2012 6.7 shudder/ miss been going on for 10k no codes.

Idahopwrstroke

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Reaching out online since I have exhausted my local options and keep coming up short. 2012 f-250 6.7 ******d at 28k with mini max ran great for 40k miles and then it started. Medium throttle felt like a bump in the power at around 10 psi boost and was more noticeable at lower rpm, like 1500. Got progressively worse and started having a rattle under low load and during shifts at slow speed. Changed left bank injectors suspecting a bad mechanical component in an injector. Seemed better for about 3500 miles and came back. Truck runs perfect when cold and as drive time wears on it gets progressively worse. Warmer temps seem to be causing worse symptoms. Replaced passenger bank injectors, no change. I have returned to stock program and it of course shows exhaust fault etc. but problem still persists with stock program and reduced power driving.Put tune back in. Truck puffs black smoke when symptoms are present like a fuel issue, but when given full throttle it runs super strong still. Running around 24 psi max boost under full throttle, boost doesn't fluctuate when symptoms are present but when it is worst the RPM will flutter. No codes, and idles smooth. Unhooked inlet air temp sensor just to check if it was throwing odd voltage, set a code and ran the same. Can't believe it would be a cam position sensor without throwing a code. Local dealer won't even look at it with it ******d, not impressed.

Please someone have an idea for me to try
 

Idahopwrstroke

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After the last ditch of changing tunes the problem still persisted and I got angry and started yarding around on wiring. Got the truck to shudder at idle when moving wiring around the fuel rail pressure sensor. Turns out there was a wire that had internal damage and was slowly failing and as the number of strands decreased over time the problem began to manifest itself. As the wiring warmed up the resistance in the remaining few strands caused incorrect readings from the fuel rail pressure sensor. I ended up having to cut the pigtail out of the harness and rebuild it by taking the connector apart and resoldering the wire to the termination inside the connector and then soldering the three wires back into the harness. An unbelievable amount of frustration for the end fix. Yes, the damage to the wiring was from the wreck that caused the pickup to be totaled at 16k miles but it took that long for the wires to fail inside the insulation.
 

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