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  #11  
Old 10-24-2020, 01:39 PM
JohnT24 JohnT24 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by co04cobra View Post
Dear lord. Someone should take that video down so people are not trying to do it that way.

There is also a gasket at the front he didn’t replace doing it that way. Take the whole thing out complete. I use a press when I reinstall end caps but there are numerous ways to do that.
I hear what your saying.

but on the other hand, It DOES look like the only thing (or the main thing) that leaks on these is the rubber O-rings.

I've actually seen a few videos where they left the front housing in place....

right or wrong...
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  #12  
Old 10-24-2020, 01:58 PM
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79jasper 79jasper is offline
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Do you want to do it right? Or wrong?
Don't forget, you need to drain the coolant first.

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  #13  
Old 10-24-2020, 02:31 PM
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CTC DEEZUL CTC DEEZUL is offline
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I don't understand. I said the entire thing slides out in minutes. Do it all. Lmao
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  #14  
Old 10-24-2020, 03:15 PM
JohnT24 JohnT24 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTC DEEZUL View Post
I don't understand. I said the entire thing slides out in minutes. Do it all. Lmao
just thinkin out loud keep yer pants on...

I did glance in there today to look at the front mount bolts...
looks like you can get to them through the left wheel well....

cleaning the gasket surface looks like the challenge.... spec'lly when you have andre the giant hands,,
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1995 F-350 XLT
DIY intake
EV2 gauges
Diamond eye downpipe
Gutted cat
E-Fuel
  #15  
Old 10-24-2020, 03:18 PM
JohnT24 JohnT24 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTC DEEZUL View Post
I don't understand. I said the entire thing slides out in minutes.
when you "slide it out" are you pulling it all out towards the back?

straight out the back?
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1995 F-350 XLT
DIY intake
EV2 gauges
Diamond eye downpipe
Gutted cat
E-Fuel
  #16  
Old 10-24-2020, 03:43 PM
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Drop it, twist it and pull out towards the back. A razor blade for the block mounting area and green scotch Brite for aluminum front cover and your all good.
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  #17  
Old 10-24-2020, 08:59 PM
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Patrick Feeley Patrick Feeley is offline
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JMHO: Use Ford/Motorcraft O-Rings and gaskets only. Don't use aftermarket parts. Too many horror stories of them not sealing. Also, since you have a 95 it probably still has the oil cooler/filter header adapter where the filter bypass valve (spring/washer/disk under where the filter screws on) and the oil pressure regulator valve (on the block side of the adapter) are simple "staked" in. The valve parts can fall out, and in the case of the regulator, may not be noticed. This will usually can a no start due to low oil pressure feeding the HPOP reservoir. Cheers!
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SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
  #18  
Old 10-25-2020, 08:29 AM
JohnT24 JohnT24 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Feeley View Post
Also, since you have a 95 it probably still has the oil cooler/filter header adapter where the filter bypass valve (spring/washer/disk under where the filter screws on) and the oil pressure regulator valve (on the block side of the adapter) are simple "staked" in. The valve parts can fall out!


Hmm
I will keep an eye out for that.

So these parts are on the backside housing. The oil filter housing...
Behind the gasket?
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1995 F-350 XLT
DIY intake
EV2 gauges
Diamond eye downpipe
Gutted cat
E-Fuel
  #19  
Old 10-25-2020, 10:41 AM
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Patrick Feeley Patrick Feeley is offline
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Yes. The regulator parts are on the backside of the filter housing. The bypass valve can be viewed when the oil filter is removed. The early trucks as can have these parts just fall out. They updated the housing later to hold the parts in with snap-rings. On my 94, I had the bypass valve parts fall out and noticed them when I changed the oil and found some of the parts in the oil pan. I ended up getting the updated adapter at $139 (they are stupidly expensive now). I mentioned the regulator valve as many folks don't realize that they are there and lose those parts if they fall out unnoticed. Cheers!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Filter Bypass Valve.JPG (164.4 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg Reg Valve1.JPG (192.5 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg Reg Valve2.JPG (149.8 KB, 20 views)
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1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
  #20  
Old 10-25-2020, 11:04 AM
JohnT24 JohnT24 is offline
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Great info, thanks for the pics.
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1995 F-350 XLT
DIY intake
EV2 gauges
Diamond eye downpipe
Gutted cat
E-Fuel
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