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  #131  
Old 04-08-2017, 03:13 PM
NotbrettboatIswear NotbrettboatIswear is offline
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Originally Posted by Strokersace View Post
You're double doses of dipchit, no matter how many user names you create. You continue to still be a phuck tard and derail threads with your bill chit and misinformation.

So keep proving my point.
You actually started this. If it wasn't for you and you alone, I would have never gone this far. Now I'm just trolling and the admins here refuse to actually do anything. All I have to do is make a post and you're butt hurt.
  #132  
Old 04-08-2017, 03:32 PM
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Strokersace Strokersace is offline
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Keep playing the victim. You did this to yourself on PSN and acted the same way. I called you out on it, and now you're butt hurt.

You keep proving my point though. Keep it up. Multiple personalities but be a heck of a problem for you. Off your meds or your mommy didn't let you sleep with your sister?

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  #133  
Old 04-08-2017, 04:20 PM
NotbrettboatIswear NotbrettboatIswear is offline
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How'd you know?
  #134  
Old 04-11-2017, 11:59 AM
RBernardi RBernardi is offline
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Hey Ace or anyone else for that matter, I'm wanting to run 35's on my 97' when to swap is done. Right now my doner truck sits higher in the back. Do you guys think I could with a 05-07 leveling kit, and my 2" body lift that is already on my OBS? Also with a leveling kit will I need drop down radius arm brackets? Or do the stock ones still work?
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1997 f250 HD ccsb, 140k idm, diy e-fuel, diy intake w/6637, 3.5" dp, 5" exhaust, 6" superlift, 2" bd lift , 35" Cooper discovery a/t's on 16" alcoa's, 2007 lariat interior.
  #135  
Old 04-11-2017, 12:36 PM
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Strokersace Strokersace is offline
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Originally Posted by RBernardi View Post
Hey Ace or anyone else for that matter, I'm wanting to run 35's on my 97' when to swap is done. Right now my doner truck sits higher in the back. Do you guys think I could with a 05-07 leveling kit, and my 2" body lift that is already on my OBS? Also with a leveling kit will I need drop down radius arm brackets? Or do the stock ones still work?
Depends on how far you want to go with it.

On my obs, I ran 5200 lb front coils, and could barely fit 33x12.5s. This was with a 9" wide -12 offset rim. The tread was very close to the rear corner of the fender when turning on flat ground and if there was any suspension flex, it would make contact. With a factory 2" rear block, b code SD springs, and velvet ride shackles my rear end was approx 1 1/2" higher than the front. However it looked more level than a "leveled" pickup that often looks nose high (to me).

What size is the factory rear block in the doner? And front spring rate?

With your body lift, you'll have extra room. If you want to keep it, 35's may just work with a stock spring and maybe a small bottom coil spacer. If so, no drop brackets will be needed.

If removing the body lift, you'll definitely need 2.5" leveling coils (or spacers), adjustable track bar, and either a 3-link setup or arm drop brackets.

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  #136  
Old 04-11-2017, 01:15 PM
RBernardi RBernardi is offline
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Originally Posted by Strokersace View Post
Depends on how far you want to go with it.

On my obs, I ran 5200 lb front coils, and could barely fit 33x12.5s. This was with a 9" wide -12 offset rim. The tread was very close to the rear corner of the fender when turning on flat ground and if there was any suspension flex, it would make contact. With a factory 2" rear block, b code SD springs, and velvet ride shackles my rear end was approx 1 1/2" higher than the front. However it looked more level than a "leveled" pickup that often looks nose high (to me).

What size is the factory rear block in the doner? And front spring rate?

With your body lift, you'll have extra room. If you want to keep it, 35's may just work with a stock spring and maybe a small bottom coil spacer. If so, no drop brackets will be needed.

If removing the body lift, you'll definitely need 2.5" leveling coils (or spacers), adjustable track bar, and either a 3-link setup or arm drop brackets.

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I haven't looked at the front coil rating yet, the has a 2" block. I'm planning on keeping the body lift.

On craigslist near me there is a set of Icon 6" coils pretty cheap, sounds like I need those, along with drop radius arms, drop down pitman arm, adjustable track bar, and bigger rear blocks. To clear 35's. Anything else?
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1997 f250 HD ccsb, 140k idm, diy e-fuel, diy intake w/6637, 3.5" dp, 5" exhaust, 6" superlift, 2" bd lift , 35" Cooper discovery a/t's on 16" alcoa's, 2007 lariat interior.
  #137  
Old 04-11-2017, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RBernardi View Post
I haven't looked at the front coil rating yet, the has a 2" block. I'm planning on keeping the body lift.

On craigslist near me there is a set of Icon 6" coils pretty cheap, sounds like I need those, along with drop radius arms, drop down pitman arm, adjustable track bar, and bigger rear blocks. To clear 35's. Anything else?
That would EASILY clear 35's! That's essentially an 8" lift. You could probably clear 40s with that lift.

With your body lift and a 2.5" leveling setup, 35's would be good. Once your front is set, then you can figure out what size block in the rear you'd need.

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  #138  
Old 04-11-2017, 02:57 PM
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Kedstrokin Kedstrokin is offline
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Originally Posted by Strokersace View Post
That would EASILY clear 35's! That's essentially an 8" lift. You could probably clear 40s with that lift.

With your body lift and a 2.5" leveling setup, 35's would be good. Once your front is set, then you can figure out what size block in the rear you'd need.

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I was just wondering what size lift I would need when I do this swap. I want to run 22x12 with 35s. Will a 4.5" lift work or do I need to go with a 6"?
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  #139  
Old 04-18-2017, 04:08 PM
Addicted4 Addicted4 is offline
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What adapter are you guys using for the rear brake line from the obs to the ad line?
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