (13/32”). I added sealant and snugged the fittings to the caps. The washer helped in snugging the fittings down securely to the caps. These sat for a day or two to set up.

The caps with the fittings attached.
VnFrJAN.jpg


Af2u0np.jpg


I got all my fittings and hoses from my local hydraulic shop. You could also try an implement dealer or maybe your local NAPA. These are the hoses I had them make up for me. There is a straight fitting on one end and a 90* fitting on the other. Your lengths may vary.
5FZ1rSy.jpg


I had a chunk of angle iron left over from a garage door install that I attached to the alternator mount. In order for the filter to fit, I had to carve up the fan shroud. Be carefull, the shroud is very brittle.
WGwN4kW.jpg


I picked up the filter base from Amazon. It is a Wix 24775 Heavy Duty Filter Mount and comes with 1/8” NTP ports in which I have a 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC straight fitting and a 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC 90* elbow installed. It seems good and sturdy. The filter is a Baldwin B164 By-Pass Lube Spin-On Filter. It has a tiny outlet hole to only let a small amount of oil out in order to keep the correct amount of pressure in the oil pump.

The elbows on the end of the hoses snug up on the oil cap fittings after the oil caps have been tightly installed. When I want to remove the oil caps I loosen the fitting slightly so it will swivel. Don’t bother trying to manually fill the bypass filter with oil prior to the install, the oil just does not fill it like a normal full flow oil filter.
That is about it. Hook everything up and enjoy your bypass filter kit. In addition to the added filtering, my oil temp runs about 6 degrees cooler since the install.

9vBdVwM.jpg


CmoZwmB.jpg


6rofw2w.jpg
 

MNBen

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The 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC fitting on the oil filter cap loosened when I held it with a wrench to loosen the hose fitting during an oil change. I tightened it again being careful not to over tighten it. I do see some oil residue around this fitting but have had an issue with my AIC connection directly in front of it and think that is actually where the oil is coming from. There may be a better sealant on the market other than the casket sealer I used on the threads.

I think if I could do this again, longer threads on the 1/8" NPT x 1/4" JIC fitting would allow one to put a skinny nut with lock-tight on either side of the oil filter cap to clamp/hold the fitting to the cap. Or, ideally, a thicker cap that would allow more threads to tap.

But no leaks from the system. I put a couple of plastic bags around the filter to catch the drippings when changing it.
 

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