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Old 04-12-2018, 10:22 AM
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Default Fuel Filter &Water Seperator Addition

I added an auxiliary fuel filter and water separator in front of my factory water separator on my 2014 6.7. I used factory style quick connects I found online so this is easy to remove if needed for some reason. I went through many ideas and designs before I was happy with the location. I wanted it tucked up inside the frame rail so it is protected. I have included a parts list with part numbers, where I got them, and what it cost me.

Parts List
-Baldwin Fuel filter Base #FB1311 $20-Amazon
-Donaldson Filter & Water Separator #P553207 rated 99%@ 3 microns and 95% Emulsified Water Removal $23.48-Amazon
-Female Quick Connect 1/2 x 1/2 Nylon, Straight #FQC8 $10.00-Vulcan Diesel Performance
-1/2" Male Quick Connect x 1/2" Pushlock #MQC8PL $10.00-Vulcan Diesel Performance
-RaceFlux 1/2" Hose Barb to AN10 O-Ring Adapter Fitting x2 #OB-10-08 $7.90x2-RaceFlux
-225 PSI Rated Fuel Injection Hose approved for Diesel & Biodiesel x6 Feet #NBH H351A $6.29x6-NAPA Auto Parts
-High-Pressure Clamps x2- I had these left over from a previous project, Got them from NAPA they were around a few bucks a piece.
-Custom L Bracket made from 1/8 inch cold rolled steel, Dimensions are
7x7.5x4 inches $40-Local Machine Shop
-3/8x1inch bolts x4 $.50x4 Ace Hardware
-3/8 Lock Washers x4 $.15x4 Ace Hardware
Total Cost Approx $160.00
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 00001IMG_00001_BURST20180317151135.jpg (976.1 KB, 110 views)
File Type: jpg quick connect.jpg (21.8 KB, 101 views)
File Type: jpg connect2.jpg (18.1 KB, 89 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20180317_150941.jpg (1.61 MB, 100 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20180411_140146.jpg (1.13 MB, 88 views)

Last edited by hawker25; 04-12-2018 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 04-12-2018, 10:24 AM
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So first I found where I wanted to mount the bracket. There is a stud with a nut on it that is just behind the factory water separator that makes a perfect mounting point. I really liked how it was close to the factory setup and protected up inside the frame rail. You do have to trim a plastic stud back to the frame rail so the bracket will sit flush. The 7.5 side of the L bracket goes over the top of the frame rail towards the interior of the truck.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20180412_084603.jpg (1.46 MB, 122 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20180411_140146.jpg (1.13 MB, 88 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20180411_140141.jpg (1.25 MB, 81 views)

Last edited by hawker25; 04-12-2018 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 04-12-2018, 10:32 AM
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After getting everything marked and drilled I installed the filter base to the bracket using 3/8x1 bolts with lock washers from Ace Hardware. I then Installed the fuel line from NAPA. This is high-pressure hose. Don't cheap out here and get the stuff that costs half as much. This line can be up around 100 psi and will blow that cheaper line apart. Also if you get high-pressure stuff from somewhere else make sure it is rated for both diesel and biodiesel. Many places I talked to would tell me their hose was diesel rated but had no idea about bio-diesel. This is not the place to save a couple of bucks to trash a $10k system in my opinion. The part number I gave from NAPA is rated Diesel, Biodiesel and up to 225 psi. I used the 2 high-pressure clamps on the raceflux fittings. The other fitting were pushlock and did not need them.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20180411_182917.jpg (1.39 MB, 117 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20180411_183046.jpg (1.45 MB, 117 views)

Last edited by hawker25; 04-12-2018 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 04-12-2018, 10:42 AM
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After everything is installed and tightened up, cycle your key to the on position for approx 30 seconds for but do not crank the engine. This will run the pump for 30 seconds. Look for leaks. Cycle the key 6 more times for 30 seconds a piece without cranking to fill the filter and line with diesel. Start the truck and let it idle for 3 to 5 minutes to make sure no air is in the line. Keep checking for leaks. The truck may idle a little rough at first start but if it continues to recheck your work for air leaks in the system.
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Old 04-12-2018, 10:47 AM
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This was a fun project for me, between designing how everything would fit together and hunting down all the pieces I thoroughly enjoyed doing this. I feel like I have greatly improved the quality of fuel going through my system as well. Feel free to ask any questions and I will try to answer the best I can.
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Old 04-12-2018, 11:45 AM
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Great write up thank you, been looking at doing this with not a idea of how or where to start so now I can order up and get it done! Awesome job!
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Old 04-12-2018, 03:25 PM
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Looks good. 3 mic is a bit tight pre pump aint it?

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Old 04-12-2018, 05:16 PM
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If you are ever in AL or VA I'm buying you beer.
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Old 04-12-2018, 05:47 PM
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I haven't had any problems with fuel delivery yet. Im running GDP Banana Smoothie tune. I plan on changing the filter every 10K. I will report back if anything changes over time.
Glad you guys like this. I just couldn't bring myself to spend $700 dollar for a kit that I knew I could make. I also didn't like that the kit you can buy is outside the frame rail. That being said I think it is a quality kit and does a great job, I'm just one of those people that likes to make stuff.
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Old 04-13-2018, 01:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawker25 View Post
After getting everything marked and drilled I installed the filter base to the bracket using 3/8x1 bolts with lock washers from Ace Hardware. I then Installed the fuel line from NAPA. This is high-pressure hose. Don't cheap out here and get the stuff that costs half as much. This line can be up around 100 psi and will blow that cheaper line apart. Also if you get high-pressure stuff from somewhere else make sure it is rated for both diesel and biodiesel. Many places I talked to would tell me their hose was diesel rated but had no idea about bio-diesel. This is not the place to save a couple of bucks to trash a $10k system in my opinion. The part number I gave from NAPA is rated Diesel, Biodiesel and up to 225 psi. I used the 2 high-pressure clamps on the raceflux fittings. The other fitting were pushlock and did not need them.
So, just being kind of needy here but you wouldn't happen to have to dimensions from center of hole to center of hole? I'd need both ways though haha x being the holes in my crudely drawn diagram

X---X and
|
X


I run a laser at work so it be easier for me to make a program to cut the holes same time as cutting the bracket before having a guy at work bend it up for me.
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