GEM module

lincolnlocker

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how do you tell what one you need or can try in order to rule out if it went to hell or not?

my dually, as some of you know, has been on a 2yr menstrual cycle and im running out of ideas to try and fix her..

voltage drops below 14v and as low as 12.1 while driving after 45 min to an hr so there is a severe draw somewhere... jimdawg185 has been messing with her. he even put a custom alternator on her and it still draws the hell out of it..

here are the specs on the alternator.. it should burn her to the ground if the draw doesn't get found..
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6.0 Tech

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Stupid question, but have you tested whatever batteries you are using while testing? Maybe you have a shorted cell or something?
 

lincolnlocker

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Stupid question, but have you tested whatever batteries you are using while testing? Maybe you have a shorted cell or something?
the batteries themselves that where in it where diehard platinum P2s agm but i am not sure if jim did a load test on them when they where actually charged.. jim put his XS powers in it now and the same thing is happening.. it still pulled that alternator down to 14v.. that alternator is a bad mofo too.. so something is very wrong... lol

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Bluke

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Only thing I can think of is glow plugs that draws that much current without burning up. Maybe unhook you gpr.
 

sootie

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the batteries themselves that where in it where diehard platinum P2s agm but i am not sure if jim did a load test on them when they where actually charged.. jim put his XS powers in it now and the same thing is happening.. it still pulled that alternator down to 14v.. that alternator is a bad mofo too.. so something is very wrong... lol

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did you change whatever Seth Davis advised?
 

sootie

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what was that and who is that?

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They are a sponsor, company is Ted Davis auto sales and they run a super duty boneyard. I think he is out of West Virginia and his screen name is something like Co04bra

He was saying in another one of your threads that he had a similar instance and it was the fuse panel and something else? Going from memory here...
 

lincolnlocker

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They are a sponsor, company is Ted Davis auto sales and they run a super duty boneyard. I think he is out of West Virginia and his screen name is something like Co04bra

He was saying in another one of your threads that he had a similar instance and it was the fuse panel and something else? Going from memory here...
oh ok. thats where the idea of taking the gem module off of the top of the inside fuse panel came from and why i am inquiring about how to tell what one i will need and one just to try and where to get one from..

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ClassicIDI

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As far as I have been able to tell all gem's 99-2001 are physically the same however the programming is different depending on your options. To get a used replacement you need to find a truck optioned the same as yours. Door locks, power windows, manual or electric shift 4x4. If you get the wrong one it can be programmed to work but only by an IDS. I tried with my AE and it kinda works but not really. I converted my truck to floor shift 4x4 and always had soft codes. Was in AE one day and noticed an option to turn that off. Bam it worked and no more 4x4 shift relay codes.....my power windows and door locks also stopped. Hooked up IDS and went through module install programing and now I have no 4x4 codes and all my power stuff still works.

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lincolnlocker

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This sounds like it could be a cause. Could be for some strange reason your GP relay is kicking on.
i have checked that with a meter.. first thing i checked when it drops so low.. nothing across the posts.. kicks on like normal and off after timeout.. i have put 4 known working good alternators on it one right aftrr another.. all charge above 14v then as they heat soak, slowly drop to 12ish volts... the alternator jim put on shouldn't drop a bit.. it puts out more amperage at idle then the oem do at full song...

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lincolnlocker

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Are the batteries still draining down when sitting?
dont know. jim got busy and hasnt messed with it and i haven't been back home enough to mess with it either..

i know that is what needs to happen to rule it out or see if that is the culprit..

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Bluke

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Have you tossed an amp clamp on it while driving to see what is happening when your driving?
 

boggerr

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Do the volts actually drop while you're driving or after warmed up at idle? When it does drop does bringing up the RPMs raise the voltage output?
 

lincolnlocker

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Have you tossed an amp clamp on it while driving to see what is happening when your driving?
no
Do the volts actually drop while you're driving or after warmed up at idle? When it does drop does bringing up the RPMs raise the voltage output?
it will slowly start to drop after it is up to temp while driving.. it is 45 minutes from my family farm to jimdawg185 house and by the time i got there, voltage was below 13v... it is the same on every known working alternator i tried and it still does it with the fancy custom high output one jim put on it.. but that one only drops to high 13s-14v... but i also dont know how long jim drove it when that happened..

as if right now, it needs tested without the gem in and im not home to do so and jim is very busy right now and cant mess with it..

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Arisley

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As dumb as it sounds, try pulling off the engine ground straps and cleaning the block and the straps. It might be some corrosion that conducts fine when cold, but becomes more of a insulator when it gets hot. Sounds stupid, might be stupid, but who knows.
 

lincolnlocker

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As dumb as it sounds, try pulling off the engine ground straps and cleaning the block and the straps. It might be some corrosion that conducts fine when cold, but becomes more of a insulator when it gets hot. Sounds stupid, might be stupid, but who knows.
well, there is prolly less than 1k miles on a fresh rebuild and i did check to make sure they where tight.. i dont think its corrosion..

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Magnum PD

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My alternator is getting hot! As in can't touch after a few minutes of running. Not sure what's causing that.
 

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