wanting to dump 38r

lariat 7.3

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wanting to dump this 38r and jump on the T4 route. Main concern is i want something i wont have to keep my eyes glued to the EGT gauge when i have a trailer hooked up like i do with the 38r. Just always feels like its under the turbo if i let it drop into overdrive if im not doing 70+. See a couple SXE's for sale in the classifieds.

What would you go with based on my sig? 90% a DD 8% hauling 10k+ when a trailer is hooked up, and 2% letting her eat, which is almost never as im afraid to blow up the DD
 

PSD POWER007

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364.5 (I have a basb which is close to the same) is a towing beast with 180/80's. I'm considering 238/80's when mine get tired which should be even better I'd think.
 

emev0l

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An s369 would be perfect for 238/80's

If you plan on jumping up to large hybrids later you could go with an s467.7 with a .90 housing and swap to a 1.10 housing when you move up in injector size.
 

JDelaney

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I think any S300 SX-E is going to be a significant upgrade over your 38R. My 364.5 begins to spool at 1500RPM with 160s and I never have to look at the pyro (towing 12K 5er on DP 80 econo). Has anyone done back to back testing between a 366 & 369?
 

emev0l

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I think any S300 SX-E is going to be a significant upgrade over your 38R. My 364.5 begins to spool at 1500RPM with 160s and I never have to look at the pyro (towing 12K 5er on DP 80 econo). Has anyone done back to back testing between a 366 & 369?

Not a s366sxe vs a s369sxe, just the old box 366 vs an s369sxe, which spools better and flows more. The 66 and 69 sxe's will spool very very close, the 69 will just flow more up top.

That 64.5 is a perfect tow turbo for stock up to 205/30's
 

Addicted4

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I'm surprised you even have to look at your egt gauge with small hybrids and a 38r. Matts tuning in a tow tune never breaks 1200* no matter what load I've put behind my truck. Might look at/for boost leaks and what tune are you running in? What gear ratio are you running in the axles?
 

lariat 7.3

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Boost leaks have been ruled out, resealed plenums, upgraded boots, international bellowed uppipes etc. 3.73 on the rear end. Unless I'm 2100 rpm or more it'll start falling under the turbo with a load
 

lincolnlocker

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Boost leaks have been ruled out, resealed plenums, upgraded boots, international bellowed uppipes etc. 3.73 on the rear end. Unless I'm 2100 rpm or more it'll start falling under the turbo with a load
there's no reason to get rid of the 38r.. you need better tunes or a tow tune..

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

KCTurbos

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I'm surprised you even have to look at your egt gauge with small hybrids and a 38r. Matts tuning in a tow tune never breaks 1200* no matter what load I've put behind my truck. Might look at/for boost leaks and what tune are you running in? What gear ratio are you running in the axles?

Its funny you mention this. I have been pondering this same thing.

SO MANY people have zero issues with the 38r (or variants of it). Towing with no issues and spools awesome. Then you have some guys that have EGT issues and say it spools like a turd... then they go T4, fixes all the issues, and they love it.

I have always wondered if when they go "t4" they fix all the boost/exhaust leaks because everything is brand new, which is part of the previous problem and now why they have zero issues.

I have never met anyone that has not had some sort of boost/exhaust leak when having turbo issues. If they ever stop by the shop it takes me about 5 min to find a leak (usually they have multiple leaks). These 15-20 year old truck parts will leak and go bad. It is funny because the most common thing I hear is "wouldn't I notice if I had a boost/exhaust leak"?


I just don't see it being possible that the performance of the box 38r can vary so much... it has to be tuning, health of truck, or leaks. But that is just a theory.
 

Addicted4

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Even with a stock charger in a tow tune it shouldn't get hot, now turbo surge is another animal but very doable. Something isn't right with the truck imo. Map sensor, ebp sensor causing issues, icp, ipr, tuning, boost leaks something is out of the normal operating parameters.

Stock charger does its job
38r does it better
Kc38r little better yet
T4i or t4 even better
Compounds best your going to get
 

lariat 7.3

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Its funny you mention this. I have been pondering this same thing.

SO MANY people have zero issues with the 38r (or variants of it). Towing with no issues and spools awesome. Then you have some guys that have EGT issues and say it spools like a turd... then they go T4, fixes all the issues, and they love it.

I have always wondered if when they go "t4" they fix all the boost/exhaust leaks because everything is brand new, which is part of the previous problem and now why they have zero issues.

