6.4 cylinder lip

Got a 08 6.4 that I've noticed has some pretty good crank case pressure once warm. I pulled the motor to install studs and a single turbo, thinking I would have to replace a cracked cylinder as well. None of the cylinders are cracked, I've cleaned and thoroughly checked each one. The one thing I did notice was a decent lip at the top of each cylinder but after pulling one piston I noticed there wasn't any lip at the bottom of the cylinders. Also the truck has had *** and egr for all its 265000miles. Dont wanna have to bore it and get all new pistons but maybe I have to. I guess it's either blowby or valve seals, lmk if there is anyway of telling or if you have any advise.

Thanks

While it's down that far, I would go ahead and bore it and do new pistons. Nothing worse than doing 90% of the job and crack a piston 10k miles later. Been there, done that.

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x2.. I just dropped my 6.4 block off at the machine shop last week. After not doing bore / pistons last time it was apart 30k ago.

at 265k miles, you are probably due for a refresh. I would do the rockers, lifters, pushrods, etc while it's apart too.

Alright, thanks for the replies.
Ordered a full rebuild with .30 over pistons.
Is there anything else that needs or is worth upgrading?
Like I said, I'm running a single S369SXE ungated.

powerstrokeboss said:

Alright, thanks for the replies.
Ordered a full rebuild with .30 over pistons.
Is there anything else that needs or is worth upgrading?
Like I said, I'm running a single S369SXE ungated.

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Go with maxforce 7 pistons not stockers. Unless you want to do it all again.

Ya, I did, not doing this all over again!
Just wondering about valve train upgrades and if it's worth the money.

If your in there just have the heads checked for cracks, they are known for that. Besides that valve train upgrades like Springs and pushrods is always a good thing. Of course studs and maybe a cam and new upgraded lifters like hylift Johnson it funds allow.

There’s bot that much more work to tear the whole engine down and bring it all to the machine shop if you have the heads off.

Good choice on full engine IMO. Do maxxforce 7 pistons. Have the heads and block surfaced, made flat, and have the heads checked for cracks. Do new lifters.

Alright,
getting the block machined, the heads are within tolerance. Got new rockers and lifters.
odawg intake
arp rod bolts

-are there any other bolts on the motor that are tty or one time use that i should replace?
-is it worth oringing the heads or is a properly machined surface with studs good enough for about 700hp?
-also lmk if you know of any tuners that have some experience with single turbos, that is willing to tune a 6.4 with no "muffler" obviously for offroad use only:naughty: im not having much luck.

powerstrokeboss said:

Alright,
getting the block machined, the heads are within tolerance. Got new rockers and lifters.
odawg intake
arp rod bolts

-are there any other bolts on the motor that are tty or one time use that i should replace?
-is it worth oringing the heads or is a properly machined surface with studs good enough for about 700hp?
-also lmk if you know of any tuners that have some experience with single turbos, that is willing to tune a 6.4 with no "muffler" obviously for offroad use only:naughty: im not having much luck.

Click to expand...

Since you have it apart, and especially since you are single turbo, put a cam in it. My favorite of all the different ones I’ve used is a Colt Stage 2. Make sure piston protrusion is on the low side of factory spec, and that valve recession is to the deep side of factory spec, when you assemble the motor.

Harmonic balancer bolts and rear crank hub bolts are TTY. You can buy factory bolts for about $4 each, and you probably only took the harmonic balancer off, or ARP’s for about $150.

Flat deck, flat heads, factory or Mahle gaskets, and ARP head studs torqued correctly will be sufficient for 700hp.

Don't even consider a can without valve reliefs