First start after injectors and delete

swinky · Oct 19, 2014

webb06 said:
Have you calibrated your torque wrench lately? Not busting your balls but we have no troubles with 26,so far.....LOL

32 is just fine, it's what many of the top shops recommend

swinky · Oct 19, 2014

I barred mine over with a 1/2 inch ratchet right on the crank pulley.

04stroker · Oct 19, 2014

webb06 said:
Have you calibrated your torque wrench lately? Not busting your balls but we have no troubles with 26,so far.....LOL

Snapon tech wrench gets checked for calibration every few months. Many shops use 32 just like I do.

06-sixoh · Oct 19, 2014

Sorry for the typo. I meant 30 ft lbs for the injectors.

I used an 18mm socket on an half inch breaker bar. Latched onto the bolts inside the pulley bolted to the harmonic balancer. It was a pretty easy crank. I turned it CW, and only got two turns on the pulley CCW. I tried to turn over with the alternator, but the belt eventually slipped. They are brand new belts.

Does anybody have any recommendations on a starter? Im looking at BPD's alternator, mainly because i know BPD makes pretty a pretty good product, and its only $30 more than O'Reilly's. Not sure if its any better. I might just buy local so i can have it same day. Im taking a break on this thing. Its burning me out for sure.

Like i said before, im going to try and keep this thread updated for future "searchers". Thanks for all the advice gents.

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Stroked777 · Oct 19, 2014

Ok so the engine is turning over that means it's not hydro locked. When you do start it it could smoke a bit both white and black. My next step would be to check over connections. Like under the ficm. You said it was just did a build so check and make sure all your grounds are attached too

06-sixoh · Oct 24, 2014

Ok, update.

Three starters later, i got the truck started. Built oil psi on the second crank, and fired on the third.

Everything seems to be tunning fine, as far as I can tell. But one thing. It wont build boost. It starts to at 3000 rpm, but thats it. Previous owner had run a red wire off the turbo harness, im guessing some kind of smoke switch maybe. I took that off, and using a connector, spliced the wites together. Thats the only thing ive did.

I finally blew the hose connected to the turbo on a hard acceleration. Any thoughts? Ive got my guy coming over monday to take a look at this thing with his IDS

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Stroked777 · Oct 24, 2014

Those boots blowing are common. Just clean them up real well or get new ones, the lack of boost can be from a boost Leak. I would check for leaks. I believe dieselsite sells both a leak detector kit and new boots

06-sixoh · Oct 25, 2014

Yea, im not really worried about the boots. Im worried about the boost issue. I will track down some leaks tomorrow.

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04stroker · Oct 25, 2014

How much boost is it building? Has to be building a fair amount to blow the boot off.

04cr450 · Oct 25, 2014

06-sixoh said:
Sorry for the typo. I meant 30 ft lbs for the injectors.

I used an 18mm socket on an half inch breaker bar. Latched onto the bolts inside the pulley bolted to the harmonic balancer. It was a pretty easy crank. I turned it CW, and only got two turns on the pulley CCW. I tried to turn over with the alternator, but the belt eventually slipped. They are brand new belts.

Does anybody have any recommendations on a starter? Im looking at BPD's alternator, mainly because i know BPD makes pretty a pretty good product, and its only $30 more than O'Reilly's. Not sure if its any better. I might just buy local so i can have it same day. Im taking a break on this thing. Its burning me out for sure.

Like i said before, im going to try and keep this thread updated for future "searchers". Thanks for all the advice gents.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have bpd's starter and is really a nice piece... but.. its not a bpd's starter, it is a nsa starter, google the starter and u can save just about $100 by purchasing it somewhere else other than bpd lol as far as an alternator, nothing beats dc power.

06-sixoh · Oct 25, 2014

Alright. So we found a break in the harness going to the vgt solenoid. Got that fixed. Once we fixed that, we tried to start the truck, and it wouldnt build oil psi. *face palm* So we are letting it cool off so we can get it fired up and see where i am loosing oil psi. Dummy plugs, stand pipes and IPR are brand new. Im really hoping I dont have an HPOP issue.

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Stroked777 · Oct 25, 2014

How long did it run for before? Possible it still has air in the system

06-sixoh · Oct 27, 2014

I drove it for maybe a mile. I had the IDS hooked up to it, and it wasnt reading any injectors psi.

Im so burned out on this truck, im considering selling as is. I dont really want to put anymore money into. How much do you guys think a broke 6.0 would go for?

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04stroker · Oct 28, 2014

You have to do a fair amount of driving or hard accelerations to work the air out of the system after start. Until you do that you si have long sometimes 30 second starts since air is still present. So put it through a couple good cranking cycles if you haven't already and see if it starts.

06-sixoh · Oct 28, 2014

Im not sure if you guys understand. I have an IDS hooked up to the truck. There is no injector PSI. No oil PSI.

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Stroked777 · Oct 28, 2014

Well either you lpop **** the bed or you have no oil in the pan

06-sixoh · Oct 28, 2014

LPOP for the injector PSI?

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04stroker · Oct 28, 2014

I do understand exactly what you mean did you give it a good couple 30 second cranking cycles and watch it and it never came up at all? Or did you just crank 5-10 seconds and stop?

sootie · Oct 28, 2014

not having icp can be air in the system. is there any low pressure oil?

also-if you unplug the icp sensor does anything change?

06-sixoh · Oct 28, 2014

I unplugged the ICP and nothing changed. I killed the batteries twice after it ran for a minute. They were long cranks for sure.

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