Oil And Grease Questions

jimdawg185

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Thats what i was afraid you were going to say.

I want to be frank. I am a super anal, super focused lubrication guy. I will always error on the side of caution. I know additives like Rev x and Archoil do the things that the manufactures say they do. But I wouldn't even add those to my oil. I am sure they are fine, but again, I am super anal about that stuff. I treat our engines the same way I treat my 40 million dollar turbines.
 

Isobaric

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Isobaric, I will dedicate a thread just for the add packs. I don't think I can do it justice with just a quick response, but I will try real quick...
I will check back when you get to the add packs.
Curious as to your opinion of calcium v. magnesium v. alkenyl v. barium, etc dispersal and soot control additives.

Is the email in your signature a good line of communication for ordering L.E. products?
 

psduser1

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Have you ever tested Schaefer conventional 15/40, jim? Everybody recommends the synthetic, but I can't justify it yet in our equipment, just curious about your opinion on a competitors oil.
I will say their support seems pretty decent, but I've had some trouble getting the info on additive packages, of course.
 

cbf9703

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I want to be frank. I am a super anal, super focused lubrication guy. I will always error on the side of caution. I know additives like Rev x and Archoil do the things that the manufactures say they do. But I wouldn't even add those to my oil. I am sure they are fine, but again, I am super anal about that stuff. I treat our engines the same way I treat my 40 million dollar turbines.

Are there any additives you would add? Under what circumstances?
 

jimdawg185

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[email protected] is the best way to connect with me during the day Isobaric.
Ill get to the rest of the questions in a bit as im on the road in a blizzard currently.


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jimdawg185

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Have you ever tested Schaefer conventional 15/40, jim? Everybody recommends the synthetic, but I can't justify it yet in our equipment, just curious about your opinion on a competitors oil.
I will say their support seems pretty decent, but I've had some trouble getting the info on additive packages, of course.

I have tested their oil. It is a good oil, no doubt (our 8800 performs just a bit better). You won't get answers from oil companies about add packs most of the time. The best way to see how the packs perform is to test them over the life of the oil. After you have seen a few hundred oil analysis like I have you start to pick up on the nuances and how they effect the engines over the long term. Synthetic is not always better. It cost a lot to get the add packs to work well in a full synthetic, and most companies don't put the money into esters and what not to get it to work properly. In my large fleets we use our non synthetic oil (8800) and go 60-80k between changes (or more). The hydrogenized mineral base stocks pair better with the add packs without the extra chemistry. Then the extra money can be spent on the base oil.
 

jimdawg185

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No, not really. Unless you are saving thousands, it is just better to change the oil. If you pay for the performance up front, then you shouldn't have to add anything. And if the oil runs out, its already too late. Always change good oil!
 

bigrpowr

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this is prolly one of the coolest threads ive seen in a while.

with the LE , what are your recommended intervals with a standard street truck that see's no offroad. does that interval change with the performance of the motor ? is the LE a synthetic ? i can send you a sample of my motorcraft break in oil , i was figuring i would look at it for bearing material or glitter as well send one to black stone . just to be sure my bearing wear upon break in was normal.
 

jimdawg185

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Go ahead and send it to me, ill get Polaris to run the gambit on it.

Intervals are tricky with modded engines. I run my tuned and deleted 6.4 to 25k, and it still has lots of life left. The important thing to remember is you always want to change good oil. And, filters should still be changed at 5k. The best way to identify a good PM is analysis every 5k until you get a good idea how the oil reacts to the abuse. The oil isn't really what I would be concerned about in a PM though, its fuel and soot..

LE has both very high quality group 2 and 3 mineral and group 4 PAO base stocks. The oil i sent you is a full PAO synthetic base stock. There are very good reasons for both, I personally lean towards synthetics when the oil might get over 250 for a sustained amount of time. Severely Hydro Cracked Base stocks are better in many ways though. VI is nearly as good, with much better additive compatibility . Ive ran both and never really noticed a difference except the mineral base stocks seem to hold their add packs longer, but shear a little quicker with high fuel dilution and or heat. Synthetics also do better in the cold.


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