fuel pumps OEM,Carter,Airtex,etc.
- Thread starter Decker
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shmoozer
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I'd try cracking the bowl on the 6.7 pump. I didn't have to when I installed mine, but I'd give it a shot.
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Zmann
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O-rings
I don't need no stinkin
O-rings
LOL
I don't need no stinkin
O-rings
LOL
03_PSD
Member
Awesome, will be looking forward to seeing whats involved!!
So overall this is a very easy job if someone wants to do this.
I started off by disconnecting the fuel lines to the 6.0 fuel pump let them drain into a 5 gal bucket. Next I drop the skid plate and drop the tank. For tank disconnected the filler neck at from the bed and then break free the hard tube from the rubber on the tank. Next I drop the tank with about 1/4 tank still in there. This is best done with 2 ppl. One lower the jack and one to steady the tank. Once you lower about 6-8 in you can reach up top and disconnect the fuel lines and plug for sending unit.
Once drop the tank, elevate up and use the pilot hole in hole saw for sump to drill a hole to drain the tank. There a spot just below the sending unit. On bottom of tank there a spot that that has a circle and seems to be a good spot for sump. But don't use that go in front of it and use the flat surface. 1/4 of fuel is about 2 five gal buckets. Once fully drain use hole saw and drill rest of hole for sump. After Open the top of the tank and clean thoroughly to make sure.you get all the plastic. Next clean bottom of the tank with scotch bright and sand paper. Install the sump. For the sending unit I cap the original return line and now use the old feed line as my return. I took the tube and bent it backward and to the left away from the sump. Then I reinstalled sending unit. I used a 1ft 3/8 hose to old feed hard line. From the 3/8 hose I installed a 3/8 to 1/2 double barb.
Reinstall the tank. But wait on the skid plate till the end just in case you have leaks.
That was the hardest part.
Now remove old pump and lines. Also remove the adapter the the fuel bowl. Once everything out of the way install the m14 to 8 an adapter to the feed port on fuel bowl and the m16 to 8 an adapter on return port. I used teflon on the 8an side and installed the 90 degree 8an to 1/2 in barb to both. Next I took orange paint and painted the threads on the 6.7 mounting bracket. I placed mine just behind the transfer case inside the frame. I used the paint to mark up where I needed to drill my holes. After you drill holes mount pump. If the bracket doesn't have nuts you can use the old 6.0 pump nuts.
After everything install all the 1/2 line.
Wiring is very simple. I used a jegs 30amp pump relay kit. I install my relay under the hood next to my driver side battery where my air filter used to be. Run the 10 gage red wire to circuit breaker to the positive side of.the battery. Grey to a good known ground. Yellow I believe was to switch power. Cut the old plug off the old pump make sure its the 12v wire and solder it together. If you cut the wif sensor wire it won't work it only supplies 4-5v. Lastly run the purple wire to the 6.7 pump. I used a female wire connector to connect to the pump. Also run a ground wire from the pump to a good known ground. Solder everything but shrink tube and wire loom all wires under the truck. I believe right prong in 6.7 pump is the power and left neg.
It should only take couple of turn of the key to prime the system. Do not start just turn and let pump build pressure. Oh don't be a dumb ass like me and forget to put o ring on 6.7 pump cap or it won't prime. Once prime crank her over and look for leaks.
Im sure I'm forgetting things but if have any questions pm me I'll be happy to assist.
Whole thing took about 5 hrs if don't have any leaks or priming issues.
I started off by disconnecting the fuel lines to the 6.0 fuel pump let them drain into a 5 gal bucket. Next I drop the skid plate and drop the tank. For tank disconnected the filler neck at from the bed and then break free the hard tube from the rubber on the tank. Next I drop the tank with about 1/4 tank still in there. This is best done with 2 ppl. One lower the jack and one to steady the tank. Once you lower about 6-8 in you can reach up top and disconnect the fuel lines and plug for sending unit.
Once drop the tank, elevate up and use the pilot hole in hole saw for sump to drill a hole to drain the tank. There a spot just below the sending unit. On bottom of tank there a spot that that has a circle and seems to be a good spot for sump. But don't use that go in front of it and use the flat surface. 1/4 of fuel is about 2 five gal buckets. Once fully drain use hole saw and drill rest of hole for sump. After Open the top of the tank and clean thoroughly to make sure.you get all the plastic. Next clean bottom of the tank with scotch bright and sand paper. Install the sump. For the sending unit I cap the original return line and now use the old feed line as my return. I took the tube and bent it backward and to the left away from the sump. Then I reinstalled sending unit. I used a 1ft 3/8 hose to old feed hard line. From the 3/8 hose I installed a 3/8 to 1/2 double barb.
Reinstall the tank. But wait on the skid plate till the end just in case you have leaks.
That was the hardest part.
Now remove old pump and lines. Also remove the adapter the the fuel bowl. Once everything out of the way install the m14 to 8 an adapter to the feed port on fuel bowl and the m16 to 8 an adapter on return port. I used teflon on the 8an side and installed the 90 degree 8an to 1/2 in barb to both. Next I took orange paint and painted the threads on the 6.7 mounting bracket. I placed mine just behind the transfer case inside the frame. I used the paint to mark up where I needed to drill my holes. After you drill holes mount pump. If the bracket doesn't have nuts you can use the old 6.0 pump nuts.
After everything install all the 1/2 line.
Wiring is very simple. I used a jegs 30amp pump relay kit. I install my relay under the hood next to my driver side battery where my air filter used to be. Run the 10 gage red wire to circuit breaker to the positive side of.the battery. Grey to a good known ground. Yellow I believe was to switch power. Cut the old plug off the old pump make sure its the 12v wire and solder it together. If you cut the wif sensor wire it won't work it only supplies 4-5v. Lastly run the purple wire to the 6.7 pump. I used a female wire connector to connect to the pump. Also run a ground wire from the pump to a good known ground. Solder everything but shrink tube and wire loom all wires under the truck. I believe right prong in 6.7 pump is the power and left neg.
It should only take couple of turn of the key to prime the system. Do not start just turn and let pump build pressure. Oh don't be a dumb ass like me and forget to put o ring on 6.7 pump cap or it won't prime. Once prime crank her over and look for leaks.
Im sure I'm forgetting things but if have any questions pm me I'll be happy to assist.
Whole thing took about 5 hrs if don't have any leaks or priming issues.