I have never met anyone that has not had some sort of boost/exhaust leak when having turbo issues. If they ever stop by the shop it takes me about 5 min to find a leak (usually they have multiple leaks). These 15-20 year old truck parts will leak and go bad. It is funny because the most common thing I hear is "wouldn't I notice if I had a boost/exhaust leak"?


I just don't see it being possible that the performance of the box 38r can vary so much... it has to be tuning, health of truck, or leaks. But that is just a theory.

I've checked manifolds, Uppipes, Intake Y Oring, replaced boots-hairspray and all. Pulled plenums, cleaned EBP sensor-I know what exhaust leaks look like. MAP sensor is reading correctly from what i can tell. IPR duty cycle is normal, ICP can hold 3000+. If i throw it in my all out tune itll pull 40 psi. What else can i look at?
 

lariat 7.3

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Its funny you mention this. I have been pondering this same thing.

I have never met anyone that has not had some sort of boost/exhaust leak when having turbo issues. If they ever stop by the shop it takes me about 5 min to find a leak (usually they have multiple leaks). These 15-20 year old truck parts will leak and go bad. It is funny because the most common thing I hear is "wouldn't I notice if I had a boost/exhaust leak"?

.

If i can come by and you find this issue in 5 minutes I'll buy a turbo on the spot:joy:
 

KCTurbos

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If i can come by and you find this issue in 5 minutes I'll buy a turbo on the spot:joy:

Not trying to sell a turbo... just saying that a lot of guys don't think they have any leaks, but never really test for leaks.


I had a guy recently that had his truck at the shop MANY TIMES and they kept blaming the turbo and assuring there were no leaks. They kept "replacing parts" but never actually checked for leaks. That is the problem I see the most is people just "look for leaks" instead of "testing for leaks"


An easy way to check for exhaust leaks would be to have someone stick the truck in drive, hold the brake, and give it some gas. Mash the pedal to the floor and hold it as hard as you can without causing the truck to move (5-10 seconds). Look for any smoke coming out from behind the turbo. If you see any smoke then you need to find and fix the leak. It is best to be running a race tune and just MASH the throttle, then when the tire are about to spin let off and try again. You want to product black smoke if possible because it is easier to see.

Best way to check for boost leaks is the use a "boost leak tester" and pressurize the intake side. Make sure everything is connected up (turbo to intercooler to motor (some people make the mistake of of just leak testing some of the system)
 
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KCTurbos

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I wanted to state I am not trying to start anything. I know how these threads can get out of hand so quick.

It is just so weird how people can have such drastic results with the exact same turbo... when that happens it leads me to believe it is not a "turbo problem".


Just to throw this into the mix. I know guys who had perfect running trucks with a 38r and loved it. Went t4 because of all the recommendations and ended up disappointed. Slower spool, no extra power, and no difference in egts. Just seems weird.
 

lariat 7.3

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Its funny you mention this. I have been pondering this same thing.

SO MANY people have zero issues with the 38r (or variants of it). Towing with no issues and spools awesome. Then you have some guys that have EGT issues and say it spools like a turd... then they go T4, fixes all the issues, and they love it.

I have always wondered if when they go "t4" they fix all the boost/exhaust leaks because everything is brand new, which is part of the previous problem and now why they have zero issues.

I have never met anyone that has not had some sort of boost/exhaust leak when having turbo issues. If they ever stop by the shop it takes me about 5 min to find a leak (usually they have multiple leaks). These 15-20 year old truck parts will leak and go bad. It is funny because the most common thing I hear is "wouldn't I notice if I had a boost/exhaust leak"?


I just don't see it being possible that the performance of the box 38r can vary so much... it has to be tuning, health of truck, or leaks. But that is just a theory.

I wanted to state I am not trying to start anything. I know how these threads can get out of hand so quick.

It is just so weird how people can have such drastic results with the exact same turbo... when that happens it leads me to believe it is not a "turbo problem".


Just to throw this into the mix. I know guys who had perfect running trucks with a 38r and loved it. Went t4 because of all the recommendations and ended up disappointed. Slower spool, no extra power, and no difference in egts. Just seems weird.


I know, I was just saying I'd buy one right there because i would be so happy. System has been pressurized on the intake side many times. Have also done the smoke test. I read where everyone is so happy with this thing. It runs like a top without a trailer hooked up. I run matts Personal tow/econo file that is the exact same setup 99% of the time
 

KCTurbos

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Just curious at what rpms are you having "egt" issues? Locked in OD at 60mph going 1700rpms?
 

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